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just throwing this out there. for multi gun there is a different set of rules. therefore I don't believe that the 2 inch rule applies.

If you could post more pics, that would be awesome. I'm not sure if I want to take the time to machine it is the problem.

Where in Eastern WA are you?

He must be posting from his phone. Mine does that too. Is the actual rest part of it just tapped and bolted on? Think I could get a pic of it? Also, on the back side of the flat panel, do you have to have machine out a section to clear the slide? I'm fairly sure that's how it works.

Well, as it happens, I get to keep my pistol. She just gets a brand new custom open pistol.

as with all good peer pressure, try it, you'll like it. try out a few and see what you like.

I don't know the powder very well, but I'm going to assume it's not that hot. The only real answer I have is really just a guess. That your extractor got stuck on the case and kept the case from moving correctly once it hit the ejector. You might check your extractor hole to make sure that it's clear from debris that would keep it from flexing appropriately.

is this a 9 or a 38? It looks like the case wasn't able to clear coming out and pushed it sideways. Was it a really hot load?

It is fun when you hit that point. It can be hard to get into some days. I got in a rut and didn't get back into that for about a year. But, when it's there it's magic. But, occasionally you will need to think about what you are doing on a more complex stage. It gets really cool when you can think about where you are moving to, but your shooting feels like autopilot. Only gotten that a couple times.

Why is it a problem with it not going to slide lock? If this is for USPSA, you really shouldn't ever get to there. If it's IDPA, I have no ideas on that as I've never shot it. But, I find it's always easier to reload before slide lock. What you are doing, though, is riding the slide lock with your thumb. I do this all the time with any pistol without a thumb safety for me to ride on. You can correct your grip, or just not worry about it.

My Fiance realized, after I had her shoot it, that my open gun was the best choice for her. Basically, although it is a big pistol, the trigger can be short and shooting minor the gun doesn't recoil at all. albeit it is loud, but that can be corrected easier than getting someone to shoot a higher recoiling pistol. Just my experience.

Just put your finger where you feel comfortable and work from there. If you have to change your trigger finger to shoot faster, you are missing the point of shooting fast. Don't spend time changing your joints, just shoot comfortably. YMMV.

There are some very good tips in that video. Thanks for sharing it.

that is rough. i ro also, so i take my mags off. but im shooting open with 3 big sticks (really large hands, easier to reload with) so i can't fit them in my pocket. the ro probably should have noticed that though.

Look into a freedom gunworks custom. their open builds start at 2600. So, you could have something like a trubor or steelmaster for 2600. Add 300, that's a number of customizations. It will come with a better trigger, and be a much nicer gun all around. When I talked to them last, they were about 4 months out.

I think this would end up being part of the ranges SOP's (standard operating procedures) USPSA rules don't dictate that a spectator can or can't have a loaded firearm on them. Being that it is concealed, you can't see it, so you can't do anything about it anyway.

The basic answer is, though, because the WSB did not state a hand position while creating a new start position, then you are free to do what you like. There is a reason every classifier WSB explicitly states the start position.

How did you finish up the copies? I was looking at doing that.

Again, you can get 200 grain jacketed bullets in 40. With the right powder, almost no sound and no recoil. It's a lot of fun if you can find the load. I have a 357 that I loaded to major with 158 grainers. Almost no recoil. But, I'd just ignore it. I'm assuming that, if he's doing this, he's not in any danger of winning the match.

It really depends on what you want to do with it. I used to shoot glocks, but I find the 2011's much nicer. Trigger pull is easier. They do have a tendency to feel slower. Like Benny said, though, a light 2011 with a nice trigger is unbeatable. Shoot an edge back to back with a custom built and lightened 2011 and you will understand. There's just no comparison.

Just for some thoughts, I've seen people load 45acp 250 grain bullets. You only need 660 fps to make major. With a 230, you're only at 717. It doesn't take a whole lot for the heavy bullets. If he's shooting a 200 grainer, which a lot of people do in 40's, it's only 825. You're looking like 3.5 grains of titegroup to make major. So, they sound and look soft, but they make major.

Chrono generally doesn't take too long. But it does take people. Pull a bullet and weigh it. The rule book has the exact way to do it per the rules. Just out of curiosity, what is he shooting? You can get some real bunny fart loads that make major with a heavy enough bullet.

5.6.1 In the absence of official match chronograph(s), the power factor declared by a competitor cannot be challenged.

That is true. The only parts of the sight that aren't warrantied are the body and the glass though.

To go down in class you must: 1) request in writing to be moved down, citing your reasons and justification; 2) have a club president or SC concur with your request in writing; and 3) have no current scores on record that indicate you should remain in your assigned class So, once you are in a class, even if your percentage goes down below your current class, you SHOULD have to petition to go into a lower class.