JasonS

Thanks guys. An EGW 'U' die is mounted on a single stage press to size the brass for reliable functioning in a tight match barrel chamber. This brings up an excellent point. I am primarily shooting a High Performance Edge, with a match barrel. I was having problems, with my first attempts at reloads, which I think I narrowed down to over crimping. The new rounds seem to function (by hand) without any issue. (Range trip tonight to verify that.) My HK, eats this stuff with absolutely no issue. The STI however, seems to be much more picky about tolerances. Anyway, this makes me want to ask a new question. Should I be doing anything else special, for operation in my STI? When you use the U-die in a single stage, do you still use the Dillion die in the progressive, or do you remove that station? Thanks again, Jason

So after playing around with finding the cause on my Dillion 650, and after reading through a whole bunch of threads in the Dillion equipment sub-forum, I decided to ask yet another probably dumb question. It appears that my Dillion 9mm sizing die is causing some slight coke bottle deformity near the base of my brass. It's not a horrible amount of deformation, and the rounds will pass a case gauge check and cycle in my gun, however being new I am unsure just how acceptable this is? The brass going into the sizing die looks good, with no deformities. The sizing die causes a slight bulge near the base (about 10% up), (or maybe it would be more correct to say, that it doesn't narrow the brass all the way to the bottom, since I believe that's what is really happening?) that slight deformity is retained as the round proceeds through flaring, powder, bullet insertion, and crimping. Additionally, I'm pretty sure that the sizing die is properly installed having read both the instructions and watched the installation video multiple times. A previous thread, mentioned that the Dillion resizing die is not tapered, and that this would cause what I'm seeing. Also alot of other people (from thread research) seem to be using different non-Dillion resizing dies, like the EGW. So I guess this all leads me to a couple of questions. 1. Is deformity (coke bottle like shape) acceptable / expected when using a Dillion sizing die? (Or am I doing something wrong?) 2. Is this how that die is expected to operate, and why? (Since I wouldn't have expected the deformity to be optimal.) 3. Should I be using a different sizing die to solve this issue, and if so which one? Thanks, Jason

Thanks for all the help guys. The problem was apparently a shallow set sizing die. It's working like a champ now. I've also tightened up the crimp a tad, based upon suggestion. Thanks again, Jason

I'll resize the crimp so that it's smaller. That's not what would cause the brass to narrow like I'm seeing, is it?

It double posted. Sorry.

Some responses to the questions: 1. The rounds that fail the case gauge will not cycle into the barrel (by hand) through my Brazo's STI. The will however cycle (by hand again) in my P30L (which I guess is alot less picky.) Regardless I'm doing this to shoot my STI, so it's an issue. 2. "None" of the rounds fit into the case guage backwards. They all stick at the crimp, and won't go in regardless if they go in from the front or not. Maybe that's telling? (I guess I'm a little fuzzy, on exactly what "should" happen if you load a round into the guage backwards, and I couldn't find the answer on the internet to avoid the stupid question.) 3. I was not previously deburing or using case lube. 4. The dies I am using are straight from Dillion (3 of them) and they came with my 650, that BE helped me order. Station 1 has a sizing/depriming die. 5. The brass was once shot factory, that I shot myself in my STI. It was Remingtom UMC 115g FMJ rounds (the big yellow box) prior to being reloaded. 6. I just bought the Berry's/Titegroup to practice reloading with really, I have a whole big box of MG 147s and N320 just waiting but didn't want to start using that recipe till I had at least some experience with what I was doing. Thanks again guys for all the help. Jason

Go easy on me, I'm still new at this. Finally got my 650 up and running, and all calbrated right (or so I thought). However on my first bulk run, I loaded 228 rounds, and 32 of that failed the case gauge. The receipe is: 9mm, 124 gr Barry's 3.9 gr Titegroup, 1.13 OAL, WSP on mixed (99% mine, all once shot in a STI) The rounds that fail, appear to have a "coke bottle" shape narrowing, around 80% of the way up the brass, or just under the crimp. These rounds however pass an OAL check. Dia at the crimp: .380 (correct) Dia at the narrowing around 80% up the brass .378 (should be .391) Dia max near slight bulge 25% up the brass: .394 (should be .391) This leads me to a couple of questions. Is there an easy answer to what I'm doing wrong? I wasn't using case lube when I reloaded these: should I be, for 9 mm? Is it possible this could be an artifact of not "tweaking" the bullet seating straight enough when I settle the bullet onto the brass? Any suggestions or thoughts, to get the failure level down? Thanks Jason

Just finished my first attempt, at reloading some 9mm (about 25 rounds) on my new Dillion 650. (I'm new at this.) Anyway, todays dumb question is: What would be the maximum expected OAL and charge load variation to be considered acceptable? For example, on my OAL's with my fancy new digital calipers, I'm seeing variation +/- 0.0065" when aiming for a 1.13" OAL. Min: 1.1235" Max: 1.1365" Similarly, I while calibrating the powder load I noticed a +/- 0.1 gr change in charge, when aiming for 4.0 gr. Min: 3.9 gr Max: 4.1 gr Does this sound about right for tolerances, or do I need to do some more calibrating on my 650? The load recipe was: 4.0 gr Titegroup 124 gr Berry's RN 1.13 OAL. Mixed Brass WSP Thanks, Jason

I haven't found anyone, who states they've shot that load in my gun. Most everyone seems to be running Glocks. I am using a High Performance STI Edge in 9mm, and occassionally a HK P30L. The STI will be the prime (practice) gun, I'm reloading for. Jason

I've been trolling through the forum, looking for different MG 147 loads using VV N320. (Including, one "epic" thread on the subject, from last year.) Mostly people seem to be operating between 3.4 and 3.7 grains of VV N320, with OAL's between 1.125" to 1.15" I was planning on starting low on powder, probably 3.3 or 3.4 grains, and long on OAL, probably 1.15". That sound about right? Jason

Let me just caveat that I'm new to reloading. Anyway after some research in this forum, and because it seemed popular, soft shooting, and clean, I decided to order up some VV N320 powder, to load some low recoil minor 9mm / using MG 147 CMJ's and WSP's. Well in an effort to be thorough I tried to validate some of the loads I've seen in this forum against several reloading handbook loads for 9x19. Unfortunately, "none" of the books I've checked show any data for N320, and even the Vihtavuori website, only lists "1" N320 load for > 145 gr. What am I missing, why isn't N320 listed for all of the heavier bullet types even in the Vihtavuori documentation? Where should be looking to validate 9x19 max load data for N320? Thanks, Jason

Thanks for the explanation!

So I'm just getting started as a reloader, my first bench should arrive later this week, and I'm psyched. Anyway, during my research on the different types of loads for 9mm, (so I can start buying components) I came upon a tidbit of information that seemed counter intuitive to me. Many people (on this forum) have been reporting that JHP bullets are more accurate than CMJ type bullets. While I don't doubt these reports, I'm struggling to make sense of the physics for "why" this would be, since the CMJ bullets just "look" more aerodynamic. Some research on the subject (got to love Wikipedia), uncovered this: A cavity in the nose section has the effect of lightening the bullet's forward section and shifting the center of mass towards the tail of the bullet, to give an improved ballistic coefficient, greater down-range velocity retention, and greater resistance to deflection by crosswinds. I also stumbled across a post that said the JHP bullets utilized more case volume, which equated to higher pressures and velocities. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=104369 So my question: Which is this the real reason? Does bullet center of mass, affect accuracy more than aerodynamic structure at these velocities? Or are people comparing apples and oranges, because the JHP velocites for similar powder loads are higher, likely increasing accuracy at higher distances? (Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm new at reloading.) J

That's awesome. Exactly what I think I'm going to end up doing. Thanks for showing me that! Jason

Thats a very cool gun! Anyway, back to my original question, as a left handed shooter, I would need to mount that on the other side of the frame. Are there any scope mounts, that wrap around the gun to allow thumb rest mounting on the other side? I know, I could probably have something milled, I was just wondering what other lefties were doing. I'm guessing the lefties are drill and tapping the right side, to add a left handed thumb rest? I don't have an open gun yet, so no pictures. I'm in the process of getting ready to buy one however (my first),and I want to make sure I have all my bases covered on what options I want in the build, so I don't get caught off guard by something after paying that price tag. (I'm primarly looking at a Brazo's SC, I have one of his HP Edges and I love it.) Jason

I went to my first USPSA match today, the one EERW suggested. It was pretty awesome, to watch all you guys shoot. I've been shooting alot at my local range, hopefully in preparation that I don't make a fool of myself when I shoot my first match. Mostly I've just been doing accuracy on longer shots, while I've been waiting for the left handed holster I ordered. (Going on 2 months wait now.) After watching today though, I'm wondering how the heck do you guys practice for that? Is there really anything other than dry fire in your basement? It's not like I can walk from stall to stall at the range at my gun club, shooting one handed while carrying a briefcase. (Well, not without raising a few eyebrows anyway.) Or is just going to competitions every weekend considered the practice? Also are there any "competition" themed classes around Colorado I should consider taking? Thanks Jason

I'd like to give it a try. Anyone have any input, on how to mount them left handed? Will it require extra drilling on the frame? Thanks, Jason

Another open division gun question! (I'm in the process of building my first open division gun, and I'm trying to solidify in my mind exactly which options I want it to have before spending as much as these guns cost.) Which leads me to my next question. Thumb rests, to use them or not to use them? I got to take a good look at a top end shooters open division gun, at the range today. One thing he advocated was the use of the thumb rest, to ensure a proper grip on the gun. (Actually the way he put it was more in line with the "same" grip every time.) Anyway, from reading Brain's book, there's a chapter where he states that he does not touch the gun with either of his thumbs, and merely points them in the direction of fire. In line with that thinking, so far I've been endeavoring to not touch the gun with my thumbs when practicing with my limited gun. Thus the quandry. Is it better to use a thumb rest, or no? (Or is it simply another preferential thing, that I will have to try out?) It seems to me like there would be a possiblity I would push the gun off target laterally if my thumbs had that kind of leverage. On the other hand, I can see where having some vertical leverage could quicken recoil recovery. So I'm left handed, and I'd like to know where can I get a C-more mount, that will allow a left handed thumb rest? Will the frame have to be drilled on the "right" side for that to work, or are there mounts that will wrap round, to allow right sided thumb rest placement? Thanks, Jason

That's a nice gun! It sure looks to me like weak hand side, slide racker is the way to go from a speed and utility stand point. I'm looking right now at getting a Brazo's Custom SC, but so far I've been told that the left handed configuration for the slide racker is not available. Is it safe to assume, that if the slide is notched for a right handed slide racker, that modifying it to left handed wouldn't be difficult? Something on the order of a soft mallet and a left handed replacement racker, or am I missing something subtle? Next newbie question up: thumb rests! (But I'll open up a new topic for that one.) Thanks for the input guys, Jason

Do the lefties that are running open with a slide racker, have it installed on the right handed side (pistol left side facing out) or the left handed side (pistol right side facing out)? I can see that having it on the right handed side, would be quicker for an empty magazine table pickup, but it seems (being left handed) that I would get more benefit from having it on the left handed side, for normal usage. Which side do you prefer, and why? (Also as a follow up, if there are any left handed slide rackers out there, where did you get it?) Thanks, Jason

Couldn't find any information on the Aurora Gun Club web page. What sort of competition will it be? Thanks, Jason

I'd love to come watch, what time does it start? Jason

Hello everybody! I'm new to competition type shooting, and I've been practicing regularly (mostly live fire accuracy drills) for the last couple of months in preparation for my first competition match. In pursuit of that goal a couple of months ago, I bought my first STI 2011, a Brazo's HP Edge, and wow what a pistol, since then pretty much every one of my production (DA) pistols has found it's way to the "retired" shelf in the back of my gun safe. The addicition is still spreading, and lately I've been spending all my time researching open-division guns, wanting to try that next step. What a steep learning curve it continues to be, to progress from an average defense oriented shooter to "competitive" themed shooting. Luckily this web site has been extremely helpful! I found this web site, after I had finished reading Brian's book, and after much research, I just recently ordered from Brian my first Dillon press an XL650 (to help offset my ammo costs), so I'm also a new reloader! Well that's a little bit about me. I'm looking forward to participating in the sport! Jason