JasonS

My 2 cents is that the gunsmith setup, fit, and trigger matters more than a few ounces from going short, or long on the dust cover. Also probably want to consider 5 versus 6 inch, if you search around you will see a lot of debate on the pros and cons of either. Then you have to consider how much you want to spend, and how long you're willing to wait. You could start out with a base Edge or Eagle, from someplace like http://www.dawsonprecision.com and have it tuned, or you could order a custom gun for some (or a lot) more money. To name a few popular gunsmiths: http://www.sviguns.com/ http://www.freedomgunworks.com/ http://ccgunworks.com/welcome-to-cc-gunworks.html

I think so, I couldn't access it for about 15 minutes. I was using my phone at the time, so until I read this, I was blaming AT&T.

There's a good review here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=39332&st=0&p=1569293&hl=hornady&fromsearch=1entry1569293 I've never owned the Hornady, but I own a 650XL that I bought from Brian right off this site, and I can't say enough good things about the Dillion, or Brian's customer service!

Here's a motivational picture for you.

STI Trojan, from either Brazo's or Dawson. If you search on it, you'll find this question gets asked and answered a lot.

The overhead flourscent light for my reloading bench shares a gang box with my case feeder. My lights also tend to flicker for each case that passes over the microswitch. I've assumed it was due to the motor's inductive load. Happens on both high and low speed. It annoyed the hell out of me at first, but I've learned to ignore it after a year. Wow, My 650 case feeder doesn't do this at all, and if it did, I think it would freak me out. If you have some sort of power inrush or grounding issue on the case feeder motor, that is large enough to fluctuate your AC source power on that circuit, you should probably look into that.

I had a shadow on my C-more that I couldn't get off with normal cleaners. As a last ditch effort before just replacing it, I tried a few of these tips. I started with Hoppes #9 applied with a Q-tip, and while that seemed to help, it didn't solve my problem, so I tried TSP and hot water, applied with a Q-tip, and that worked like a charm! Perfectly clear glass again, thanks for the recommendation!

http://adriansundeaddiary.com/ Pretty decent read, if you like zombie stories.

My pet 9mm minor load, for a STI Edge. 3.5 gr VVN320, 147 MG CMJ, 1.125 should put you close to 129 PF

I'm left handed, and I had the same problem with my 1911 Trojan where my thumb would occasionally contact the button end of the slide release lever, and when this happened it would sometimes cause the slide to jam. (I don't have this problem with the 2011's which have the slide release situated much more flush.) I bought a second EGW slide release (just in case I screwed it up) and then milled the end of the slide release down (just a tiny bit) so it was flush with the frame, but still flat for full lock up on the slide. When I need to break it down, I just use a pin/punch. Problem solved, it's working great for me. (I don't have anywhere to post images, but I could email you a picture of it.) Jason

I am a new open shooter and I started with 9.8 gr under MG 124 JHP for 171 PF. The 105 only sells in 1 lb jugs and is expensive, it however seems to produce alot of gas, but has more straight back recoil then some other powders. I recently switched to IMR 7625 at a friends recommendation and like it better. My 2 cents.

I'm using the Wilson 47FX, mags in my Trojan 40. You can get them right here from the Enos store.

I do exactly that, usually use a Brazos cyclone button. I've not had any problems hitting it on accident, seems to work well for me.

I agree, the problem is I didnt realize I needed another powder funnel / powder die, until my fancy new open gun arrived, and I finally needed to actually load ammo for it. I had figured I would dissassemble my 45 caliber conversion that I don't load very often, and configure it for 38 super. The problem ofcourse with that plan, as I found out late last night, and hadn't planned on, was that the powder funnel is completely wrong. So I dissassembled my 9mm configuration in order to get some rounds rolling through the 650. I'll likely end up ordering another powder measure assembly, so I don't have to screw with it when I change calibers, but I'm itching to shoot my new open gun NOW! Thanks for the help guys. Jason

I think that answers the caliber conversion option question. (Different shell plates for super, and supercomp, I hadn't realized this so thanks for the clarification.) I'm only loading 9mm and super at the moment, so the first question is the one I really need answered. Is the powder funnel, and powder die the same between 9mm and, 38 super). I'm pretty sure they are, since I loaded up 100 rounds last night, and it seemed to work fine. As I understand it, the die is not caliber specific, but the funnel is, and since the diameter is the basically the same between 38 super bullets and 9mm bullets (.355 for my MG's), this would seem to be sound logic. I'm just hoping someone can verify my thinking here. Thanks Jason

Quick dumb question. Is the powder funnel and powder die, on the 650, the same for 9mm as it is for 38 super? (If so, why are there two seperate options for ordering caliber conversion kits, for 9/38 super, and 38 super comp? I thought the difference in the two shells was related to the case rim?) Thanks, J

Going back to the original post, I'm surprised no one mentioned the HK line of pistols. As a lefty, the trigger guard magazine release, and fully ambidextrous slide release, is one of the best feeling guns to run. However most left handed people are going to be just as fast, using right handed controls. (Also, I'm not sure about the higher end HK's but the trigger on the P30 model, leaves alot to be desired.)

3.8 gr of n320 to make 130 Pf with 147 gr mg? Sounds hot to me.

+1 for this: You will not regret your purchase of a Dillon 650 from Brian Enos. I skipped right over the 550, and went straight for the 650, and I have no regrets. Purchasing it from Brian, was awesome, he was very helpful getting me setup as a new reloader.

Thanks, that's what I thought. And sorry, this post had to be moved, I had meant to put it in this forum, but started it in the other forum by accident. J

I have a dumb question about hard cover on a comstock stage. If you have partially obscured hard cover targets (black paint), and fire 3 shots at the target, such that two are alpha scores and one is fully or partially in the black hard cover, do you still get penalized for a miss on that target?

+1 Most people at matches pre-load from a partially full/full magazine, remove it, and insert the full magazine they want to use.

You can get a chromed tuned Edge for 2200, new. http://brazoscustom.com/sti_guns/edge_plus.htm I've been calling around along the gulf coast to anyone who might carry an STI Edge so I can go handle it before making a final decision and one of the shops I called that no longer sells guns calls his friend who calls me. I'm sure you could find someone with one, at any local USPSA match who'd let you look at it, but honestly I wouldn't hesitate to recommend buying a Brazo's HP Edge new, I love mine. J PS. Just popped on classifieds. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=128869

I'm currently using MG 147gr CMJ's with 3.5 gr of VV320, at 1.125, and I'm getting good results.

Welcome! If you're talking about the Sunday match in Aurora, see ya there. Also this is a good website to figure out when the matches are around Colorado. http://www.ecouspsa.com/ Regards, Jason