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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

davsco

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Everything posted by davsco

  1. yep that's the allure of LO, nice 2011's and much less expensive factory ammo, less noise also. i'm showing about $455/k for reloading 38 super using new brass. about $100-150 less than Atlanta. i welcome any cost savings if anyone sees any. obviously picking up brass would help.
  2. seems a much better idea than mounting the rail to the barrel nut. i have one and also a mega with the flange, solid.
  3. an open gun is just a regular 2011, with a comp on the barrel and a frame-mount for the optic. and of course hotter ammo so yeah it will get a little more beat up. other than that all the parts are pretty much the same. no magic or mystery. you're not going from a ford escape to a top fuel dragster - same form factor and pretty much same internal and external parts going from a basic 2011 to an open gun. infinity or whomever will give you mags or tell you what to use. i've never had to adjust lips or the like, just like you apparently haven't in your staccato. the biggest thing you're getting with a custom open gun is more meticulous form, finish and fitment and the ability to pick the parts and settings you like based on your experience.
  4. just buy a buttload of ammo that will last you a couple of years. and over every year, add to that. an 'open' gun isn't going to be much more prone to issues than any 1911 or 2011. sure you have higher pressures and we've heard of comp and frame cracks. but 'normal' stuff like ejector and extractor are relatively easy to replace yourself. you can even ask the builder for fitted extras of those as you buy the gun to make any fix/replacement even easier. someone will let me know if i'm wrong, but 38super/comp should be a little less pressure than 9 major so a little easier on your gun. i will say that reloading isn't all that bad. though it isn't significantly cheaper than just buying loaded ammo, at least for 38 super and prob also supercomp. i've been buying new unprimed brass so avoiding all the cleaning/tumbling mess and hassle. not to mention finding a couple of 38 brass in a sea of 9mm brass at the match isn't so easy not that i'm good enough to tell the difference but reloading vs factory ammo lets you narrow down a powder charge that works best in your gun.
  5. i've been doing 9mm / 38 super pistol for a couple years. somewhat confused on the bigger hunting rounds such as 6.5prc and 300wsm etc. 'bumping' the shoulder, trimming before or after, etc. i ran out and bought some dies, so many options, not sure if these are the best or what even makes them the best 300wsm redding type s match 6.5 creed - redding type s bushing 6.5 prc - rcbs matchmaster fl b set any input appreciated, thanks!
  6. brand/model of hammer puller recommendation? thx!
  7. https://www.brazoscustom.com/knowledge-center maybe relocated in this page, if not just email them
  8. i'm only familiar with blue bullets, and only in the past year or so.
  9. in my essentially limited optics 9mm 2011, i'm shooting 135 blue bullets with 3.3g titegroup. only outside so far but have noticed no smoke at all.
  10. for those that chose "tumble," i'd appreciate hearing your process and materials. little to no chance of detonation?
  11. i'm using new starline 38 super brass and it sticks a little on the powder nipple as well as the crimping die. was hoping with new brass (and not depriming and sizing) i wouldn't need lube, but with it catching, powder is bouncing out of the cases. spray lube in a bag and i did a couple hundred almost smooth as butter. it really hasn't caused any problems but still i'd prefer it go away.
  12. i generally try to wipe it off with a rag when i remove the rounds from the hopper and place them in the chamber checker. but that doesn't get it all off and i've noticed a little buildup in the mags, but no issues.
  13. yeah that 10.2.1 is confusing. later it says "any object completely outside the fault lines may not be used for support." i actually emailed dnroi a few years back and it seemed the 'touching' related to standing (feet) and then the sentence above related to leaning, resting or the like. if we weren't allowed to inadvertently touch outside walls, then again, the sentence above wouldn't be needed as if we used it for support we would certainly be touching it.
  14. i thought 10.2.1 allowed incidental touching, but not using outside walls as support? if the walls are giving way, are you actually using them as support? one thought, some of the local matches set wall posts in 5 gallon buckets filled with concrete, maybe that will work at an indoor range where you can't stake them to the ground. and/or put the walls (or barrels) far enough away from the shooting area that they can't be physically reached/touched.
  15. this is in a multigun sub forum, and every 2/3 gun match i've done def has FTE (FTSA in uspsa speak) penalties.
  16. i'd try to not skip anything, those will get failure to engage penalties which are normally pretty painful. at least give every target a shot but don't go to war on anything.
  17. not sure if they sell just the frames, but think staccato (prev STI) has lite options for the c2 and p models.
  18. went down to florida for a month and didn't really forget, but severely underestimated how many uspsa matches were available. brought my 38 super open gun so not like i could hit academy or basspro for more ammo...
  19. Couple of guys use some very effective cans in 2 gun and you really have to get the timer in there to catch the last shot.
  20. i generally shoot a stage from left to right so that when doing any reloads (right handed pistol shooter) the gun is somewhat naturally pointed downrange. also for 2 & 3 gun i use a retention (hood) holster.
  21. yeah i generally clean my 2011's after every match. the oil/dust/sand/carbon ends up being a rubbing compound which certainly doesn't help the tightness of the gun.
  22. hit a uspsa or idpa match and see what the women and smaller guys are shooting. most if not everyone will let you fondle their gun after the match.
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