nhjeffs

My 320 is waiting to be picked up at UPS from a trip to Grayguns. I'm looking forward to see how improved the trigger is.

I think the deal with the brigadier is the dovetail sights.

The extended firing pin block is the next thing I need to do. I'm getting maybe 1 light strike every few stages.

When I fit mine, I noticed that it was hitting the sharp corner of the sear leg. I did some filing on the bottom of the leg but concentrated on rounding the front of it.

I took everything out of the room except the furniture. I ran a magnet over the floor. I found the spring in a partially unzipped compartment in my backpack. I couldn't have thrown it in there if I tried. I fitted one of the CGW T3 discos with the stock hammer installed. The Titan hammer seems to have made the take up on SA a little longer. Anyone else notice this?

I put the Titan hammer on had the sear out for fitting the safety. I went to put the sear back in the cage and the spring slipped and went flying. I can't find it. Now I have to wait to one gets delivered. What a pain in the ass.

I notice that once in a while. I'm going to do a little more work on the disco when I fit a Titan hammer that I ordered.

The same one as you and the other guys. #37, .104" carbide drill.

So I ended up getting one of the TiAlN 0.1040" bits (brand was Monster) and was quite surprised! After hearing all the trouble you guys had with it, I tightened the disco up in my vice with aluminum jaws, chucked up the bit in my cordless drill (1500 RPM) and opened up the hole in no more than 5 seconds! Went back with some 600 then 1500 grit sand paper, and some metal polish on a cardboard q tip shaft. Whole process took me 5 min maybe... Because I was doing it free hand my hole ended up between 0.104 and 0.106, but I'm not concerned. It would have been better on a press but I do not have one at home. The disco flops around completely freely on the pin in the hammer. The factory one was actually slightly snug on the pin. I think the 0.1040" is the right sized bit to go with. I installed it and like many people found I need to do some fitting. BTW, a cut length of cardboard q tip shaft works as a perfect slave pin for test fitting. My plan for fitting it is going to be the following: 1. File the bottom of the wing until the trigger bar is able to drop below it and release the disco/hammer. (Right now it will not) 2. I think only after the first step is done will I consider taking any material off the front of the wing. That will reduce the rearward movement of the hammer on the da pull. I would think you would want that to go as far back as possible without engaging the hammer hooks on the sear. This step may not even be necessary as I've heard from some. 3. Lastly, if I decide I want more pre-travel on my trigger in SA I will remove some material from the back of the main leg where it engages the notch in the middle trigger bar. I'll report back on my experience when I'm done. I made a little jig for the drill press. Works great.

This is very interesting! I bought the CGW RP TRS and put it in my S3 during the first phase of my trigger job. I also though it increased the DA pull weight slightly. The trigger pull gauge supported my feeling. I was actually able to get my hands on a S2 and started moving parts over from the S3 to it, and even feeling the two springs side by side, the factory Tanfo spring feels lighter. I ended up outing that in the spring and leaving the CGW one out. I think we are running into the situation, that yes the CGW spring is a reduction in weight from the factory CZ spring, but the factory Tanfo spring is actually lighter than the reduced weight CGW spring. You need to remember these parts aren't originally designed for a Tanfo, they were instead designed for a CZ. Anyone else have the same experience? BTW, the LRA RP sear spring is in fact lighter than the factory Tanfo spring. It is advertised for Tanfo's though, so that makes sense. Yes. I put the CGW trigger return spring in and my DA pull went up roughly a half pound. I'm going to order a couple extra Tanfo springs and put the original back in.

I have a couple of plastic guns to sell before I can buy another one.

They have a "buy now" for retail. That's awesome.

I bought mine and sent it out to Grayguns. I looked for info on polishing the trigger parts but couldn't find anything.

BSPS is where I bought mine.

I shot a local match yesterday and the gun ran fine. Not one hiccup.

I have the Xtreme light hammer spring installed. I did a little more fine polishing while I had it apart again. DA is 7.5lb and SA is 3.5lb. From what I've read, the #2 pencil test is a way to indicate firing pin performance. The pencil will barely clear the barrels on my M&Ps and I have never had a light strike on either of them. The pencil clears the Stock 3 barrel by at least 12". I'm thinking I shouldn't have any light strike problems.

I just finished the T3 disco fitting. There will not be any short stroking the reset now.

Are you talking about the stock 2 wing disconnector?

I was just curious. "The new internal shape design permits you to improve the single action, but also by repositioning hooks, and interruptor, the double action trigger pull weight has been dramatically reduced." With the way they advertise it, I was just wondering if it has a "dramatic" effect on DA pull.

I finally got my Stock 3 cleaned up and put back together. DP front sight, Xtreme firing pin. Xtreme light hammer and firing pin spring and Tanfo 1 piece sear. DA is just under 8 lbs. and SA is just under 4 lbs. I ran around 300 rounds through it with no failures. Would a Titan or Delta hammer drop the DA any?

See you guys tomorrow.

Same thing happened with my Chase card.

I would be in for a hammer.

My Xtreme pin measures 2.606" on my dial calipers and weighs .232 oz.

I took my Stock 3 to the range yesterday before a match and ran around 400 rounds through it with no problems. At the match, I did have it fail to feed on make ready twice. I'm loading 147 Xtremes to 1.125" oal. I didn't have any failures on the clock.