GlockandRoll

Yeah, and then add in several hundred and six months for gunsmith parts/labor.

Get a MgGlock trigger, i've tried them all I think it's safe to say, and dont think you can get better.. here's a review I did of mine. http://tacticalgunreview.com/blog/2013/03/staff-review-mcnally-trigger-for-the-glock/

The external dimensions will look similar becuase it's (i believe) the largest legal.. but the titan only has flat sides, this has booster nozzel curves in it. Like a negative mold of an egg. Totally different. I've A/B'd it side-by-side with the Titan on the same day, allong with a Cooly.. and it's a slight bit better, but a slight bit louder. The Miculek is my fav for size/cost/noise.

It's not a ripoff of a Titan, totally different design altogether, with booster nozzle radiused ports. I've never seen keep my redot dead center on target before, I mean.. it doesn't move at all. That being said it is loud as a mo-fo, but then again.. so are top fuel dragsters. This is the best IMHO, and the Miculek is the value leader.. again, IMHO.

Damn...

Clark's built me a Hard-Chrome Norinco single stack where the top was bead-blasted and the sides were polished. I shot it in the Texas sun several times and never saw any glare. In fact, about the only time I saw any glare was when I took a picture in low-light and the flash was caught in it. Even my blued guns will do this.

I've had two, a colt delta eliete and then one custom made for me with a 40 slide. It's a pretty rough round. Are you doing this to carry, or for hunting? As far as I'm concerned I think the Glock20 is your best bet - but dig custom 1911's so dont let me talk you out of one; I just wouldnt do it again. If it were me, I'd do a Clark .460 rowland and have two bbl's fited to it, one for .45 for normal play, and then the .460 for showing off

This is going to be fun..

Ransom rests are great if you have a tight slide-to-frame fit, and that's really only for single stacks. Glock's are very accurate, but you cant put them in a rest because they don't rely on a tight slide-to-frame fit. I've got a 9mm P-18 limited Para that shoots magnificently, but becuase it's stainless I could not tighten the slide to frame fit. Careful attention however was used when turning down the BBL, fitting the bushing, and fitting the lugs of the BBL and link pin, etc. It all locks up positively, but still cycles. Off a small rest, I can shoot quality 9mm in a ragged hole at 15 yards, around an inch or so at 25.

i've owned several Clark custom 1911's that were 2" guns, 10 shot groups verified. Some of the "other" 1911 tuners work on tight machine tolerances, but really.. as long as the lugs, hood, and bushing/bbl fit is tight, then you should be good to go. What I like most about the clarks is they RUN, and the accuracy job on just about ANYTHING you send them is only $400 and change.

I've shot thousands upon thousands of wolf steel case .45 230grn FMJ from my clark custom 1911's, my HK USP tactical, and Glock 21, finding suprisingly good accuracy. I've even shot wolf gold line 75grn JHP under 3" at 500 yards from my Mk12 and shot 62grn JHP under at .54 MOA from a shaw 20" 8" twist .223 SS bbl. In wolf I trust.

I tuned up my P-16 at the Brownells 1911 certification course using Dawson BP's and I've found it runs reliably with up to 19 rounds, 20 has caused hickups, so I load 18 for the count. I'd recomend a wolf spring kit.

Did you get it running? If so, what did you think?

Shot one of these yesterday at the Silecners are legal shoot in Dallas on an 18" suppressed larue OBR next to My CBQSS suppressed Mk12. it is my honest opinion that this may be an even better value leader than the SFWA FFP 1.4.

The same distance and type of shooting that they were the other time I wasn't shooting the miller.