huskerlrrp

According to my old invoices I've used the following... SP-01 Shadow, Shadow T and CZ75B Stainless. 019-086 - Sight-Front/CZ 75 Shadow Cut/Optc, .165T x .095W, Patridge, Tools Included Tactical Sports 019-120 - DP Optic Inserted Front Sight for CZ Shadow, .215" Tall x .090" Wide, Match With Factory Adjustable Rear 019-120 There's nothing wrong with CZ Custom's stuff I just like the serrations on the Dawsons. Also your front sight height will vary from what I use and CZ Custom and Dawson measure from different reference points.

I am using the VZ Diamond backs and really like them. I like the stock rubber grips though. Just not as secure for me. Are you looking for a pair? I have some around.

Here's an interesting external link comparing the Baer and some others.... http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=321236

I use the starter punches from Cajun Gun works to get them moved and then replace with their hardened pins.

Sorry I have not checked this thread for a while. The OAL I am loading at is 1.135-1.138. In my G35 KKM barrel with 180gr Precision Deltas I'm at 987 fps (177PF). For some reason I can't find my TS data in my log book. I guess I will do it over again when it comes back from IonBond. Given the assumption that the VV N320 is behaving "linearly"...your load of 4.7gr at 920fps is 195.74 fps per grain. Therefore, 5.0 grains is 977 fps. I think you are in good shape with a margin of error. Then again, I'm a few thousand miles south of you and have nothing to lose.

I've heard mixed comments (not reliable) from Open shooters regarding the CZ Czechmate. I also thought the 38 Super Comp would be a safer round at major vs. a 9mm major and this is unavailable in the Czechmate (as far as I know). The Tanfoglios have similar ergonomics as the CZ's so I thought I'd look into them. For me, mechanical reliability would be preferred over other performance attributes.

Looking for suggestions, opinions, and general experiences on the Tanfoglio Open guns. Should a CZ shooter pursue one or an STI 2011? Are they reliable? What mods should be done? Where to buy them, etc.

5.0gr of VV 320 and a jacketed 180gr works well for me.

Picked this up new off of Gunbroker for a decent price and put a Cajun Gun Works hammer, short disconnector, short firing pin lifter, reduced springs (13lb main, trigger), etc. and changed out the trigger. Also polished the snot out of the action. The trigger is not quite as short and smooth as my Shadow Customs but it's pretty close. The first "Bill Drill" from an IWB hoster was only 0.6 seconds slower than my USPSA rig so I think it will be fine for concealed carry. It was also accurate enough to knock down 6" plates on the Texas Star at 25m. I have some G10 checkered grips and I'd like to do something else with the sights. Other than that, I'm extremely happy with this one.

I'm able to use my CZs in my SIG IWB holsters...for what its worth.

Ok, you guys talked me into it. I mailed my Landsharks and a jug of moonshine out there.

I'm flying out there to shoot Production. How is the soil in the pistol pits? Can I get away without bringing cleats and not fall on my @ss? The less I have to bring the better. Also, is Runza supplying food out there?

I've given CZ Custom a fair bit of my money. I've always been pleased with them. The benefit is their relationship with mother CZ and the availability of parts and the defacto legality of their parts to meet division rules. My only complaint is their shipping costs. Dave at CGW is a nice feller (like everyone mentions). He doesn't have near as many parts available as CZ Custom but he's a innovator and a smaller outfit moving forward. I try to give him whatever business I can. I guess I'm saying you shouldn't go wrong with either choice.

Thanks bud, I should have come to you first for advice on strippers. Strippers? This thread just got a whole lot more interesting

Agreed. I had issues with ejection/stove pipes on a SP-01 Shadow and I changed the ejector angle as described there and never had a problem since.

Picked this up from Stuart at CZ Custom a few months ago. It's a shooter and I love the balance...only wish it had a magwell bevel. The short reset is noticeably quicker than stock disconnector to reset.

I've done the rear strap of an IPSC Standard (old Tactical Sports). The frame is cast steel and they harden it pretty well. I didn't do the front because of the "sweep" above the magwell. I would have had to make a custom tool to get in there to do the vertical cuts, so I gave up and will put grip tape there. In all honesty the grip tape feels more comfortable to me now This was before final sharpening of the checkering. It's getting Ionbonded now...

I have one if you take care of the shipping.

Well done sir!

If you are into experimenting with the SIG triggers, you might try the old style mainspring spur (longer) with a lightened coil spring (also longer). Maybe that's what you are speaking of in previous generation comment? For whatever reason, I had prefered the old style trigger pull before going over to CZs. I can't really tell you why (more linear pull?). However they are a pain in the butt to change the mainspring. I had luck using the full length mainspring spur/spring in my X-Five and P226ST. The cutout in the inside bottom of the grip is the only thing I could see being an installation issue.

I had an IPSC Standard done at CZ Custom. I believe it to be more accurate but cannot prove it scientifically.

I'd go for the burnt bronze. I wanted to do mine that way. I even won a free refinish certificate but the feller won't call me back. Black IonBond for me....

So I need to ask, what are the dryer sheets for? And what kind of sheet are you using, Bounce? I either use left over ones from my wifes laundry or occasionally grab a new sheet of Arm and Hammer something or other.

I buy walnut at the pet store. They sell it for "Lizard Litter", or something like that. A little Nu Finish and some cut up dryer sheets and.....bam!

I've had a set "drop in" on my Shadow. Recently with a Shadow T and the CZ Custom short reset, I had to remove material off of the safety to clear the sear "leg". It's not hard, just go slow with a jeweling file. Continuously reassemble and check as to not remove the function of the safety. Marking the vertical flat of the safety with some Dykem or soapstone and pushing the safety into the sear leg will give you and idea of what sort of material you are looking to remove. If you screw it up, the worst thing to happy is you have to buy another safety. I've done it on a 1911 build. You learn to pay more attention and go slower from the costly mistakes.