Hamma Slamma

You can use some acetone to clean it, then secure the pin in place with clear nail polish, then use acetone again to remove the nail polish. This should not damage the gun in anyway and should only be considered temporary. The following is taken from another forum... "I have seen it happen several times. Production firing pin stops are a tad undersize for the channel that they sit it in being made this way for easy assembly/disassembly. 99 times out of 100 the force exerted by the extractor is enough to keep them in place. Sometimes however it isn't. Several competition shooter install a set screw in the stop and one of the more popular mods to the 1911 is to have an oversize stop fitted snugly to the pistol. Either way works."

I went with an XTR, not that was one of the options however.

If you are going to splurge on an AR, my advice is to go totally custom. For $2k you can build one bad @$$ rifle. What normally happens when you buy an off the shelf Ar is an immediate parts swap. Why not just build what you want how you want in the first place?

Anyone know of a side saddle that will sit on the right hand side (ejection port side) of an 870, probably a 3-4 round side saddle, preferrably made of kydex or other rigid plastic (not velcro and fabric). I check with Tac STar/Parhmayr, but theres are all for the left side "but if you have a left handed 870, you can mount them on the left side instead fo the right." I think the service rep didn't understabnd my question The scenario is my customer has a folding pistol grip stock, which folds to the left (personally I don't like the pistol grip in this case, but it's not my gun), so I can't place a side saddle there. But I checked all my suppliers who have nothing left to offer, so if I am going to have to go "retail" I'm hoping for some suggestions. Any help?

Sign a petition to allow short barrel rifles and shot guns. https://wwws.whitehouse.gov/petitions/%21/petition/lead-way-removing-arbitrarily-designated-short-barreled-rifles-and-shotguns-national-firearms-act/Zc2GTB4c?utm_source=wh.gov&utm_medium=shorturl&utm_campaign=shorturl

Mine totally stock shot low left no matter what I did to steady my aim and not jerk the trigger. I had to adjust the height and elevation and was able to keep acceptable repatable groups. I know it's "always" the shooter's fault. But i don't have that problem with other pistols I shoot, including other XD's I've shot. Using my caliper the sight is darned near perfectly centered, .140" from edge of sight to edge of slide. I didn't quote have to move my rear sight all the way, but it was several clicks to get it where I wanted. I am very interested in finding out what the problem is/was HOA.

Just using the factory stock holster for now. I would think almost any holster with an open bottom for the slide/barrel would work fine.

I read somewhere, i thought this forum, but someone mentioned they used fishing weights and put a spot of cheap adhesive so they could remove if necessary. This is off the top of my head.

Just for general gunsmithing you are going to want a variety of different screw drivers. Always use the closest exact match you can so as not to strip a screw. You are also going to want a good light ball peen hammer about 12 oz. Also a brass and/or rubber mallet. Don't forget the various punches. If you're going to want to work on AR's you are going to need some specialized tools. This would include vise block sets for your upper and lower receivers and a special purpose multi tool made to fix the different nuts, screws, bolts, etc... http://chicagogunsmith.com/catalog/tools-c-280_446.html

There have been a few threads in this forum discussing this topic. When I purcahsed mine I tried some 115's and 124's. My 5.25 9mm definetly liked the 124's better. I recently purchased 10 boxes of 6 different kinds of 9mm (3,000 rounds). This includes 124's and 147's only. I want to get out to a 25 yard range and really see what my 5.25 likes to eat the most. I think which ever I find the most repeatable at 25 yards off hand will be the factory load that I stick with.

A shand-blast bead-blast should fix you right up.

Bill, it's already been refinished. I have a S&W from the same era, not sure if it's a Schofield, but it too was plated before I got my hands on it. No longer any collector value, just a regular old gun.

I appreciate the input!

I'll speak to an electrician friend of mine and see how easy it'd be to get phase 3 in mi casa.

I'm going to take a look at this one Thursday... http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/tls/2574366108.html I think single phase is a must so I don't have to mess with anything and can just literally plug it into my existing grid. Aircooled, I think that's a great idea but having old friends will come a long way. I worked tool and die for about a year and have very little friends left in that industry. Hell I have very little freinds period. But my tool and die "Career" was about 15 years ago. I have one "friend" who still works as a mold maker but he works for a big corp and no way I am renting any time. My next door neighbor says he runs a machine shop out of his basement but I can't even get the guy to say hello.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/search/?areaID=11&subAreaID=&query=metal+lathe&catAbb=sss

Now that I think about it. I went to lowes one time to pick up some thigns I needed for the next work day. it was a Saturday afternoon and my $2,000 generator got stolen from the back of inside of my work van. The manager on duty at the lowes store cut me a deal on a new one. Thank God for small favors, it wasn't a purchase I was planning on making but I needed a replacement. The security was not at all helpful. They sucked! and wtf are the cameras in the parking lots for if they don't video all angels? Just ridiculous... The chicago cops sucked too btw. Absolutely useless. When I called it took them 45 minutes to show up. I aid I wasn't goign to be making an insurance claim my insurance wouldn't cover it. He asked why I was wasting his time filing a report then. Ummmm you bumbling idiot because my truck got broken into maybe?! Because $2,000 worth of equipment was stolen, maybe? I run a Lowe's store. If you are making a big purchase, ask to speak to the manager on duty and explain what project you are working on. I am always open to creating a great customer experience for those that choose my store. Help me help you. No need to try and and work a system. Just support those employed there and be honest about what you need. In the end we both win. We also offer an every day 10% off to Veterans, and there is nothing more gratifying than giving that military discount and shaking their hand for their support to our country.

Scott, spare cash is an oxy-moron these days. I could go without turning down the barrel but would like to do some muzzle threading work. Yes powder, I am constantly watching ebay and craigs list. Alot is over priced for what you get but there is the occasional deal that gets snatched up rather quick.

Scott, right now I have been doing some basic gunsmithing, nothing requiring machinery like a lathe or bridgeport. However I'd like to have a lathe to be able to do some barrel threading, crowning, etc... I also had a plan to turn down a stainless barrel to remove some weight for a 3gun AR build. Do I intend to do alot? Heck, that'd be nice. I began getting serious about getting a FFL, I would have ahd it already but due to zoning I need a commercial location for the license address. I am also planning on purchasing the AGI practical gunsmithing course next week.

Thanks guys fo the info. I really like Guncat's advice about calling local shops. One is bound to have something laying around collecting dust. I definetly don't want to make the wrong purchase and a month later be looking for an upgrade. It did seem too good to be true when AGI was saying you could buy a $250 lathe. I've got some (not much) lathe experience and was thinking WTF lathe can I pick up for $250. Saw the lathes at harbor freight (as AGI suggested) and still wasn't convinced. But now that I have some specs to go on, at least now I know what to look for. Thanks guys and any other advice is much appreciated.

Damn, big difference in cost. In one of the American Gunsmithing Institute DVD's they are talking about "all you need is a $250 lathe from habor freight". While probably dated, no lathe is $250 anymore, it got me thinking. $4k for a lathe is just too far out of my budget.

Hmmm seems the through chuck capacity may be a problem for rifle barrels.

Professional gunsmiths, what are your thoughts on this lathe for gunsmithing? http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-x-10-inch-precision-mini-lathe-93212.html What features should a good gunsmithing lathe posess?

I want to stay away from bleach because the interior is carpeted and I'm not sure what the bleach will do to the carpet. Being a roofing contractor I come up against mold in attics quite frequently and my studying has shown not to use bleach water because the water can cause more harm than good. Mold needs 3 things to survive, warmth, moisture and organic material to feed. I wouldn't call a company like serve pro ever, that's a topic for a whole other thread. Anyways Insurance gave me the maximum which didn't cover nearly half the cost. We decided not to use the insurance check for anything in the basement, but to installa valve system to prevent this kind of backup from happening again. Alamao it's not sheet rock, but is some kind of press board in mine with tha carpet glued to it. The last thign I want to do is reline the whole darned thing,b ut I suppose if the fungicide doesn't work that's I'll have to do.

I didn't want the guns stanking like pine-sol (that's what the fungicide smells like). I guess that's better than smelling like rott gutt. Good tip on the bulb. May just leave it in there for months. Good guns need to shine! Right now I have the safe wide open with a fan blowing right into it. I figure it hasn't got enough air movement to fully dry. Probably get out the sprayer tomorrow and give it a good spray down.