AHI

N320,Sport pistol,w231 are all very close in speed.

there is nothing special about this bullet. lots of sources for 135 coated bullets . Pick one. SNS, Acme, just to name two.

All I ever use is range pick up . No issue loading to major. FYI for the most part major is a lighter load than factory loaded ammo.( in 40 S&W)

I should add. The Hornady .080 pin is more likely to break . Especially when decapping crimped primers. But I have been using them for quite some time. The RCBS headed pins will work also. But they are larger.

Hornady .080 recapping pin will fit. The flash hole is the smaller BR type.

Can we see the head stamp of said offending case?

My 2011 ammo is 1.175+/- oal. Can actually load longer. That's wear my gun functions most reliable.

Use your current minor load. See how you like it. You maybe surprised at how well it works. W231/HP38 makes more gas than most thank. Would not bother with Tight Group. WAC would be a good choice. HS6 and AA#7 are a little slow for a clean burn in minor. If willing to change bullet Ill suggest SNS 95 gr .380 bullet.

compare the two kits . you will find you only need 2 maybe 3 parts to build the other. this should be quite a savings over buying two complete kits. i believe you will only need powder funnel, and the two case feed parts. case hold down could be eliminated or purchase a universal one.

I tried one of the Glock Stores lower weight spring kits. Put the original back in. Recoil became sharp. It actually made the gun painful to shoot. IMO you need the heaver spring to dampen the recoil impulse. This was shooting 135ish PF ammo for a 34. So it should have been in the 120ish PF in my 43X.

Remove "activator" rod from tool head. You know the one to adjust primer depth. Now none of the primer parts are moving .

acid brush https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=acid brush

What division you enter has a requirement. Open ,limited ,limited 10 would be hammer back safety on. All other divisions hammer down.

I remove the primer system when processing brass.

If the marks were not there before you sized . The die is defective.

Have tried wet cleaning. For ME the work involved is not worth it. I just use a mix of corn cob and walnut with a little automotive wax. Now a few things I noticed while wet cleaning. The pins work harden the brass. To much limishine hardens the brass. Had a large increse in split /cracked cases. Other issues related to hard brass. The brass lost all its flex. Went back to dry cleaning . All issues went away. Someone will say something about lead levels. Have levels checked yearly. It is basically zero. If you do wet clean use disposable gloves.

line up the top middle and very bottom. only 2 screws needed.

yes ELS receiver will bolt to tech-lock base.

I run my s1050 on low speed. start with 300 to 5oo cases and maintain.( keep it close to 300) Most of the time never get a upside down case. Unless a .380 or some other case gets involved. (when loading 9MM) As Nc1911 stated I load at a speed that the feeder rarely stops. Get out your manual their are a few adjustments in the instructions you could make. A video of the case feeder running may help diagnose your issue.

is the wire strap red, yellow or blue?

Part of the scoring ROs job is to watch for target engagement. Timer ROs job is gun movement /safety.

Too much brass in feeder will also cause this issue.

press level? bench bolted to wall? correct plate?

If the answer to my question is yes and when empty it returns all the way down. You may be on the edge of adjustment. If it works as is I would load ammo and not Worry to much about it.

So it works but doesn't return to the starting point? Às when it was empty.