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Posts posted by P.E. Kelley
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Should be ok for any and all Divisions. Good luck with that gun...a fail to extract and you can toss it aside, as you will not get it running to finish the stage.
It is slower than hell to reload. But...it is fun to shoot and more fun to have others shoot for its uniqueness.
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Somehow the thread is focused on slow bullseye shooting...I am not.
The mental challenge of breaking good shots knows no speed nor a speed limit.
Before we go much further down this road... I made GM 1998 so trigger speed in not outside my skill set.
I am lucky to never had a class or shooting instruction. So I don't have a right or wrong, just a performance
criteria that strive to improve on. That is what I try to share.
Great talking with you Chris,
Patrick
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That all still applies...just faster. I don't think you would call me slow on the trigger.That was fairly basic but good info.
For high speed competition shooters,.....I might go a different route for my trigger control.
How could I call you slow, I don't know you? Haha
For me, I learned trigger control at high speed, shooting like we (USPSA) shoot.
First, for me, it seems inherently counter productive to stand and shoot like I'm doing bullseye. It just didn't help me. It's not what I'm moving around a stage doing. Do I slow fire for accuracy? Yes of course, it's good stuff. Can I learn trigger control doing slow fire, yes of course. Does this translate to good trigger control while I have both hands on the gun running around a stage shooting as fast as I can call the shots?
NOPE
Just didn't work for me that way.
What did work?
A class I took with Manny in which he described the three different trigger pulls we use at USPSA matches and the drill to subconsciously ingrain these different trigger pulls so they can be executed during the match.
So for me, this was what clicked and the drill is your basic Near to Far drill.
Fair enough. But to uphold the video I said very little about bullseye. However the mental aspect of breaking shots is the same no matter the technique.
AND I did preface the video. "perhaps too basic for the likes of this forum.
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That was fairly basic but good info.
For high speed competition shooters,.....I might go a different route for my trigger control.
That all still applies...just faster. I don't think you would call me slow on the trigger.
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We all need what we need.
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Just shot my very first 3-gun match. M3K performed flawlessly and I even hit my quad loads!
Thanks Pat, Jesse, & Tom for all the guidance.
WooHoo!!!!
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If you're not comfortable making parts fit, being able to drop in an unmodified Taran Tactical extended carrier is nice. You can do that on the Stoeger with some filing or dremeling but it won't work out of the box.
M2 charging handles also fit without modification.
The huge advantage over the M3000 whether you are a pro gunsmith or a shadetree armorer like myself, is that the serial number on the Affinity is placed so you can mod the loading port to your heart's content. The serial number location on the Stoeger is really annoying.
Somebody wanna hotlink my video?
The serial number is the only thing that "I feel" is an issue (and the M3k solves that). I don't have a need for the altered lifter nor the bolt handle...But we do like to personalize our gear with "chrome bits"
The Italian build quality is the biggest buying point in my humble opinion.
And for the record....I am no longer sponsored by Benelli / Stoeger.
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Perhaps too basic for the likes of this forum but...
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I certainly looks to be a mid priced alternative. Italian quality for less.
Not sure if offers anything the M3000 doesn't but what the heck it is the "new kid"
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I am 600 / 700 rounds through this one and would not hesitate to buy another.
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Looks great!
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How do you retain the wire?
Drop of solider or 277 loctite
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Kurt has the easiest method...turning the front post down.
I have the good fortune to have a lathe at home and I cut the post off, flatten the face and drill for the Music wire diameter of my choice. 0.035"
I only do it that way as music wire is more forgiving of being bent without breaking and if bent can be returned to near zero with little effort.
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Another for stock. But keep in mind ya can't with without the cool "go fast" parts hahahahah
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Wipe it down and apply more motor oil
This✅✅✅
Exactly ... Spend your time shooting them not cleaning them. This is a slippery slope ... Next you'll be doing those 12 step brass cleaning reloading protocols I read about on the reloading sub forum ...
I love it when logic prevails...long time shooters (high volume) get to this point pretty quick,
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I wish you much luck, there is a reason the SX FNH are not widely used.
However they are a OK platform and with proper maintenance you should be happy till your not.
I am sure we have some satisfied user that will give you the low down on what they do to keep them in top shape.
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Long guns...you have two options...both work...pick one.
Reduce the vision in the eye you don't want to use or use the commensurate shoulder and eye.
I am right eyed and left handed. I shoot pistols left and long guns right
If I were left eyed and right handed I would shot pistols right handed and long guns left handed (left shoulder and eye)
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We think about this topic too much.
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GM Production.
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One of several GM's that reduce the vision input from the non dominant eye.
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That front is a HiViz but Williams and Caspian and Novak or MOA Precision all make them.
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Suggestion 1X optics for Factory Division
in Multi-gun Gear & Accessories
Posted · Edited by P.E. Kelley
Less than 400 by half!