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SonnyCrockett

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Posts posted by SonnyCrockett

  1. I searched for this topic but didn't find anything exact. I've been loading 9mm and a little .223 on a Lee Classic Turret Press for about 9 months now and have loaded 6-7,000 rnds. I need about 1,000 rnds a month to keep up with my matches and practice. I can't justify in my mind why I should invest $1,200 on a Dillon 650 with the bells and whistles. Sure it will cut down my time loading but is it worth the investment. Seems like the break even on the Dillon is in the 8-10,000 rnd range so it would be almost a year to start seeing a return on the investment. Anyone have any thoughts?

    your arm will thank you when you switch to a progressive no matter what the brand

  2. Not to hijack, but do you like the case feeder on a 550? Does it really speed up the process or is it more noticeable on the 650?

    I have a case feeder since it came out...I like it on all calibers but its terrible on 45ACP by design it tends

    to slam the bass into the die causing a slow down

    Is there a way to temperarly stop the cases from feeding into the shell plate? If I only load 100 primers and happen to put in 110 cases in, I would like to be able to stop the cases from feeding when I run out of primers.

    I try to turn the power off just in time to end the cycle

  3. I have the 550B case feeder

    Its really OK but not fantastic.......needs work IMO

    wont run 45ACP at all which is a bummer....cases wont stay in shell plate

    they seem to wobble around and when you pull the handle the cases slam into the die

    the die just does not have room for a misguided case and since they wobble they dont always go straight in

    Cam and follower need factory revamp IMO,I see it as an easy fix..called dillon on all my issues and was told

    "were working on it" which means it could be years.....Im pretty pissed

    I cant reload 45 and I am prolly gonna buy another press just for 45 of another brand

    Another thing the case feeder needs is a OFF setting or i should be able to pull off the cam wheel to stop the feed

    so I can set up the press or fix a jam - another feature that should be there thats not IMO

    40SW runs fine,still need to try my 9MMs and 357s but 45 is a jamomatic

  4. The primer system on the dillon is very much in need of an update

    I have 10K rounds though my press and I just deal with it but I see primers

    flying around too often and IMO the flip funnel thing that catches them and drops them into the

    metal cup is weak....The funnel is too short and needs to be closer to where the primer

    I do not know why Dillon does not step up to the plate here but till then I own a broom

  5. I have an SR9c,but I ordered up a fullsize this week....It better have the lastest and greatest trigger or its going to Ruger

    The trigger is the only reason I bought the sucker...get some good sights on that gun and you have something

  6. Lee charge bar is junk,so is most of his stuff...but the Autodisc works fine

    and its repeatable - The uniquetek looks possible,they should have made that a digital micrometer and

    they would have something a reloader could put in his numbers and rock and roll-

    Honestly compared to the rest of the world of MFGing bullet reloading is in the stone age

    thx guys ill get by

  7. For my 550B I hate the hopper it came with,sitting at a press adjusting knobs every time I want to reload

    is a drag.....I find myself using me Lee hopper with its discs pretty much all the time

    I can drop in a disc,confirm the recipe from my records and rock on......however Lees stuff is limited

    by the discs them selves,,,,,if I want 6.2G on a recipe often a disc can give me 5.9 or 6.5 depending on

    orifice size.......is there any other hoppers out there that have some sort of number system that I can record

    and file for reuse like a disc can but with more precision than a Lee ?

  8. I used a pin and added a magnet to the bottom of the metal chute as a weight. My problem isn't with the chute not closing anymore. It is with those primers that don't go anywhere near the chute. It seems like they go off like a rocket at completely odd angles.

    Like I said, I just sweep once a week and I'm good.

    YES......I do see primers go hard left on occasion..has nothing to do with the chute

    Honestly this IMO is the weakest part of the design of the Dillon

    I mean really,the rely on gravity which is fine but the path is open to

    debris and the gap is too large.....Never had this problem with the slow red press..

    Maybe they should supply a broom with all 550Bs and If they want to claim to be the best

    press made well,be it.......talk is cheap - its a lame design

  9. I also added a piece of flexible magnet that you get from advertising companies or vendors, etc. to the inner side of the chute tube. Opens nicely with the safety pin.

    Nice. Yes, replacing the cotter pint waith a safety pin eliminated "primers everywhere" for me.

    be

    I installed a custom tactical upgrade by throwing the cotter pin away and bending a paper clip to the proper dimensions. I made my super grade takedown tool for my 2011 using similar technology.

    ..

    U guys are a gas........Ill try a looser pin idea

    but honestly what sucks is all the dirt and carbon that builds up

    around the ram that caused all the fiddling I have to do to load

  10. My least fav part of the press,the primer system

    They are either on the floor or the slide does not move free enough

    to catch a fresh primer and I have to halt operation to fix

    U see the primer cup is free and the cotter pin is not tight

    it moves as its supposed too....So I am lost here

    I have cleaned the primer feeder /slide and all other moving parts often

    and even bent the rod a bit but cant seem to get it 100% reliable

    What am i missing ?

  11. I prefer Winchester WSF, followed by Hodgdon Universal :

    2) mixed brass

    180 gr. Precision Delta

    4.6 gr. Universal

    CCI500

    167 PF

    I started loading Universal in 40 last week,I was using Longshot but its a tad jumpy and well,its a cannon

    Universal was nice,clean and cheap plus I can buy it locally without hazmat fees and it is calm compared to LS

    I was loading

    180 PDs

    5.2 g Universal

    CCI500

    1.23 OAL

    Works well for me,I shoot it in my SIG and Glocks

    4.6 is a light load - surprised it cycles the slide on the last round

  12. I tried 4.3 of Universal on some 124PDs and my slide would not operate

    correctly (lock on the last shot),bumped it to 4.6 and it was allot better

    but a bit snappy IMO...I had an OAL of 1.135...I am wondering if and OAL change would

    hop up the smaller loads

  13. 380 is the devil !...........

    Nothing like rolling along peacefully on my dillon 550 loading 9MM and a bloody

    .380 stumbles onto my decap die and causes an entire meltdown ...

    Its like taking a sip of sour milk by mistake

    Ewwwwww

  14. I reload for fun and as a hobby .....and it keeps me out of Walmart :)

    and as an added bonus I get a way more accurate bullet that I can tailor fit to my

    needs plus I can show up at a range with more QTY as well...plus I gain a ton of

    education on how bullets work and how to make the better faster slower or whatever

    One size fits all store bought bullets - ehh not for me,thats like eating

    hamburgers for lunch every day,gets kinda boring

  15. For practice, etc. I have always used 180 gr. and prefer jacketed in my G23. I've shot factory FMJ in 155 and 165, but I prefer the heavier bullet. For some time I've been using Precision Delta because their product is very cost competitive.

    bought 2K bullets from them today......We are good to go .......

  16. 180's are a very good choice, should run well with VV N320 or Win WST. Jacleted or lead your choice.

    We tried some 200gr plated and didn't like the feel or accuracy.

    Mildot

    I have some Unique and Longshot for powder.....Tried them both

    Longshot seems to be a little hotter judging by the flames shooting

    out of my Glock :)

  17. What are you planning on using them for?

    If you're using them for USPSA type matches, stick with the 180s for a while (if it's a non-compensated gun). 180 is the most common weight used for .40 in both Major and Minor for a reason...it's a nice compromise weight that isn't so heavy that it prevents you from using faster powders (which help keep it soft feeling). Lighter bullets will be a bit snappier, heavier bullets will be a bit softer feeling.

    Every gun is it's own rule, and sometimes the bullet or weight you want to use, won't be as accurate as you'd like in your gun.

    180 is what I used,just targets no competitions or anything

    I guess thats what Ill stick with........Seems to be the popular vote

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