noylj
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Posts posted by noylj
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Only if you want to increase head space gap and decrease accuracy.
What is the fascination with trimming straight-wall cases?
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If bulge is on one side, you are seating bullets crooked.
If bulge goes all around evenly, all that matters is if they chamber
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Use 20/40 grit. It won't lodge in primer pocket. If a flake of any media gets in flash hole, the depriming pin will remove it. Just go to Grainger's or big box home supply store (home depot, etc) and ask for 20/40 corn media.
Nut shells produce a lot of fine powder that can lodge in case and is not good to breathe.
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I like 357" Jacketed bullets in my 9x19 guns.
Do you know the actual groove diameter of your gun?
Jacketed bullets usually shoot best at actual barrel groove diameter or a mil or two larger.
Plated and lead bullets generally shoot best 001" larger than groove diameter or a mil or two larger.
Zero has always been a top source of accurate bullets.
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Internal case volume and length vs diameter all effect pressure/velocity.
Look at results in Reloading manuals and only use loads from Reloading manuals
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Yes, you can use data for heavier bullets of the same construction.
Must admit, never heard of 45 Auto bullets that light.If they make bullets that light, someone has used them (though I expect cowboy action shooting in 45 Colt more than in 45 Auto).
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Alaskapopo
SAAMI spec for 9x19, 9x21, .38 Super, .38 Special, and .357 is 0.355" barrel groove diameter.
0.357" bullets work well in 9mm and 9mm can work well in .38.
However, if the undersize bullets are plated, I can almost guarantee poor accuracy ranging all the way to keyholing at 10 yards.
Always do a push test after seating a bullet for any cartridge. Always.
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But, of course, you take your gun apart every time to clean it?
People do what they want, whether any one else understands why.
To me, it takes so little time to pull a slide and remove the barrel...
Still, in the last 20 years, I have had one round not chamber. It seized up my P-08 "Luger." Got gun apart and it was a raised ridge, looked like from a feed ramp bulge (like the sizing die had simply changed a very slight bulge and moved it down the case to form a raised ridge), that I didn't even see when inspecting my cases. Still, took a lot less time to solve the problem than 20 years of gaging every round...
Maybe gage for important matches, but I think I solved the problem by bulge busting all my 9x19 and .40 cases. That was about 5 years ago and no issues since then.
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If a couple tenths of a grain can blow up your gun, then that load is a ticking time bomb.
Do you use a Lock-Out die to verify powder?
If something looks off with powder charge, why not check it?
Do you press down on every bullet after seating? Bullet may not have been held tightly and was pushed back into case during feed cycle. Do push test on every seated bullet.
Major is generally just a misstep from KB
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Why not try a case and find out?
Dimension at case mouth are very similar.
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Wish I could see set-up and problem.
Again, do they chamber in your gun? F the gage. If they chamber in gun, they are good to go. I have never had a gage, never wanted a gage, and never needed a gage.
Raise shellplate all the way up. Screw in Lee or Hornady sizing die (Dillon dies size down the least) to just touch sheelplate. Lower ram, insert case in shellplate, raise ram and size case. At the same time, turn lock ring/nut down to lock die body in place with case still in die.
You may want to get a Lee 9mm MAK fcd, remove the crimp guts, lube cases, and bulge bust all your cases to eliminate any bulges.
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If they chamber, it is fine. Is it a "wasp waist," where the "bulge" goes all around the case? This is generally considered very good. It will help prevent the bullet being pushed into the case. The sizing die must size the case OD down to x.xxx inch diameter no matter the case wall thickness. When the expander brings the case ID up to just below bullet diameter, it only expands as far as the designer believed the bullet would be seated, so the case below that point is NOT expanded.
If there is an actual bulge on just one side of the case, the bullet is seating crooked. Best solutions are more case flare and a seating stem that actually fits and controls the bullet. For custom seating stems, I request no contact with the bullet nose with contact as low down the ogive as possible
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Call and ask. May not even have time to keep site updated
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Plunk Testing:
The solution to chambering problems is to determine the cause:
Take the barrel out of the gun. Drop rounds in until you find one
that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and
case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in
barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth a few times.
Remove and inspect the round:
1) Scratches in the ink on bullet--COL is too long
2) Scratches in the ink on edge of the case mouth--insufficient
crimp
3) Scratches in the ink just below the case mouth--too much
crimp, you're crushing the case
4) Scratches in the ink on case at base of bullet--bullet seated
crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare)
or improper seating stem fit
5) Scratches in the ink on case just above extractor groove--case has a bulge the sizing die can't reach. Bulge Bust or toss case. -
Plunk Testing:
The solution to chambering problems is to determine the cause:
Take the barrel out of the gun. Drop rounds in until you find one
that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and
case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in
barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth a few times.
Remove and inspect the round:
1) Scratches in the ink on bullet--COL is too long
2) Scratches in the ink on edge of the case mouth--insufficient
crimp
3) Scratches in the ink just below the case mouth--too much
crimp, you're crushing the case
4) Scratches in the ink on case at base of bullet--bullet seated
crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare)
or improper seating stem fit
5) Scratches in the ink on case just above extractor groove--case has a bulge that sizing die can't reach. Bulge Bust or toss case. -
1050 comes with a two year warranty because most have been bought by commercial ammo makers who produce 1000000+ rounds a year on them.
If you have a problem with either press and they suspect you are "using a motor," you get two years. If they can see machine and know you are just a handloader, you get treated to the no BS warranty.
Both machines are so similar, I can't see an issue. Both will load just as well.
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Sarge: have you tries Precision Bullets? If not, try some
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What does bullet diameter have to do with lede?
Lead bullets should be at LEAST 0.001" larger than actual groove diameter.
Adjust COL using inert dummy rounds and the COL that feeds and chambers 100% is your gun's COL with that bullet and you can start loading from there.
If you find that COL is too short for major, if that is your goal, THEN you can drill the throat longer.
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If Redding 380 dies, contact Redding
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Delete
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380 or 9x19 expander? Longer length will hit case web
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All my 45s prefer 200 over 185 gn.
If you live for coated bullets, try Precision Bullets (Kemp, TX?). Fantastic accuracy from their 200 gn SWC.
Slightly better in terms of accuracy are Zero and Precision Delta.
Just how big is your "black?" The targets I normally use have a, for whatever reason, 2 1/3" black bullseye and all my 45 rounds should stay well inside that at 25 yards.
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Lack of data does not mean unsuitability. What it means is testing costs money and companies decided that they weren't paying their technicians to test shotgun powders in pistols or vice versa.
Google data, verify start charge is near similar powders, and try it. I might start down near WST levels ( if not Red Dot levels) and work up.
However, if you don't already own it, I wouldn't procure it.
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Blue Dot really fills a 9x19 case. I could not reach max pressure with 124 or 115 gn bullets, but I got very high velocity. Consider AA7 more useful.
Green Dot is similar in usage to 231/HP38 and N320. Very good for 45 and 38 target loads.
Dychem for marking cartridges
in 10mm/40 Caliber
Posted
I have brushed it over the case head and primer for over 40 years without issue, just like many have for decades before me. I don't like the idea of coating the sides as it might leave residue behind in the chamber.