joelogic

Pic of said machine?

I use the 4x4's and the screw patterns fit with the els forks. Only thing that annoys me is Safariland's lead time. They say all items are made to order with 2-3 week times.

Not to thread jack but how many akro bins of brass can you load in the feeder? I called Dillon and they said it should feed 2 bins worth but my feeder chokes with anything more than 3/4 of a bin.

I started with .45 much easier than starting with rifle, just a tip even with pistol you can use a small amount of lube. I use one spray for two akro bins.

Well I look forward to the match. I have the hotel booked already.

This whole time I thought I was using the low mass carrier. But now that I see the picture I am obviously using the JP full mass carrier. Argh, at least now I know the full mass carrier works just fine with the Low Mass Buffer and spring. I guess I need to order a new BCG. Edit: Low mass carrier ordered. Yipee, time to readjust the gas block.

Wow, a 4 pager here too...

I use it for .223 and .308 and it works great. I recommend the baffle and with a hopper this large you dont really need the low powder alarm.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=135543&st=0&p=1524566entry1524566 According to the above chart the motor should be 100F after 10 minutes, so I guess it is working. Hopefully today I can do a 30 minute and 1 hour run. Test 1 - 10 Minute Run Standing Water - 65F Trimmer - 72F No load run Water - 69F Trimmer - 80F

No brewing for me. Not even a big PC person but I did research PC water cooling for my project. The fan is on order because I could not find a 120mm AC fan locally. I will build a shroud out of sheet aluminum. One other consideration is to put a value at the exit of the coils to increase dwell time. Someone else mentioned that 140F is a low friction point for motor brush life, so trying to go lower may not extend the life of the motor.

Background: I had my trimmer for about 2 years and trimmed around 40k pieces. Someone said they have trimmed 2 million pieces on theirs but I guess my luck isn't that good. Like anything electronic, my trimmer died. Dillon really came through with this one, their warranty on electronics is only one year but I sent mine in anyway. The tech said the brushes needed to be replaced and they did it free of charge. +1,000,000 for Dillon's No BS Warranty. Why: I was trying to figure out why the brushes wore out and I reasoned it must be the heat. Someone posted that their trimmer gets to 140F after 30 minutes. HOT. What: Enter some borrowed tech and I decided to try and water cool the trimmer motor. What I built so far is just to test a theory, so dont judge the build quality. If it works I will clean up the build and post the details. Copper tubing around the trimmer, a small radiator, and a submersible water pump. Function tests fine, no leaks. Heat test run tonight.

Why not just buy the Hornady feeder?

The gun not loading a shell onto the carrier after firing a shell seems to be a common problem. One thing in common with everyone is a c-rums welded lifer. I started a thread on this a month or so ago. Suggestions were shortening/lengthening the mag spring and tuning the shell stop. I will try the bending of the lifter next.

The .40 die holds 6 200gr bullets, I haven't tried my 9mm die yet. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/349969_DIY_Hornady_LNL_AP_Bullet_Feeder__9mm_.html

2 million pieces! PW or super strong right arm? When I get my trimmer back I will have to rig up a fan/heat sink.

What does the temp go to after an hour? What temp is bad/critical? I look forward to the heat sink data.

How long have you owned yours? How many pieces of brass have you trimmed? How long do you trim at a time? Have you tried to use a heat sink on the motor? Have you tried to use a rheostat to slow down the trimmer? I have had my trimmer for two years and at the most I have trimmed 30k pieces of .223, .308, and 300BLK. I trim for about an hour at a time and the motor will burn the skin if touched. After its hard use I decided to look the motor over and while looking at the cutting blade I notice there was a lot of brass shavings wrapped around the cutting shaft. I decided to pull the motor apart and clean the brass off the shaft. There is not much going on in there so I could not have put it back together wrong. After about 2 more hours of trimming the motor was varying in speed and it sounded like the shaft was hitting the wall and then it would stop and start until it just would not start again. I sent it back to Dillon for repair. Coincidence that it stopped working after I cleaned it?

Where is the pressure difference between a 300 blk and .223? Pressure might have been the wrong word. Tension may be better. For me to get 30 rounds of 150gr FMJ to feed consistently I had to step up to the Wolff +10% springs plus derib the mags. I think the slam seating of the additional weight/force is what cracked the lip on my mags because it was the right side that crack on my 3 mags.

Sorry to thread jack but I am having a problem with my Benelli M2 as well. I have a stock operating system and have added a couple of parts; Nordic +6 tube, Nordic spring trimmed to 12" past tube, nordic follower, and a c-rums lifter. I have filed the loading port a little larger and other than that it is a stock gun. What happens is I load the mag tube, chamber a round, and fire. When the gun fires it ejects the shell and the bolt closes but there isn't a round in the chamber. When I pull the trigger to fire the second round I can hear the second shell load onto the carrier so I have to charge it and then I can continue with my string. So basically the gun is not releasing the next shell onto the carrier during the firing cycle. I am working the gun wrong? I am shooting tactical division so during the staging of the shotgun, I load 9 into the mag tube and pull back the bolt just enough to put in a chamber flag. When I am up, I move to the line, remove the chamber flag, hit the shell release (silver tab with red dot), and then rack the gun. It doesn't happen all the time, maybe every other stage. I think it only happens when the tube is near full. Am I not shouldering it enough to allow the inertia system to work? So far the suggestions have been to bend/polish the shell stop a little because the shells are getting caught on it or to trim the mag spring to 8-10" past because there may be too much pressure against the shell stop. Any help is appreciated and my times will reflect it.

Pmags are consumables. Keep spares and inspect prior to the match. I am going to try out some of the Lancer L5 mags with steel feed lips because the Pmags don't stand up the the pressure from 300BLK rounds.

Sorry if this is in the wrong forum. I want to have my Benelli M2 bolt lightened. I am leaning towards Triangle Shooting sports because of the smooth side so that I can have it laser etched. Anything I should consider when choosing companies if the price didn't matter?