Nemesis Lead

I am new to PCC myself, but the answer is hard leans around barricades. If you are right handed, try learning to the left around a barricade. See how far you can see to the right with your primary optic on top of the gun. Now roll the gun to the right (to expose the offset optic that you don't have) and see how much further to the right you can see. You get a little further around the barricade. It seems like an expensive solution to a rare problem. But my club was previously dominated by Open shooters who like to give PCC shooters a hard time when they design stages. Big left leans are pretty common now. We see them every match. Alternatively, it is a back up optic and can also be set up for a different zero (although I won't go that route) than your primary optic. FInally, if you have to go prone and your big magazine gets in the way, you can roll your rifle over and get a little lower in the prone position.

This is what I am leaning toward right now. Do you like it? Bright enough? Mount puts the optic in the right place?

I run the same CT green laser as you. The issue is that in the bright California sun, I can't easily see it past 10 yards. I am like you--always like the larger dots for our close range game.

Thank you. I am curious if you like the 3 MOA or 8 MOA optic better?

After struggling a bit to do a hard left lean around a corner with a PCC, I have decided to get: 1) An Offset Optic Mount 2) An Offset Optic Does anyone have suggestions on which work best? Please--no debates on the efficacy of offset optics. I am just looking for good product recommendations and the reasons people like these products.

I am the OP of this gigantic thread. ? Just as an FYI, I went with the C-More 8 MOA and loved it. Except that anything that bumped the optic would shift its zero. I went to the Leupold LCO and absolutely love it. Huge field of view, great battery life, small 1 MOA dot, very BRIGHT dot to overcome the smallness of the dot, very ergonomic controls, holds zero, etc.. But I imagine that the cost of this optic turns a lot of guys off.

I run a JP GMR-15 and I managed to break the JP firing pin after just 600 rounds. I just sent an email to JP and I am sure that they will send me a new one. They have always been super cool about stuff like this. However, for a backup......I was thinking of trying the Wilson Combat bullet proof firing pin. Does anyone know if that will work with a JP GMR-15 bolt? Also, does the WIlson Combat pin live up to its "unbreakable" marketing hype? Many thanks!

I am looking for a good PCC 14.5 inch barrel and compensator that are sold already pinned and welded together. I don't want to have to do that on my side. I realize that PCC comps usually don't work well. I usually like them because they increase noise!

Thanks guys. I checked the ejector. It is already pretty darn close to the bolt and similar to all of my rifles that DO work. I also ordered a lighter buffer spring. Any other thoughts?

Hi guys, I just got a TACCOM LW Upper. The thing is amazingly accurate and lightweight, but I am getting a fair number of failures to extract (brass gets stuck inside the gun and gets crushed). About 10% of rounds get hung up like this. My ammo is 147 grain 135 PF loads that work perfectly in pistols and my JP GMR-13 carbine. I am guessing that the issue is with the buffer and buffer spring. I am running a Springco AR-15 extra power (red) carbine spring and a Blitzkrieg 9mm hydraulic buffer. The gun ejects brass about 6 feet. I tend to run carbines with a moderate amount of lubrication. The lower is a JP GMR-15 lower. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

On TACCOM'S website, it recommends NOT using Lead or Poly Coated bullets with their PCC Barrel and recommends brushing the barrel out if you do. All I run are poly coated bullets. Have folks had issues with this? What happens?

Great video! With a 0.9 reload, you should make master fairly quickly.

Hi PHX, How do you like the offset mount? Ever run into offset issues or shoot up barricades? I had the nutty thought or running one of these with Vortex Venoms on either side: https://www.barska.com/picatinny-style-dual-offset-rail-by-barska.html I am not sure that it would work, but I would only be out $20 for the mount.

Also interested in hearing from folks who have tried it and discarded it.

How do folks who run the MBX Fang like it? Does it help get your head up? Does it ever get in the way? Other issues or benefits?

I am curious--have you had any issues with Steel Charging Handles? I thought about doing this once. And then I looked at my existing aluminum charging handle. It was a little worn down on one side from a surprisingly small amount of shooting / dry firing. It left me concerned as to whether or not my charging handle was damaging my upper receiver (it looked fine). With a steel charging handle, it seems like that might really hurt your upper receiver which I think is aluminum. This is all just speculation on my part and I could be totally wrong. I am curious what your actual experience has been. Any damage to your upper receiver?

Decided to run the kinaesthetic angles grip from Bravo Company. I love it. After two days of dry fire, I can already see that my concerns about inconsistent grip were not founded. With a little practice, you hit the grip every time.

Thanks, Longbeard. I will say this----I already own 2 complete JPs. They are great guns, but one thing that drives me NUTS is that they use red (not blue) loctite all over their guns. I recently placed an order for a GMR-15 and asked them to "hold the red loctite" since I would be changing a few parts out. They refused. I cancelled the order. The red loctite just makes it just a nightmare to take them apart if you are changing out their (way overweight and too thick) handguards, for example. I once tried to swap out a buffer tube and found that red loctite was there too which makes NO sense since there is a staked castle nut there..... The high prices of JPs and their stubborness on issues such as this are what prompted this thread. So I won't be buying a complete GMR-15.

Thank you for this and the PM. I saw these parts, but California FFLs are skittish on taking COMPLETE lowers much less something incomplete. I have a couple of emails out to FFLs and am waiting to see what they will take.

How is that working for you? Probably 3 out of 4 of my reloads are fine. Then the 4th one is so stuck that I have to use my thumb to drop the mag and I get a 5 second reload.

Would LOVE it if you were right, but the rifle builder does not show the lower being available by itself. I also emailed JP last year and they refused to sell a lower by itself which is strange since they do this for most other guns. Not to gripe, but this is wrong headed of JP. The GMR-13 had minor issues which were corrected in the GMR-15. They seem to want GMR-13 owners to just buy a complete GMR-15. I won't do it. Time to buy from another maker.

It looks like a lot of gun makers will not sell a lower independent of an upper (e.g., JP). I am interested in getting a lower and mating it with a GMR-13 upper that I already have. Does anyone know of a company that sells complete, Glock-compatible lowers? Looking for something that has a good mag release (I absolutely hate the mag release in the GMR-13 I have). Some thing that feeds well, reloads well and has a trigger that will reliably reset. A good trigger would be nice, but I can always go aftermarket for that. I have seen that QC-10 sells a pistol lower which I am not even sure is legal for me in CA. This was my first choice, but I am wondering if there are other options. Thanks in advance.

One feature overlooked thus far........less optic-bore offset.

Thanks guys. Weather and the holidays affect range time, right? And to be clearer, I am asking about the Taccom 3 stage vs the Blitzkrieg hydraulic with the AR 10 rifle spring.

The title says it all. I am interested in hearing from folks who have shot both of these. These are my two finalists! Thanks in advance!