statichead2k

ROFL, Thanks for the chuckle!! Move Zig!!

I have a TZ-75 open gun in 9X21. I have shot nothing but 9mm luger through it. It seems to shoot well and function just fine. I am in the process of working up a major load. I will stick with 9X19 brass since it is pretty much free @ my range.

What's that run bob? The whole shebang. I have a duo tone, black and stainless 9mm 4 inch. I like it tons. The stainless isn't stainless and has gets minor rust If I let it go and I am thinking of hard chroming the slide. The trigger is acceptable but I think it could be better. I don't really like the point of aim with the fixed sights either.

I have orderd from both places mentioned in the previous post, and I can add my positive feedback. Both Dawson's and Shooters Connection have great shipping. I once ordered the wrong belt from shooters connection and was able to talk to a person immediately to process the return and determine what I really should have ordered. They were great.

After shooting my kimber I was very unimpressed with the new para P-16 I got. The fit and finish just would not stand up to Kimber standards. The rear sight from the factory was a joke. I am not sure what was up with it and it may have been broken, but windage would change with each shot. And the factory trigger is not user friendly at all. I had my gun smith de-series 80 it and at the same time crispen and lighten it a little. In the end the trigger was very nice. In limited 10 I am happy with Kimber triggers out of the box. I am not going to bash paras as I have seen some really nice custom jobs, but out of the box they are not quite limited ready. I ended up trading it for a Kimber single stack and then buying an STI .40. I like the STI a lot!!

Tightgroup is kinda scary in 40. It is a very fast powder and 4.9 grains(for 180s) is not really visible and a double charge is hard to detect. TG is also very snappy at major PF. I did not realize how much the pistol moves until I hit it on a port. I guess the fast action was masking the distance it moved. My preference is something bulkier. Like n330 or 340. These powders are slower and a double charge is easy to see, since the case pretty much overflows. However, TG is one of the cleanest powders I have loaded for 40. The shock buff usually wears out before the pistol "needs" to be cleaned.

Wow! My fiance had the same thing, sort of, happen with her STI limited in 40. We were at the practice range and a double charge of Tightgroup blew the snot out of the case. The plastic grip frame cracked in a couple of places, around the mag release and down by the bottom of the Mainspring housing, but it did stay together. The next bullet in line took alot of damage from the gas and shrapnel, but the mag did not drop. There was not a big enough piece of the case head to find, and the rest of the case stayed in the barrel. She had one or two small nicks on her face, but nothing more. I was really mostly impressed at how the gun stayed together. Besides a new grip frame and extractor she is still using all of the parts. I am not familar with 38 super but from my understanding it is not really possible to double charge and still seat the bullet. Still, it amazes me that a weak case would have that devestating of an effect. I used to want an open STI. That all steel open witness is looking much better now.

I dunno, I looked back at my invoice and the price was 78 + shipping, came to about 86 bucks. It was 88 on the site, then it was 78 at checkout. I do have an account with them, but I dont know if that makes a difference.

mdiway has the simmons 1.5-5X20 shotgun scope for about 79 bucks. There are just a few left. One less than there was 20 minutes ago in fact. Simmons on Midway.

use start run "msconfig" You can use it to put the machine in a complete diagnostic start up or just disable select startup items.

I use a combo of ad-aware and spybot, both were mentioned already and both are free from cnet.downloads.com. I found that one will find stuff the other did not. The key to either is making sure they are updated. I also use an adblocking hosts file from http://www.everythingisnt.com/hosts.html Make sure you understand what the hosts file will do to your PC before you use it. Basically it makes your computer look for the ad websites on itself, when it cannot find them it gives up. It is real fun to go to MSN and see the banners missing and replaced with small versions of the page cannot be displayed error. The last two pieces are norton AV corp edition, because it seems less invasive and more tuneable than the home editions. I also use the goggle toolbar that has a pop up blocker built in. I spend my day removing this garbage from client computers for good money, and so far the stuff that I use at home seems to be the best...and all free except for norton.

The company that I work for builds hundreds of custom business geared machines each year. The cases we use currently have stamped in risers for most of the standard mother board mounting points and brass standoffs for the optional holes. They also come with stick on rubber bumpers for the outer edge of the motherboard that may not line up correctly. These rubber bumpers keep the motherboard from flexing too much when jamming IDE cables and such in after mounting it to the case.

To second mover's post, my smith 617 has never jammed, and if it misfires I pull the trigger again and it goes bang. It's a great 10 rnd 22, but takes a week to reload. By far my favorite 22 auto is the browning buckmark. We have a 7 inch bull, fluted barrel. It likes almost any ammo and runs like a champ. The browning has one of the best factory triggers that I have felt too. The one thing that I have found with it is that it likes oil a lot. We use a really light oil and the gun has to practcally splash as you are shooting to run 100%. When it starts to dry out we will get a random jam. Failure to eject, failure to feed, failure to fire, you name it, it does it all. Add oil and everthing is ok again.

A friend of mine does awful things to his sights as soon as he gets a 1911. One of the things he does is file the front sight down quite a bit, even with adjustable sights. "They all shoot low." he says. I had to do the same thing to my fixed sight kimber to correct it hitting low. My local gunsmith has a pretty cool tool for taking it down square and even. We took it down a bit at a time with test firing between to make sure we didn't over do it. Hope this helps.

I did some chronographing with the 45 and the 40 MasterBlaster Bullets and the west coast plated for comparison. Master Balster 180 grn bullets with 4.8 Grns Titegroup in 40. avg 963Fps with 16.4 Standard Deviation and 23fps extreme spread. The same load using West coast 180grn plated FP avg 938 FPS with 13.8 SD and 36fps extreme spread. OAL was 1.195 for both from an STI eagle 5 inch. In 45 we used a Kimber Super match 5 inch. OAL was 1.265 MasterBlaster 200 Grn with 5.0 TiteGroup avg 799fps with 12.4 SD and 34 extreme spread. Westcoat 200Grn Plated RN 5.0 titegroup. avg 737 with 21.8 SD and 40FPS ES The MB in .40 was about 25 ft/s faster The MB in 45 was almost 60ft/second faster but still not enough to go major in 200grn. I guess I will go to 5.2

The para factory ten rounders that came with my P16 ran flawlessly.

STI 10 rounders are pretty darn expenive, 60 bucks from STI, and not so reliable at least in .40 loaded long. I guess you could have them tuned but why? STI offers a single stack grip frame for about the cost of two 10 rnd mags that will allow you to use the more reliable single stack mags from McCormick or Wilson. STI grip Frame I am a single stack man myself but my lady has an STI eagle double stack and had a heck of a time trying to get the 10 rounders working. So, she shoots her kimber with wilsons for limited 10. I haven't tried the single stack frame but I have a friend how did... he seemed to like it.

Another vote for the wilsons. I have had very good luck with them and if they do break or what ever I just call wilson and they send the parts with no BS ala, dillon type warranty. I also second the motion for a kimber. I just got my fourth a, TLE RA and it shoots amazing out of the box. You could spend twice the amount I paid for my kimber on that auto ordanance clone and still not have as good of pistol.

What kinds of round counts will we be looking at? I.E how many mags will I need to fit on my belt? I am sending in my entry for the lil' lady and myself this morning. Sounds like a great match.

After shooting it with the pistol and watching others shoot it, I can see that it will be a very cool thing to set up down range for rifle shooting. It reset flawlessly all the times that I watched it and each time I shot it. I like the idea of reactive steel that you don't have to take a 200 yard stroll to set up; like the chickens at TRC. It looked like it performed well when you went after it with the shotgun too! My one complaint is that the plates seem smaller than they look. I missed a couple shots on the first string

My Gold Cup came with a bomar rear sight, but we bought it used It is a series 70 NM from the mid 70's. I shot it in L-10 today at the local match and came out on top of the other C class shooters including some open guys. I really like the retro look and the wide trigger. It runs like a champ and is pretty darn accurate. I have had some link problems that were fixed with new, not worn out link. My only gripe is that the front sight is hard to pick up at indoor shoots.

I use kydex double mag pouches from Buy Brown. he's a local guy and does awesome work. I recently broke the paddle on my mag pouch getting in and out of the range car. Brown put a techlock (techlock pic)on it for me and I have never been happier. It sits out just a little farther, is adjustable for forward or reverse angles and I have not broken it since. The pic link goes to a knife sheath, but pretend it is a mag pouch.

Sorry should have mentioned that. I have tried a new firing pin spring and a shortened firing pin spring. The firing pin hits plenty hard. I suspect that it is having a hard time deforming the primer because it hits so close to the edge. I should also mention, that when I reassembled the barrel and link I installed the link backwards. The oblongation had been in the front and now is towards the rear. At the last steel match I had no light hits, at the IPSC match prior to turning it around I had at least two. Just that change seemed to cause the pistol to lock up better.

Yeah quadratic, that's right, no wonder my physics professor hated me.

I have a Series 70 Gold Cup in .45, older than I am. It has always hit the primer off center(low). The center of the firing pin hit is about .045" from the center of the primer. A large pistol primer is about .200" the center should be around .100" from the edge. This puts the edge of the mark about .032" from the edge of the primer on one side and .095" on the other. This has not been an issue until recently. The gun has started producing light hits once in about every 200 rnds. So I researched, tore down and inspected. The barrel is a colt N.M. with extra tall lower lugs, it uses a #13 link which is starting to show some oblong wear on the slide stop side. A #13 link is .291" center to center and a standard link is .278" center to center. I have four options from the way I see it. I can replace the link and do nothing else. Kellyn sells them from web page. I can replace the link (it needs it) and install an offset firing pin bushing from Clark. Clark Offset Bushing I can cut the lower lugs and use a shorter link, say a #4 or #5 Or I can forget all that and have a new high quality, stock type barrel fit. Any opinions? My understanding of the high lower lugs and extra long link are that they are part of an accurizing process. The gun is very accurate. The same hole at 15 yards from a rest is possible if I am patient enough. Not bad for a 30 year old pistol. Thanks.