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scotty

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Everything posted by scotty

  1. The Bar-Sto I installed in my G22 needed to have the rear of the hood shortened ever so slightly. It has been running like a clock ever since. I put a KKM .357 Sig barrel in a friends G24. Dropped in and works just fine.
  2. scotty

    Quickmeasure

    There was an in depth review of one recently on the reloading forum at www.snipershide.com
  3. My boys drop by the house just before they go to the range. Each have both armes full of ammo when they leave. If I'm going to keep up with demand I've got to use a progressive press. No offense intended and I have no issue with you doing it in the most convenient way, but it seems that if your boys can pull the trigger, they can also pull the handle on a press. My son (now 18) doesn't have near the interest in shooting that I do, but understands that this stuff takes effort and costs money. He learned to reload a few years ago.
  4. scotty

    Glock 35

    I'm also left handed and for that reason I tend to dislike extended or oversize mag catch buttons. Depending on the gun, they usually lay right under the top of my middle finger. I haven't had any abrasion or soreness problems, but I haven't fired enough rounds with a gun so equipped. For me, it's more a problem with my middle finger activating the mag catch with a normal grip and having unscheduled "bombs away" episodes. My G22 has always had its original mag catch and I've had zero problems with it.
  5. Sam, good words! In my mind, my shooting ability is based on what I can do right now, on demand, today, with the equipment I have immediately at hand. I don't worry about circumstances such as what classifiers have been shot in the past, the letter on the card in my pocket, or the alignment of the planets. I am my own toughest competitor. Situations such as no shoots, hardcover, or whatever are things that I must slow down for as necessary. Each stage is its own entity. I always shoot each one the best I can. You may want to take this with a grain of salt, as it comes from a solid C class shooter.
  6. All of Patrick's cautions apply, but... Shortening a stock and fitting a buttpad is not rocket science. You just need to be careful and have plenty of patience. I did my first job using a radial arm saw to cut the stock and a portable belt sander clamped into my bench vise to fit the pad. Came out nice. I have since acquired better tools that make the job easier, but they don't come out any better. The most critical part is cutting the stock parallel to the existing face. I don't know what the going rate is for have having it done professionally, but for me it means the difference between havin a new buttpad or not having one.
  7. I never tried to analyze it very much. For me, it's just uncomfortable.
  8. I have a Leupold Vari-X II 1-4x20 on my mini-14. I've been very happy so far. Bright, clear, and eye relief is not very critical. Is it a true 1x? I have no idea, but the field of view when dialed all the way down is such that I can see a goodly portion of the barrel.
  9. I've been using Ranch Products moon clips in my 610. I was told that they are the OEM for S&W and I have no reason to doubt this as they are identical to the clips that came with the gun. I have zero complaints so far. The only problem I've had is after stepping on one after ejecting it in practice and bending it badly. They're cheap enough that I threw it away. For demooning, I use a tool I bought from Brownell's that is the same as Bubber mentioned. It will hold 6 rds loaded or unloaded. I load them with my thumb. A few seconds per clip to either load or unload.
  10. I have no experience with Lasercast bullets in .40, so I can't say about them. I replaced the barrel in my G22 with a Bar-Sto. Due to the tighter chamber, it is a little less tolerant of the loads it digested. I always ran my loads at 1.135" in both barrels, but the Bar-Sto liked a little tighter crimp. Factory loads always ran fine. Once I figured out the crimp, it ran 100%. This is with Bear Creek and D&J 180gr lead and various jacketed bullets.
  11. When I was a partner in a gun store, we sold many Baikal shotguns including dozens of IZH27 O/U's. They tended to be a little tight when new, but after a little shooting would loosen up a tad to be quite smooth. I only had two guns come back with a problem. The first was a customer who was suspicious because it was too cheap to be a good gun. I told him to buy it, shoot it for 30 days, and if he was unhappy for any reason to bring it back and I would give him full credit against anything he wanted. After about two months, he brought it back. It had an ejector screw come loose and fall out. He wanted to keep the gun, just wanted it fixed. I took a screw from one of my shop guns and he left a happy customer. A phone call to EAA got me 5 replacement screws in a few days. I still have the other four. The second was from another customer with a 20ga who complained that, after 3 years of ownership, the second barrel wouldn't always fire. After inspection, I found that it was so covered in grunge, I don't know how it could work at all. After a good cleaning, it worked fine. After removal of the buttstock, the entire mechanism is clearly visible. The gun was returned to the customer with an admonition that it needed to be cleaned at least once in a while. These are things that could happen to any gun, no matter how expensive. The Baikal shotguns are an excellent value for the price. I would recommend to them to anyone for a good starter O/U.
  12. This is one of my best excuses for fumble fingered reloads on my 610. My gun was too hot-really.
  13. 1/4 inch is quite a bit, but is in no way excessive as long as you like it that way. I like a trigger with minimal overtravel, but will accept whatever overtravel it takes to have 100% reliability. Personal preference is the guide, just be careful about turning the trigger stop in too far.
  14. My experience is similar to bberkely's. My 610 will run about 40 fps slower than either my Para P16 or Glock 22/Bar-sto which typically run within 10 fps of each other with the same load. The only factory ammo I have tried in the 610 is Federal 10mm 180 lead which runs about 1015 fps. Definitely major.
  15. It was always taken for granted (I assume) at one of my local clubs until one gamer shot over a wall on one stage. No safety rules were violated, but other shooters thought it to be rather unsportsmanlike. After that incident, all course descriptions at that club included words describing wall height. This was usually something like "All walls extend to 83 feet 4 and one half inches in height. If you can get higher than that using existing props, you may shoot over the wall"
  16. Try Charlie Granger at Guntriks, Stockton, CA. http://members.aol.com/guntriks/
  17. dj, Thanks, I agree completely. I'm still playing with the tuning on this gun, so I hesitate to lock anything down quite yet. I just ordered an extra strain screw in case I screw up the original beyond repair. I just need to keep a closer eye on it.
  18. Never had a problem with any other screws, but the strain screw in my 610 backed out enough in yesterday's match to give a couple of light hit misfires. Of course the RO was kind enough not to mention the obvious flinch reaction until after I did.
  19. scotty

    Reloads

    All of you are obviously right handed. I use the method described by TMC, but being a lefty it involves first switching the gun to my weak (right) hand. This would probably change to something similar to spook's method if only I had a revolver that swings out on the proper (right) side.
  20. Everything EricW said. My primer filler works flawlessly with large primers, but with small primers it has the same problems as yours. The B plate is intended for magnum rifle primers which I understand are slightly taller than regular primers. Dillon also recommends it for Remington primers. It may help with the jamming problem. Jiggling the tube helps immensely. I haven't found a totally satisfactory solution for the upside down primer situation. As EricW said, the plate adjustment is rather critical. I have found that keeping the bowl clean with alcohol as per Dillon's instructions has helped but not completely eliminated the problem. Scotty
  21. I have only tried Reloder 19 in my 300 WSM. 66.0 gr. chronoed 2900 with a Speer 150 gr. bullet 68.0 gr. chronoed 2980 Both loads are well under maximum. Winchester CXP3 180 gr. factory ammo chronoed 2970 Haven't had time to work up any further loads. All are shot from a Browning A-bolt 23 " barrel.
  22. I put a Bar-Sto in my G22. The barrel hood needed to be shortened very slightly to fit the slide. I didn't shorten it quite enough the first time and found the slide got hard to rack after 100-200 rounds. A little more clearance made it 100% reliable. The chamber is a lot tighter than stock as the other posters mentioned. I can't say how it compares to the stock barrel, as I have never put the stock one back in. With the addition of nite sites, it is now my home defense gun. Scotty
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