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Son Of The Griz

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    Longmont, Colorado
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    Benjamin Brown

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  1. For Production I shoot with 4 single pouches loaded and 1 mag in the gun. I usually keep a cheap double pouch at the end in case I've got a need for 6+ the start mag. My Limited belt is set up with 3 pouches. I usually start most stages with 1 in the gun and 2 pouches loaded. Even on a LONG stage mag 3 is mainly there as a backup to a borked reload or a malfunction. I've been thinking of adding another pouch to support those weird days I want to reload my Limited gun a lot in L10.
  2. I just got back from a great range session with my P09 and have been eyeballing CZ Custom's slide milling service. Now that I'm learning the CZ triggers I have a feeling I'll be running all hammer guns in USPSA now (a tuned Edge, an SP-01, and my P09). I've been thinking it was just a good range toy to complement my striker guns but I am now giving serious consideration to joining the ProdOptics ranks. 2016 could be a very interesting year. I just wish they'd relax on the magwell rules only because I LOVE the CZ Custom magwell. Oh well... cant have it all. Now I just need to settle on an optic.
  3. A friend of mine bought one and we practice mostly at an indoor facility. So far, no "false" pick-ups with the accelerometer turned on and it seems to work as advertised :-)
  4. I feel your pain... I did the same darn thing a week ago. Either I didn't check my mags and left one from a previous stage or grabbed a short-loaded leftover in my 1st mag pouch. Shot my first mag, moved, reloaded, hit a target, transitioned then went pop-nothin. I think I was riding my slide stop too (whoops) as the tap-rack drill locked the slide to the rear. The 3 seconds it took me to see the problem and get the darn gun fed cost me a couple spots on the stage and I was really surprised to win the division that day... I will definitely be checking each mag before stepping up to the line in the future.
  5. That's "hammer follow" and could potentially become a serious safety issue. I strongly recommend you have a gunsmith look at it and have it fixed ASAP. Is the sear catching the half-cock notch?
  6. +another for "once it's in a safe direction" as well as for learning to ride the thumb safety on the 1911/2011 platform. Coming from the striker-fired camp for carry and competition, this is a question I and many others have had and I expect more folks to ask the same question as they gravitate toward dedicated race guns. I've found the 5/6-step method good for training new shooters to NOT shortcut safety for the sake of speed. Given the potential hazards during the draw, I'm a big of advocate of getting it right before you do it fast. I encourage those who argue to Google "Tex Grebner" :-) Like everything else in our sport, once you get the basics down safely without worrying about the clock, look into consolidating the draw steps. It's my humble opinion that an extra 1 second on the draw (in a match) isn't going to overcome the other areas a new shooter will save time safely.
  7. Thanks, folks. That's how I read it, too. The guy claiming he had to be running a 5" gun was kind of an asshat. I didn't get involved (now I wish I would have) but it definitely sounded way wrong. I'm sure there were a few rule books with us but nobody pressed the issue. Yeah, let's just say he was running his carry gear to do something different that day and while his times were that of a guy reloading after every six or seven shots, he got his As and his gun ran like a champ. More power to him for running his carry rig :-)
  8. At a recent club match I shot there was a shooter who registered in Single Stack and shot his Kimber Ultra Carry (3" gun). One guy in our squad was arguing the Single Stack rules required a 5" gun and that he'd have to shoot L10. Sounded bogus, and Appendix D5 rule 22 (modifications not approved) reads: "Coned barrels, bull barrels, or barrels with flanges, except in 1911 compact pistols with a barrel length of 4.20 inches or less. (Note: All other barrels must have barrel bushings and conform to factory profile)." I think the Kimber shooter got shafted if they kept him in L10. Am I right?
  9. That's exactly what I'm doing with my Edge. I bought a stock CRP Edge from Dawson that's almost taken me to "B" classification (operator shortcomings, not the gun). A good Edge, in my opinion, is a heck of a nice place to start. In a world of custom race guns, it's easy to overlook a basic "stock" 2011-frame gun but there's a TON of potential in both shooter and pistol waiting to be unlocked. As I mentioned in a different post, I've finally taken mine in after about 9 months and 3,000 rounds to start the process of getting it tuned and fitted for me. I'll be about $2700 in by the time I get the slide cut up, but I'm making the changes that will best work for me and am working them in stages with my gunsmith, who's been GREAT about explaining exactly what we'll be doing and why. I say go for it and don't look back.
  10. I've only met one shooter who owns an STI Limited gun in 9mm and he said he regretted buying it in 9 (it was a really nice Brazos tuned Edge). He really didn't realize any benefit in being forced to shoot Minor. As others have mentioned, going .40 gives you the chance to play in Major scoring and load down if you prefer a softer gun at the expense of Minor scoring. Now for my two-penny advice. You've got a GREAT starting budget - I heartily second buying a Brazos or Dawson-tuned gun, several magazines, a Dillon 550 or 650 and components, and shooting as much as possible. As you learn your gun you'll figure out what you want to do to fit it to your hands and your style of shooting. When the time comes to tune it up, there are some phenomenal builders out there who can hook you up with the perfect mix of fit, action, and slide lightening.
  11. I had some fit issues with the safeties on my Edge and have been battling the grip safety as well. The "relieved" grip safety STI puts on the gun (I assume the Eagle is set up the same) was giving me a hell of a sore thumb. The thumb safeties were too sharp and too narrow, as well. On a normal 1911 frame they don't bite but on the double-stack frame I couldn't ride them instinctively without coming off the edge. I took mine in to Rick Hebert to get replaced and can't wait to get it back this Friday; he is performing a grip reduction, fitting an EGW grip safety (disabled & pinned for USPSA games), fitting and polishing an Ed Brown wide ambi thumb safety, and dropping in an EGW steel mainspring housing. For IDPA I could see a fitted, tuned grip safety helping the "bite" as well as taking care of the dead gun problem.
  12. Huge thanks to Charlie and his very dedicated range and match staff for an AWESOME experience at the Mile High Showdown. Every stage offered a unique challenge - and plenty of opportunity to rise to them or melt down spectacularly (I did both!).
  13. Friends, I am squarely in the 'bluing wear is cool' camp, but ugly scratches through the bluing from imperfections in the holster suck. My wife wasn't digging it, either, and she shoots USPSA with me. And, for the record, we have to be the only ones who think premature wear on a $2000+ gun is cool :-)
  14. Thanks... I'm thinking the DAA Race Master may be the way to go for my Limited / L10 setup. Coming from Production, i like the idea of a full-coverage holster but maybe it's time to move into race gear. If Blade Tech won't help me out I may just sell the DOH and move on. Comp-Tac, DAA, Ready Tactical, and others make quality kydex.
  15. I'm a fan of the hybrids for IWB CCW carry. I've owned the MTAC for a Kahr P45, which I liked a LOT, and currently use a Garrett Silent Thunder for a small revolver. The MTAC takes up a bit of real estate but is very comfortable. I never had a problem on reholster but the top will confirm to your body a bit over time. No big deal for a very nice body shield. The Garrett is a nice holster, their "feature" is leather-lining the kydex side of the holster. Truthfully, I think that might appeal to the old leather folks but doesn't add a ton of value for me (I'm a kydex fan in general) beyond protecting the finish a little. My Silent Thunder is certainly comfy, and I mainly bought it for the size and single offset clip. Given you're driving a G19, you're likely to find a gazillion choices but, in general, leather on the body and kydex on the outside is definitely the way to roll (as long as you buy a quality holster).
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