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ChopperDoc

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Everything posted by ChopperDoc

  1. There are no set fees. My advice would be to visit your local FFL and ask.
  2. Anyone used the ghoast sights? the ones with the full circle at the rear?
  3. I have a G41 coming next week. Thinking about fiber optic sights. Who has used what and what do you think about them? What would you recomend, not recomend? Thanks Vic
  4. Got a call from C- More today. Paid 67 bucks to cover the repair plus shipping. should have it back by the end of the week.
  5. Send it in last week, $55 fee to "re-body". They told me 2-3 day turnaround. I'll up date you'all when it arrives. Thanks Vic
  6. Thats great news; $55 is better than the cost of a new now for sure! thanks Vic
  7. While getting ready for the Alabama NSSF State Rimfire Challenge I placed my gun case on a chair then placed my 10-22 on the case. I turned around and the next thing I know the rifle was clanging on the cement floor of my shop. The C-More was broken (see picture). Yesterday at the match one of my buddies said I should send it back to C-More and they would fix or replace it free. Any of you guys ever hear of them doing this? It was totally my fault. The red dot still works but as you can see the frame is trashed. Thanks in advance... Vic
  8. I just installed a Carver mount and C- More on my buddy’s G35. We have been looking at holster options. I run a CR Speed on my compensated G17 with a SJC C More mount. His will not fit in my holster. Carver offers a “modified” CR Speed holster for 190 bucks. Before he drops that much cash down on a holster we were wondering what other options are available. What are you guys using? Please post some photos too Thanks Vic
  9. Called glock today. They are sending a new pin.
  10. Thanks for all the replys .. I double checked..I did have he correct pin in the correct place. This is a newer gen 3 gun. The top locking block pin does not have a groove. It is shouldered for lack of a better term. The ends that sit in the frame are larger than the section in the middle. Today I took it apart again, cleaned all traces of oil from the pin and frame holes. Took it to the range and shot 4 mags. The pin already started to work its way out again. The slide release spring sits tight against the pin, it is not bent. I tried to call Glock customer service today but it was too late in the day to catch them; I will try again tomorrow. I'll let you all know what they say. Vic Almost forgot..I cleaned the heck out of the G17 open gun. Lots of small brass bits came out! It was pretty grimy. I am guilty of not cleaning it in a very long time. I did order a replacement spring just for the heck of it. I put three mags thru it today and it ran fine.
  11. The extractor is stock . I am running this pistol as a 9mm Major open gun. 8 grains of HS6 is pretty stout. Could I have bent or damaged the extractor? What is a good aftermarket replacement? The pin issue in the G34 is the upper, smaller diameter pin in the locking block. Sorry I wasn't more clear earlier. Thanks
  12. A friend and I shot a USPSA match today and we each had some problems with our Glocks that maybe someone out here can shed some light on. Ill start off with his; it is an almost new third gen G34. He put about 100 rounds thru it last weekend and then I broke it down and replace the connector and springs. The next time he fired it (after I did the work) the upper pin started to drift out during firing. Today during the match it did it again after about 75-80 rounds. It was pretty tight when I removed and reinstalled it. I have several Glocks of my own each with thousands of rounds thru them and I never had a pin drift like this one. Second is my third gen Open G17. C-More, comp, the works. I built it about two years ago and have at least couple thousand rounds thru her. Had my first ever failures today. Al were FTE. Happened with all 5 mags so I can rule out a mag problem. It ran fine for the first two stages then it started to FTE several times during the three remaining stages. They were stove pipes. All rounds went bang, I am shooting 9mm Major. I havent cleaned it in a while but Ive gone this long without cleaning before. What should I check? Any ideas where to start? Thanks
  13. Can someone tell me what is the correct battery for the C- More slideride and where is the best place to get them? Thanks Vic
  14. You might want to consider one of the extended take down latches. They are under 10 bucks, I think I got mine from Midway. It hardly looks any longer but you can really feel the difference when trying to depress the latch with the mount installed
  15. Well like I said, I no experance with anything other than 3rd gen Glocks. Since the trigger assy parts are interchangable from 2nd to 3rd gen gun I would think the trigger pin hole is in the same place. What I did was to install the mount with the screw that replaces the trigger pin , position the mount where I wanted it, clamp it then drill a pilot holes on each side. I removed the mount and opened the hole up to the size of the bushings. Heat up the bushing to seat them.
  16. I have several Glocks ( G17, 35, 34, & 21) but all are 3rd Gen. Yes, the 3rd gen guns have the extra pin in the locking block. However, it does not change the installation of the mount
  17. Not really sure what you are asking. Since the main difference between the 2nd Gen & 3rd Gen are the grip bumps and rail, there should not be much difference, installation wise. As mentioned earlier in this post, I had to have the ejection port milled down (lowered). I have a friend who has the greatest machine shop in his backyard so he handled that for me. I used a drill press to drill the frame but I'd bet that SJC has a jig they use. Properly positioning the frame while you drill it is the biggest concern. I am an FAA A&P mechanic and have past experience drilling & installing modifications on helicopters so I felt I could tackle this. The second biggest challenge was to heat the bushings so that they would seat completely in the frame. This is what took some time to figure out. What I ended up doing is buying a Weller heat tool. It is similar to a soldering iron but specifically made for cutting & shaping plastic objects. (20 bucks in Loews). It came with a pin shaped tip which I threaded to the same size as the bushing so I was able to insert the bushing, thread the pin & heat the bushing enough to pull it into the plastic far enough to seat it. If it is not seated all the way, the slide will rub on it. Like I mentioned, lots of trial & error & knowing when to quit for the night before you screw something up! I wanted to do it myself and save the cost & hassle of sending it to them. If I lived within driving distance, I would have had SJC do it.
  18. What Magwell is that on this gun in the picture? I think it is from JP enterprizes. I got it either from Brownells or Midway, I don't remember which. I like it for the way it helps position my hand on the grip as well as helping speed up reloads
  19. Kerry Pinkerton milled the port down for me
  20. Thanks Mark..Did you see the pictures of the gun that I posted? http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=117369&st=0&p=1367169&fromsearch=1entry1367169 Vic
  21. Finally got my C-More mounted on my Glock. It is new and the rotary switch sure is hard to turn. I thought I read somewhere about a knob that mounts on the C-More factory knob (switch). Anyone use them and can make a recommendation? Good ones? Types to stay away from? Thanks Vic
  22. Took some pictures tonight. Wife is out of town with the good camera (thats my story & I'm sticking to it!)
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