Rush
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Posts posted by Rush
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Benny,
How can one tell if the gun is unlocking prematurely?
Thanks in advance.
This is interesting... what happens when the slide unlocks prematurely and what causes this? Long term and short term damage we should look for?
Much thanks.. this got me thinking...
Regards,
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Carlos, thanks for this and its a great read...
What's been the experience for guns which have been hardchromed? will bead blasting remove the hard chroming ok for the gun to be parkerized?
Also, how durable is a parkerized finish? Bluing is ok.. but i find its is more prone to rust and you need to be more careful and pay more attention to cleaning...
Regards,
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the quality of the parts/guns from the S_I groups are a bit noticeable these days... perhaps it also due to the fact that we have forums now where people can "advertise" their problems more quickly.. but i think the S_I guns still run better than most of the guns from other outfits out there... we just get to hear of their problems easier...
I wouldn't be to down about it.. give Chuck and Chris of STI a call... they'll fix it... I had a problem with a RM a while back and they fixed that very quickly..... good luck and safe shooting..
Regards,
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Thanks... but these ar new mags.. funny, first time i've found STI mags to have problems.. my super mags were troublefree...
i was using the 126mm tubes yesterday with the stock sti followers instead as the arredondo followers wouldn't work... and the same thing happened again with the stock followers... I looked at the tubes more closely, specifically at the mag catch slot in the tube, the slots were jagged and very rough.. I'm going to try to smooth out the slot edges and see if that corrects the problem... hopefully a little sanding/polishing to round off the jags will cure it...
That being said, the only danger now is opening up the slot to much? Right...
Best regards
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Hi everyone... I've got 3 STI 126mm, 40 cal mags. The problem is, when i replace the STI follower with an arredondo one (red), the arredondo followers get caught on the mag catch slot and get jammed....
no problems with the STI follower though, except the capacity is reduced to 16 rds.
Would anyone know how this could be fixed? The mags are all brand new...
With the arredondo follower, I get 17 in the mags. W/o, its only 16... This is for IPSC style shooting...
I've done a search, but this problem doesn't seem to have been discussed before
Thanks in Advance and Regards,
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Definietly need a racker... My new open gun didn't have one... on condition 2 stages, I found I would be racking the c-more at times
My rackers on the right side of the slide, I'm right handed...
borrow a gun with a racker and experiment with it abit. It seems to be a personal thing. I thought I could live without one, but that didn't work out to well...
Regards,
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I know this is kind of an old thread ,but I thought this my be of interest to those who do not like wearing cleats all day long. Nike has a line of shoes called ACG(all conditions gear) they have several varities,but the point is they have an aggressive cleat style bottom while using a more comfortable inner shoe.Nike evens offers a gore tex option for nastier climates. I just bought a pair of their Trigo II, they are the most aggresive tread I found in the ACG line. Our local club match isn't till the 25,but I plan on giving them a good work out since our stages are usualy run and gun high round count. Let ya'll know how they do.
Definitely cleats... I've slipped and tripped on the ACG's... the soles also want to separate from the shoe very quickly...
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What i did do was with the springco in, I marked the whole area at the back of the flange with a pentel pen. Put it in the gun and just left it there over a weekend of heavy shooting....
When I took it out, the pentel markings had been erased where the flange contacts/meets the frame and on the button at the rear of the flange... so i infer the link/lug and the button of the springco are hitting each other... I have a clark/para cut type barrel.
I'm just not "technical" enough to be able to categorically say if this is "acceptable" in the interest of reliability... and my wallet
but i do like the springco... solid construction all around...
Regards,
Rob
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Hi All..
just wanted to update progress on this ... and share/obtain some insights...
- the protrusion of the springco (at least my one) is about 0.059 of an inch... (finally took out the caliper)
- the length of the springco and the common SS guide rod is the same... not exactly the same, but minor...
- with the slide, barrel and springco only, there is no prortusion. There is none whatsoever in the normal SS guide rod.
- with the slide, barrel, springco mounted on the frame and with the slide lock, there is a protrusion of 0.059 of an inch.
- I've trimmed the ears of the flange by about 45 degrees... so there's little interference with the slide... and there's allowable movement of the springco.
- had to remove a little of the reverse plug end off (a wee bit of it) as it was also protruding. The reverse plug is now flush with the frame so it doesn't interfere with the comp.
So basically, just my thinking,
- it appears that the springco is being pushed forward by the barrel lug or link pin when the slide stop is in place. but only on the springco... doesn't happen on the normal SS guide rod.
- The springo flange is actually thinner than the SS guide rod flange so I can't see why it would do this...
The gun functions ok even with the little protrusion from the springco... however, the question i've got now are..
(a) is the gun ok to use this way?
(
will i end up accelerating breakage of a part with the barrel and/or link pushing the springco forward? Like the link pin, lower barrel lug,. slide stop break early? Thanks again.. and advanced happy thanksgiving...
Regards,
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Thanks Vince... i've just never seen it done here when we're on the line... when we go to the line, everyone, that i've seen is prepped to "LAMR" and "go" at the beep... normally, what happens before drawing and loading will be to "airgun" and/or or practice a launch to the first position...
I can just imagine the RO's reaction
if i did that 
and the ensuing debate thereafter... You keep learning something new each day
Regards,
Rob
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Just to update... I measured the "button" on the flange head... it's ok with the smaller recess of the frame where it's supposed to rest against.. I then placed the springco against the frame.. it fits just like tribursts springco, and seats fully against the frame. Alan did reduced the button size to accomodate the S_I's smaller recess as compared to other 1911's.
So compared total lengths of two guide rods... they are visually, the same length. (Springco and SS guide rod).... the only difference between the two is the contour/shape of the flange. My old one had its "ears" reduced vs the stock springco...
My old guide rod did not have the "ears" of the springco... My thinking now, is its the "ears"... or the tips of the "U" in the flange that may be contacting something on the frame prefenting the springco from fully seating... question is what?
I'm going to grind down the "ears" of the springco and see if that works. Other than that, bummer... what else could cause the springco to move forward? Barrel link? Barrel? Springs?
2011's.... go figure.. but I love em!
Regards & Thanks again...
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... ummmmm, you're allowed to do a practice run after the LAMR command? even if the gun is unloaded? I assume this is IPSC style so...
... here in the Phils, i think they'd DQ me automatically if i did that...
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Eric, Triburst... Great pics there and very helpful...
My error, 1/4" is too much
... more likely 1/8th... sorry about that... looking at triburst pics... I get about the same amount of protrusion. The frame fit on my springco seems ok... but i'll do what Eric recommends and make sure the button fits ok into the recess. Not particularly sure yet, so out with the caliper
Triburst, did you trim the ears on the flange head? Your springco looks like its been trimmed... I'm thinking of doing the same. Alan has also recommended that i check and trim if necessary this part...
So I may trim the flang head "ears" a bit... wish i could post some pics of the springco and my old guide rod... planning to file it at some 45 degree angle and remove some material there...
Just the info i needed and great forum... thanks again guys..
Regards,
Rob
PS.. how do you post the pics?
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Hi All...
Just got a springco and tried dropping it in my 5" STI, open gun. Thing is, springco is protruding about 1/4" out of the reverese plug when the gun is in battery....
Alan did say that there may be some minor fitting required.... so I'm hoping to get a head start by asking for some advice on what to do to get the springco to seat properly on the frame. I compared it to the standard guide rod and they're about the same length. So i guess its something on the slide/frame that's causing it not to seat properly on the frame when the whole gun is assembled.... has anyone had a similar problem? how did you fix it?
(I locked the file set away until i'm sure on what to do
) Thanks all in advance..
Regards,
Rush
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Get the arredondo one. they seat better and the two i bought were drop in and fit flush on the module and the c-more...
on the limcat, wasn't as great a fit.....
but if you are shooting in bright sunlight... they help allot....
Regards,
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I'd keep a single piece guide rod readily availble... my RM decided to "fuse" in the middle of a 16 rd stage... the reverse plug, recoil spring and recoil master are now one unit....
I am now going back to the standard, single piece guide rod.. no more gizmo's...
Regards,
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Thanks TBF.. gives me confidence to fit a slide on to the frame... I don't want to pound anything on the frame and i think your way of doing w/o machining/filing gives a better overall fit.. when you finish it, let us know what groups you get..
Regards,
Rob
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Also if you have access to Matt Burkett's DVD on how to shoot faster he has a section on curing flinch. I believe one way he suggests is to close your eyes and fire a few shots so you can become aware that the gun is not going to hurt you. The other thing Matt suggests is to shoot several magazines as fast as you can because Matt says that you cannot flinch as fast as you shoot......
agree with this... the flinch is just something you need to notice. Often enough, if i've not been able to do live fire for a week or so, I'll find its somehow worked its way back in.. so its no big thing and you just need to "know" you're flinching and "force" yourself to keep you eyes open and nopt blink..
I've varied matt's exercise a bit, I take aim at what i want to hit, close my eyes, concentrate on the trigger pull, break the shot... 99% of the time, you'll hit what you were aimed at... do a few rounds like that.. I also use the same exercise to demonstrate to new shooters how to call shots because they normally work to hard at it... if you know what i mean... just gets them to the important fundamental of sight picture, alignment and trigger control...
my .02cents... good luck on your shooting...
Regards
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Hi Newguy,
I had an extra two springs. When I bought the aftec, it came with 4 springs, 2 of which were spares... got to use those. As they were stiff initially, i just compressed the new springs with pliers for about 30 seconds each...
Regards,
Rob
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hmm.. i've started out on a 12... but went back to an 8 for IPSC style shooting... now am thinking of a 6 as it seems better for those really technical stages (far targets, swingers, tight shots) which seem to quite popular these days...
does anyone notice a significant difference between a 8 and 6 moa?
Regards,
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finally got it solved... thanks to everyone around for the good advice and support... 80rds of rapid fire and the shells were landing in there abouts the same place (2-3 meters) away, just to my right... and there were no marks on my scope mount
so what i did, in the hopes that this may be of some use to others... is...
a. replaced the aftec springs...
b. filed and angled the ejector similar to what Bob has got on his web page on tuning ejectors, but it was easier now as he'd told me what i needed to look for in order to shape the ejector... by observing the scope mount and ejector port...
Thanks lots to Bob as well... and to everyone... safe shooting..
Regards,.
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TBF,
Congratulations and how did you fit the slide - frame? Are there any good links/articles that shows you how to fit a slide to a frame.. I've got this long dustcover frame that's in need of a slide and i want to see if I could do better than the STI OEM shop... also a wanna be gunsmith/mechanic here....
Regards,
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Thanks... I'm using a light recoil master. I'll try looking at shots w/o the mag, and then seeing how it behaves without the RM installed....
E-mailed Bob.. but couldn't wait for his reply on what to do.. so just ordered one of his tuned ejectors. the only thing is, his tuned ejectors are for in 45acp or 9mm/40cal. I assume that the 9mm/40 is also used for 38s race guns and that's what i ordered... exasperated and desparate... I've got a level 3 coming up and this guns gotta work by Thursday at the latest
otherwise, i ain't going I checked the aftec, and it holds the shells snugly... feeding is ok so i'm ruling out the extractor and concentrating on the ejector for the meantime..
Again, thanks for the advice. Finished all my ammo yesterday.. so gotta load some and then head back out to finish testing and tuning......
Much thanks and Regards,
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wide45,
i never tested it w/o the mag.. it was either slow fire or a full mag.... you learn something new everytday i guess... thanks for this...
let em test it out.. I should be able to see if its the next rd that's knocking the ejecting case into the scope mount? right? let me know if i'm wrong...
Regards & thanks.
Rob
will i end up accelerating breakage of a part with the barrel and/or link pushing the springco forward? Like the link pin, lower barrel lug,. slide stop break early? 
if i did that 
and the ensuing debate thereafter... 
otherwise, i ain't going
Lighten your slide
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
Thanks Benny... I run a light slide with a light recoil master... on my primers (38super), I normally see the firing pin indentation with another very little indentation right next to it on my shells. The thread made me think... I have a limcat extended firing pin.
I'll try and switch out the firing pin spring with a stronger one. See if this fixes it. What's the best solution to this problem? Is it a barrel fit issue?
Thanks & Regards,