Jamie520

It's .140 straight up above the old hole and it's measured center to center. Anything less than .140 and you're lucky to activate the FP safety plunger causing light strikes because it isn't pushed up out of the way enough. Follow the magic number and place the hole in the TRIGGER PAD exactly as Joe D shows you in his original thread and that will get you started. I've never had one come out perfect on the new trigger bars on the first try. It usually takes a little heating and bending of the cruciform to adjust the striker/sear engagement. Reworking the trigger bar nose will lessen the felt pull also as well as giving a dramatically shorter reset but should only be done if you have plenty of overtravel to play with. Take too much off here and you won't have enough reward movement for the trigger to break cleanly and reliably.

It's .140 straight up above the old hole and it's measured center to center. Anything less than .140 and you're lucky to activate the FP safety plunger causing light strikes because it isn't pushed up out of the way enough. Follow the magic number and place the hole in the TRIGGER PAD exactly as Joe D shows you in his original thread and that will get you started. I've never had one come out perfect on the new trigger bars on the first try. It usually takes a little heating and bending of the cruciform to adjust the striker/sear engagement. Reworking the trigger bar nose will lessen the felt pull also as well as giving a dramatically shorter reset but should only be done if you have plenty of overtravel to play with. Take too much off here and you won't have enough reward movement for the trigger to break cleanly and reliably.

I just used I think a 5/32 bit 2 ream the holes a little. This is a great trigger if you can get it right bit I've ruined a fee trigger bars and pads along the way