bessy
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Posts posted by bessy
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Quick question.....Stacking feeling comes due to a long spring or vise versa? ?
Mj
So I assumed that stacking feeling came from a spring that was two long, but it appears that's not always the case. In my specific case, the longer Extreme hammer spring had no real stacking, while wuth the shorter wolf 14lb spring I felt it stacking at the end. Stacking is generally caused by a spring having a non linear compression force, what I mean by that is as the spring compression the amount of force required to compress it further goes up exponentially. This can be caused by a spring that is to long, but that's of course not always the case.
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I think the one piece sear is good. Less moving parts is less likely something breaking if you ask me. I put the Extreme hammer in my pair of Stock II's and I think it was worth it. The hammer seems to hit the back plate with more force so less likely of a light strike. You have to fit the sear to the safety as the extreme hammer pushes it forward for lack of better words.
Do I need to mess with the interrupter at all, or just swap out the sear, and hammer? I understand the need to fit the sear to the safety... that makes sense, as the hammer hook locations/geometry are going be changed.
I don't have access to a range in my shop, so here is how I "test" firing pin force. I throw a pencil down the barrel, and the note how height it is tossed when I pull the trigger. This gives me a gross comparison point to look at when I swap parts around. Just a little trick I picked when trying to tune revo's.
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If you're going to cover them in grip tape why not try these: http://eaacorp.com/gun_accessories/index.php/parts/tanfolio/witness/grips/large-frame-fullsize-plastic-grips.html ?
I've got a set of those on my match... They work in a pinch, but they just aren't quite right. I can't quite put my finger on it. I really wish henning would make his large frame grips again those are the bomb.
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Hey guys,
I have a set of EG's extreme gribs for a stock II (like new), I'd like to swap them out for a set of either Henning, or EG's grips for a match, or stock I. I'd prefer hennings, but anything skinny at this point would be great. Grips I'm swapping for don't need to like new, as I'm just going to cover them with grip tape any way ;-)
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Alright guys,
Five hours of my life gone, and here is were I'm at.
I completed the steps I outlined above,
The gun went from around 12lbs double action to right around 6.75
Single action was 4-5 before, and is now right around 3.5-3.75
Certainly in the realm of shootable, but the stock II that jim from shooter ready did for me puts it to shame.
I was able to get these results by simply swapping springs and using a henning extra long firing pin.
No fancy hammer or trigger. I didn't bother swapping out the sear, with a single piece.
I played around a little with other hammer springs, here is what I've found,
The wolf 14 lbs hammer spring was much shorter than the extreme hammer spring of comparable weight, when I tried that out, I ended up with a heavier double action trigger, with more stacking toward the end, but a better single action trigger then with the extreme springs. 3 lbs 4 ozs as opposed to say 3lbs.10 ozs.
I cut one coil off the wolf 14 lb hammer spring, just for shits and giggles. That yielded an improved double action trigger,but there still seemed to be some stacking, it also didn't seem to launch a pencil out of the barrel as well as the extreme hammer spring, so I'm wondering if ignition would get dicey.
I think the extreme hammer springs are the way to go.
I did notice that the firing pin block hung a up a couple times with new henning firing pin, so I'll need to sort that out.
I'd also be interested in what you all have to say about the extreme hammer, and one piece sear.. If they are worth the investment or not.
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I'm using a 14lb hammer spring with the XL Henning pin, cut three coils from the FP spring (read it somewhere) and I still have a light strike occasionally.
I run a 14 lb hammer spring and a henning XL firing pin in my limited gun. I've never gotten a light primmer strike, and I use RIFLE primers in my 40 major loads. It's probably your over-travel screw.
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Hey guys,
I've read through the various walk throughs here. I'm in the process of polishing up various surfaces and swapping out springs in my stock 1 9mm. I need to keep the gun production legal for USPSA.I wanted some clarification on parts.
Here is my current plan of action.
1. Polish up all the parts outlined in atlas's cz guide, (I've already polished the crap out of the plunger assembly).
2. Cut down the plunger spring a coil,3. I'm replacing the hammer spring with a Extreme hammer spring at 13.8 lbs.
4. Replacing firing pin, with the henning extra long one (the one cut for the firing pin safety).
5. Replace firing pin spring with the the extreme light firing pin spring.
6. Replace the shorter mag release with an extended one (Like the one that ships with the stock II or match).
7. Throw in a 9 lb recoils spring.
I also have a single piece sear and interrupter sitting around.
So here is my question:
Would you just stick with the stock two piece sear, and delta hammer, or do you think it's worth it to try out the single piece sear and interrupter with the the stock hammer? Any further guidance you folks could give with regard to polishing up the fcg?
~Thanks a ton!
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Just wanted to update here.
I talked to henning on the phone today. His current rear sight (which is the same as his old fixed rear sight is designed to work with a front sight of .180 height. He used to sell a front sight with a height of .140 but no longer does. Looks like a henning rear for me. with either a dawson or a henning front.
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It was a Henning sight but he isn't listing it for sale separately. Just in this kit: http://henningshop.com/products/tanfoglio-front-rear-sight-target-set-hwmc
So,
according to that link it looks like for that sight set the height is .105. This matches the front sight set I have on my match currently.. which seems too short. So I'm going to give the henning shop a call on monday and see if they still offer the .140 height.
I sent you a PM about your used set, I'm very interested ;-)
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The .140 front and the Henning fixed rear were spot on for on my Stock 1
Nealio,
I assume you mean the henning .140 front sight? I don't see it listed anymore on his shop, or is this something you had dawson for you?
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Hey guys,
I recently (tonight), happened upon a stock 1 for a decent price and picked it up. My intention is to make it the backup to for my stock II. I currently own a stockII, limited, and match. I have a few questions I was hoping to pick some brains.
1. I noticed the stock 1 has no over travel adjustment, and the magazine release is not extended. Can I swap those parts out and still be legal for production? ( I see eaa sells both as OEM parts). If so anyone know where I could source a trigger with over travel, and an extend magazine release? One of you guys must have take offs maybe? ;-P
2. Sights, I'm going to swap out the stock sights. I'm leaning towards henning's sights, I have a set of these on my match gun, my only issue is that the front sight, seems a little short.... I know henning used to offer two versions of his match/stock sights (Target/Defensive). Now I only see one... so I'm wondering if maybe the design has changed, and maybe the front sight has a little more height. Any recommendations here? I'm open to suggestions.
3. Does henning still sell grip panels for large frame custom guns like the stock1.
I appreciate all of your time.
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Alrght,
I had a chance to play with a 650. While I haven't played with a 1050 yet. I can honestly say I think the 650 will kick the snot out of my current setup. I went ahead and ordered a 650. I did really think hard about the 1050, but I decided on the 650. I think it will more than meet my needs, and if I need too I can add a bullet feeder. Thanks for all your input guys!
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Alright guys, here's where I am at.
I've been running a LNL AP for about 5 years. I load somewhere in the neighborhood 10-20k a year, of various calibers. I've slowly upgraded the LNL to include a case feeder/bullet feeder etc. I've pretty much ditched the bullet feeder because it doesn't work with moly coated rounds which is what I primarily use.
The LNL is very easy to swap over, aside from the case feeder.. I can do high volume pistol on it but even with the case feeder I top out around 400-500 an hour. If I'm on fire I might see 600, but that is very rare.
Here are my thoughts.
1. I'm wanting a second press that I can leave setup with my primary caliber (9mm, or 40 depending on if I'm shooting limited or production)
2. I feel like the lnl does an exceptional job with rifle.. and I have all the odd ball conversions and tweaks for it. (i've had to dick around with it for years so I have it figured out at this point) It swaps between calibers very quickly. I'm thinking I will keep it for all my odd ball loading.
3. I'm not sure if I should buy a 650 or a 1050 for my second press. I realize my volume probably doesn't justify a 1050, but I don't really think I will benefit for the lower conversion costs of a 650 since I will probably only use it for 1 or 2 calibers. The swagging feature on the 1050 also is nifty.. as I could get rid of my super swage.
4. As I have a c&r ffl... I'm looking at grafs and a 650 with case feeder is going to run me around 700 shipped, Where as a 1050 is going to run around 1500...
What do you guys think?
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leas327,
If you tighten the lockwasher that way you risk cracking the shellplate.
Also you have not learned how to correctly install the spring.
Google for "HORNADY LNL-AP PRESS SET UP HINTS AND TRICKS".
A complete video series on the press by 76highboy
The complete series is available at thefirearmsforum also
in the reloading forum.
The viseo series is great to watch and learn.
You are not going crack the sellplate tightening it that way... Adding a lock washer doesn't change the way tighten the shell plate.
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Mentioned this in another thread, but I figure I'd stick it here. I'm looking for a sear cage, used is fine, let me know if you can hook a brother up.
~Thanks
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If anyone is wondering how I solved this.. here is how. After a conversation with jim, we went over my options. I ended up shorting up the sear leg by a small amount, this seemed to do the trick, I can no longer reproduce the problem.
Anyone have a spare sear cage lying around? I'd like to have one in my back pocket in case the issue returns.
~Greg
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JayJay,
Figured I would chime in..
I own an LNL have turned out many tens of thousands of rounds on it. I have struggled with my case feed for a while, but finally got working as it should.
You can make them run right, but it wasn't easy for me. and I still occasionally have an issue with 45/9mm not dropping from the feed wheel and causing the wheel to hang up until I pop them free... but from what I understand this happens with the dillion system as well.
I could detail everything I did, to make it run correctly. Problems can stem from a number of different places. From improperly manufactured shell plates (which is no longer an issue), to parts needing polishing. Ultimately I think the the LNL is a BETTER and SIMPLER press than the 650... but it falls short in it's implementation. Where as the 650 while a more complicated design, is implemented EXCELLENTLY.
I know every press is different and every press has issues... if I wasn't so vested in the LNL, I would be considering swapping to a 650 of 1050.
As it sits now... I'm happy with how LNL works, and it meets and exceeds my needs. I just wish it would have SHIPPED that way.
Many of the problems I have troubleshooted in the LNL stemmed from very simple issues. For instance... the push rod that runs the actuator on the case feeder was rough... and not polished. I struggled with this for weeks. I couldn't figure out why the arm that attaches to the lower end of the tube was bending up ward after extended use... I had polished all the bearing surfaces.. Finally I pulled apart the push rod and noticed the machine marks and roughness... any side load on that at all and it would bind. I chucked it in a drill and polished it up... bam everything ran like a champ. So my questions is why didn't it shipped polished?
Hornady has been very good to me and replaced and furnished me with new parts. I can't fault their customer service, but I do sometimes I do get parts that are quite frankly...just no good... or need finishing work.
I vote for the 650...
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Hey guys,
I'm not sure if this has been posted here before but I figure I might as well share an experiment.
Recently I've noticed that with 9mm, some powder was spilling out between stations. I've also been shooting some revo, and I've had to hand seat primers below flush to get reliable ignition. I came across this shim fix for the LNL. I tried it out and it solved my issues.
By shimming the the bearing surface between the drive hub, and subplate assembly i was able to get less snappy indexing, and my primers are now seating below flush.
Here is the fix in detail...
http://www.ar15.com/mobile/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=414607&page=1
Let me know what you guys think..
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This is one of the few faults of this gun design. On some guns, they develop just enough slack (excess clearance) in the sear cage to frame fit to cause goofy issues like this.
You will only notice it when two things happen: you actually move the sear cage by placing a lot of pressure on the thumb safety and you very precisely (ie, slowly) depress the trigger. It alters the geometry just enough that the hammer catches the half cock on the hammer. In a match, you are more forceful with trigger press and it doesn't happen.
The jolt you feel is the hammer hitting the sear which is mounted in the sear cage of course.
The fix? Multiple paths and all involve changing some parts Easiest is install new sear cage, sear and hammer (and possibly safety).
Jim
Hey jim,
I was just going to give you a call, and here you come to the rescue. As I mentioned earlier I haven't yet had it happen in match. I guess my primary concern was that it would work loose and become a common occurrence. Right now I really have to try to make it happen, and even then it doesn't happen every time. I really like the trigger you did for me... so id rather not swap out all the parts. I take it that swapping out just the sear cage isn't going to jive, and that the sear and hammer will all need to be fit to the new cage? Any chance I could shorten the 1/2 cock hammer hooks?.. I have a set of feeler gauges, so if you let me know what they should be at I can check them.
I'm on vacation next week, so I won't have time to screw around with anything, I'll try to get in touch with you when I get back.
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You could have a situation where the hammer is in fact falling all the way down onto the firing pin, then bouncing back to half cock. This is easily checked by doing the Pencil test. Put a pencil into the barrel so the rubber end is resting against the breach face where the firing pin would strike it. Then recreate the hammer falling to half cock scenario. If the Pencil flys out or even moves forward you know the firing pin is striking the eraser and the failure mode is the bouncing back to half cock after it hits the firing pin.
I've used the pencil test before.... I should have really thought to try that. I don't think that it's the case.. but at least now I can verify my assumption.
~Thanks again.
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Do this. Take the slide off the gun, then take the sear cage out of the frame. Reinstall the safety so you can observe how the plunger in the safety engages the detents in the frame. There should be two distinct positions where the plunger rests into (Safe position and Fire position). Recreate your additional safety pressure condition and observe the position of the plunger. Is it going past the "Fire" detent, basically creating an over rotated safety condition? If that is the case you need to make some changes to the detent in the frame so the plunger can't be pushed beyond that point. Another thing to look at is the large round portion of the safety that seats into the left side of the frame. The top of that rounded portion is cut off to make room for the rail in the slide. If you excessively over rotate the safety lever the edge of the rounded portion on the safety can push up against the underside of the slide rail. This is also easily observed by looking down the rail notch in the frame from the back side of the gun, then holding down the safety and see if any of the rounded portion of the safety comes up into the rail notch. You may have to take some additional material off the rounded portion to keep the safety from pushing up into the slide.
CHA -LEE
thanks for the info. I cleaned everything out last night, and started investigating. The Interaction between the slide and safety seems a very promising avenue of investigation, as I can't seem to reproduce the issue when the slide is removed from the frame. I'm also running jims firing pin, so I'm wondering if there could be something wonky with interaction between firing pin block, and firing pin and FCG. I may not get to it tonight but I will investigate as time allows, and report back when I have new data. Thanks a ton!
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I backed the overtravel screw all the way out. I can still make the issue happen. Hammer is stopping at half cock, and I can feel a small jolt in the safety when the malfunction occurs. Any ideas?
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Put some more over travel in the trigger and retest.
So by put more do you mean, make the over travel more generous... or less generous. I'm assuming this is stemming from my over travel screw being screwed in too far and I need to back it out. Thereby increasing my over travel. I'll give it shot and let you know.
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Hey guys,
I've had a stock II in 9mm for about a year. The trigger was done by jim bodkins at shooter ready. I noticed something at my match tonight when I was dry firing at the safety table.
If i ride my safety (press on it with my thumb) in single action... sometimes the hammer only falls to half cock. While I haven't had this happen to me in a match yet, I'm worried the problem may materialize at a major which would be bad. I can't seem to reproduce the issue in double action... only single action. It only occurs when I push forcefully with my strong hand thumb on the safety,.
Any ideas where I should start with regards to trouble shooting?
Stock 1 Trigger work overview and question.
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
Posted
Thanks for clarification... that makes sense