38super

Flimsy, yeah when a 300lb score keepers steps on'em.

Yes, both USPSA and Steel Challenge. 1/4 size Classic and steel (4" & 6x8"). Scaled for indoor range distances. Outer Limits far plates are 2.4"x4". Tilt the plates down to reduce splatter. Best name I've heard was RIPSC. PM if you have ??s. Sure helped improve my SC first shot times (holster). Saw your other post, doubt USPSA will add a classification for RF. Never hurts to ask.

Slide hole diameter 0.700, cone diameter 0.695". Adjust to fit, don't want the cone to bind coming out of lock up. Keep a little gap between comp and slide. Some comps have a long (0.1-0.125") constant diameter between the taper and comp body. Some do this to compensate for short bbl lower lugs. Use a sharpie marker to show the wear marks.

RIPSC, Rimfire Indoor Practical. I'm not the originator, but I like the name. Been involved off n on since late 90s with indoor steel challenge. Nelson Dymond joined us for a match, he started Rimfire SC at Lake Piru. Great intro for new shooters, less stress, lower cost & just as much fun. Good draw for indoor ranges if they have the room. Plates are 1/4 size, convert yds to ft. (10' min distance). After the SC match, we would combine steel with ipsc paper for a super stage. Run the match with USPSA/SCSA rules and guidelines.

40tpi = 1.000"/40= 0.0250"/revolution. Remove 0.015" from slide or comp, finish fit with file. Minimum gap at lock up, there should be 3- 5 thou gap at the top of slide between slide face and backside of comp.. Which means from the center of barrel hole to top of slide should be vertical. This is necessary for the barrel to tilt out of battery without binding. The gap # will vary depending on barrel lock up (0.080-0.125"), link and frame dims. edit: the above dim is the slide travel before the barrel drops out of the upper lugs, sorry 'bout that.

If vertical or vertically angled, clamp a guide plate to the slide and go to town. Horizontal requires a riffling file, or break a bit off the 30lpi file and weld a handle. Vertical or angled is more than enough, skateboard tape works too. By your question, I assume you've never checkered before. Practice on aluminum or any other soft metal. Get the lines scratched in as a guide and cut evenly. Overlap by a few lines and work to full width of desired cut. Don't try for full depth in one shot, work the depth evenly over the entire cut. Keep the file flat to the working surface, push in the direction of cut. If the file chatters, ease off the pressure. Files cut in one direction, dragging it back thru the cut dulls a file. Keep the cut area clean, excessive swarf also causes file wear. Bench and holding device (vice) should be very stable, rocking is not good. This may seem a lot to absorb, give it a try. Learn how to DIY, expand your skill set. Years ago at the Long Beach Police Range, SSA was the resident USPSA Club. Dennis Cruz and I showed new shooters how to do quickie trigger jobs for free. Sharing tribal knowledge is key to our sport.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/files/metal-checkering-files-prod488.aspx

EGW makes an alignment reamer, Brownells has'em. Comps can move around depending on barrel / comp threads. Watch for baffle strkes. Brownells has a rockset thread locker that works.

If you have a mill, make your own

You can do the same thing by grinding off the hammer hook, use a 0.020" shim to gage material removal. Synthetic ruby stone to dress hook face, very small radius on hook edge.

Word of caution - with an empty gun, rack the slide 20 times. If the hammer follows once, revisit the 3 finger spring. Three causes: Middle spring finger, not enough tension, Trigger has too much mass and is bouncing against the sear. Hammer hook / sear interface needs to be looked at. A negligent discharge is your fault.

BM frames are not cut for ambi safety using a tab retainer

Learn to adjust the 3 finger spring

Yes, hold the mag up from the bottom and cycle slide. If it feeds then it's the mag catch. Another symptom is the bullet jams into the frame feed ramp because it is too low and won't transition out of the feed lips. Doesn't happen often, but it does. edit: Measure the mag catch slot on the mag tube

Fit your barrel tab and set lock up before screwing with the lower lugs.

Swiss or chain saw files, lug file and a lug cutter https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/barrel-tools/barrel-fitting-tools/1911-lug-cutter-handle-only-sku080000058-18787-1706.aspx https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/barrel-tools/barrel-lug-tools/1911-barrel-locking-lug-file-prod847.aspx Download these:; https://www.1911addicts.com/threads/kuhnhausen-vol-1-2-manuals-pdf.19098/ Wish Blindhog's site was still up, he had a great pictorial. Moisonvirus is another YT source. http://www.how-i-did-it.org/1911-project/the_kart_of_barrel_fitting.html Go slow, use a marks a lot to see contact points

depends on recoil spring, light spring no. The worry is hammer / sear bounce will eventually wear one or both faces. If I do a trigger job, I'll use a heavier spring and slam the slide 20 times looking for half cock or hammer follow. Any trigger pull under 2lbs gets 40 or 50.

Years ago a friend was shooting a stage with an Adco Shorty, he;d over torqued the 4-40 screws and they let go along with the scope. He stopped looking at a huge ghost ring, everyone in the squad yelled "keep shooting!!" He did with no mikes.

If you decide to jump in with both feet, tell'em you've never shot competition. They will try to hook you up with a squad that will help you. Info / nerve overload is common, shoot within your skills. Your job is to shoot safely, accurately and not admire your hits. Breath, very easy to forget this important function (I'm guilty). Watch, listen, ask, help, the more you learn the better you become. Be an asset to the shooting community, help your local club fix, score or setup / tear down at the match. Don't be a bench warmer. I was "adopted" by Dennis Cruz, can't thank him enough for what he taught / shared. I've done free or have shown how do trigger jobs, ran the club practice days (Shooting Sports Alliance) helped teach beginner / intermediate IPSC classes and attended NROI classes. We all started out just like you're doing now.

Dang, you didn't launch the part. Links to this old tony, oxtools and robrenz. I like TOT's humor, the last two are worthy of master model maker. The last is a word about shop safety, pls do not become a casualty. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5NO8MgTQKHAWXp6z8Xl7yQ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZC9LGZLfyjrKT4OZne-JNw https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCn4U3aEr6L2nLe1m_3as6JQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0o8kdh8HWs

Just because I have machinery, doesn't make me a Machinist. To describe every step would take 3 pages of text, and it would assume the user has a working knowledge of machining. So in simple terms, your jig should measure equally across all 4 corners while secured in your mill vice. A word about back lash, it can cause the mill table to jump when you reverse direction. Practice on some scrap, learn your machine;. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/forums/ http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi http://www.weaponsguild.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=h4c7ugkcsn3ko8rj9bujbj8ec0;wwwRedirect https://www.cncguns.com/

Rotella, cuz my dirt bike uses it too.

My 2 cents, check your brass. Loose primer pockets are known to flame cut.

DRO prevents backlash, use that for your next job interview.

TechPlate in Santa Ana, specify coating thickness.