Dan Burwell

The competitor apps are rolling in, we are going to need some more staff help. Anyone interested please send me an email or PM here. I also recieved confirmation from Dave Dorsio that he will be the Range Master for us as he was last year in Erie. Thanks Dave!

Just spoke with the Chris and there are still openings. Sending 4 apps from my area.

My wife wants to know where the info is on the camp. Mike, My wife is in charge of it you can PM her here screen name Sharon Burwell or email her we also posted it up here in the classes section: Area 8 Ladies Class

Mike, Full day format.

8 stages plus chrono 206+ rounds Trophy match plus cash payouts for class winners. Match Type: Handgun Approval Status: Approved Start Date: 8/05/11 End Date: 8/07/11 Location: Hollidaysburg, PA Club Code: WPA15 Range Master: David Dorsio Match Director: Dan Burwell Primary Contact: Dan Burwell Web site: 2011 WPA section match Application: 2011 WPA application

Read it again, it does not say "must" I know I should eat breakfast everyday but I don't

after looking all over the place for the most agressive tread pattern I could find I bought these:North Face Hedgehog GTX® XCR They worked great all last season and are look like they will make it through this one as well. I was wearing them for both IDPA and USPSA but found a for ranges with some loose gravel the Under Armor molded football cleats work better.

In case this happens to anyone else what I did was: make a backup of the masternames.db file, uninstall everything, delete the USPSA folder, empty the recycle bin, then restart the computer before reinstalling EzWin.

I did do a system restore not long ago when I was having issues with another program. If that is all it takes to screw it up, that sux, I am certain I will screw it up again! I'll have to back up the disc to my NAS so I don't lose it again(if I can find it).

OK just fired up ezwin to do my classifier match tomorrow and same thing happened to me. Is the only fix to uninstall and reinstall ezwin? If so my wife is going to be pissed she has to help me try and find the disc again.

I get wanting to find solutions but there are likely other areas of your shooting the time would be better spent on fixing. FWIW I do it too. I too thought about fixing it, I started watching the top guys draws more closely. I found there are some really ugly draws out there that seem to consistantly win, so I dropped it and got back to the shooting.

You mean something like this guys draw(somewhere in the middle of the video): or maybe this guys: they seem to do pretty well with a few flaws in the draws.

They most certainly do make them for the 5in M&Ps. If you have any problems send me a PM or an email and I can help you.

Looked to me like the shooting speed was good. there was much wasted time on moving. Watch again how long it takes you to get out of each position, it is almost like you look at your hits before you leave (something I do from time to time as well so I know what it looks like) Now watch how long it takes you to get the first shot off at each position. You come in with the gun at waist level and have to raise it each time. The gun should be up the whole time and extending while the second foot is coming down so that when the foot hits the shot can be in final alignment. Lastly when you go....GO!! go with purpose. It is hard at first to separate shooting from moving, but the two need to be completely separate from each other. Stages like that are often designed to see if shooters will slow everything else down along with the shooting, or not slow the shooting down enough. So as it has been said before shoot slow do EVERYTHING else fast.

Steve, the failure I was refering to is the gun failing to strip a round, no damage to anything other than your stage time. The funny thing with this whole thing is, I cannot force my gun to do this, but my wife can pick up my gun and get it to go forward easily. So there is more to it than shear force of the insertion, I beilieve it to have something to do with grip pressure as well.

Since the slide stop spring pulls the slide stop down, I am pretty sure it would make it worse not better. You could try to replace the slide stop or true up the area that contacts the slide so it engages evenly. I would avoid doing anything to the slide, the melonite make it very hard to remove only a little bit of material.

You and others aren't going to like my answer but here it is; Stop doing that! if slamming a mag into the gun causes a failure stop creating the failure. Most of the time people who slam the mag home have to take a longer than necessary pause at the mag well to do the slam, adding time to their reload. so not only does it cause the gun to fail occasionally it always adds time on the reload even when it does work. I had a good friend and practice partner that did the same thing and he continued to not listen until the failures became the norm not the fluke. That forced him to start to smooth things out, and what do you know his reload times started to drop. Be smooth as silk and use the slide stop.

Most shooters have one direction they transition better towards; if the timer says you go better one direction do it both before and after the reload. If you shoot drills and know you are balanced going either direction then if you are comfortable with it you can do it Ben's way. Personally the timer says I am balanced but I am more comfortable shooting right to left, so on a stage like that I would have shot right to left both before and after the reload. What target you start on after a reload makes no time difference on the reload. Now strong hand is different, you always want to transition into the center line of your body. so when shooting right hand only it is right to left and left hand only it is left to right. On the draw- turn towards the gun on a turn and draw, it keep the gun on a straighter path to the target. turning away from it causes a swing in the gun that you then have to try and stop on the target. Lastly, 17 pts down is what killed you on that stage not your reloads, your draw, or which way you transitioned so if you are looking to improve, work on the acuracy. Don't let all this other stuff cloud your mind.

That funny you mention we did that just today, after three misses I decided to go weak hand only and got it on the second shot. Unfortunately I couldn't find the case. we will often do some sort of "trick" shot at the end, shooting is supposed to be fun.

Seth, I have two girls 8 and 6. they both started when the turned 5 with the cricket 22 with a red dot made it fun to hit reactive targets. I would also highly recomend Mas Ayoob's book Gun-proof your children.it has a lot of basic information, but it is always good to hear the basics again. They both know anytime they want to touch a gun, all they have to do is ask and they get to examine it, if they want to shoot it all they have to do is ask and we'll go out and shoot it.

But I can control recoil! I cannot eliminate it, but for me recoil control is the the key to making the fast second shots. Getting away from allowing the gun to recoil and getting into the mindset that I am keeping the gun on target, has made a big improvement in my shooting this past year. The more pressure I put through my left hand (right handed) the quicker the sights return the quicker that second shot comes out. If the front sight doesn't leave the target I don't have to wait for it to come back

Gary, Not sure that is possible. The rules states that they must not be permitted to start a CoF. I could be wrong but I do not see an exemption for open either? So under what rule would you move him to open? Does this rule not apply to open as well? Just trying to learn not bust your balls

well either do the math and figure which is a better deal or if you need the holster and mag pouches anyway. When doing the math you do need to know what all trigger work I did to it, it could be anywhere from $65 to $170. If you PM/email me the owners info I can let you know what I know about the gun.

Dave, Don't do it send me the upper I'll get you back to running 100%.

That tool will not work with M&Ps at all. I have the best luck with recutting the factory extractor and using one of SSS extra power springs if the recut doesn't get it by itself.