DumboRAT

ITB, Just glad to help. As to your questions: - Setting Hop to "neutral" is a very tricky statement. If you mean to achieve the best flight characteristic (long, flat trajectory with sudden end drop-off), then this is done empirically in a "seat of the pants" manner. You simply load up the replica and shoot-adjust-shoot-repeat until you get it to your preference. Because so many things can cause the pressure output (thus velocity, thus spin rate of the BB after it hits the Hop bucking) to vary, usually, serious airsoft wargamers will adjust the Hop and sight-in for range at the field, on the day of the game. With BB-IPSC, you'll find that serious shooters will opt for a non-Hop inner barrel setup to also better achieve consistency. With an adjustable-Hop replica, setting Hop to the lowest setting -- bottoming it out -- will effect a "no Hop" situation. This will of course drastically cut the effective range of your replica, and is why BB-IPSC events/stages are run between 5 to 15 meters distance muzzle-to-target, but on reduced-size targets. Hop setting with most replicas is "nonlinear" -- like your car's gas guage, it might take a while to fall from "F" to that first 1/4 tank mark and then plummet until you get to the last 1/4 tank...with Hop, it's not necessarily that every turn increases or decreases Hop by a set ratio amount. - With the foreign airsoft-specific gasses, you can assume that they will have silicone oil content. - With unlubed "dry" gas, I tend to drop a drop of low viscosity oil or just a quick spray of lube onto the exterior of the magazine's gas fill nozzle/nipple right before I inject gas into the mag. This old paintballing and pneumatic-tools trick will atomize more than sufficient lube into the mag's interior and will then lube the gas-passage route. Why only so little lube needed? Well, most of the commercial airsoft-specific gasses contain very little lube themselves. Just spray a bit onto a piece of paper, no grease stain after the propellant liquid has boiled off, right? A little goes a long way in the gas-passage route. All you're looking to do is to lube the various seals between the bottom fill nipple of the mag to the inside of the main firing piston in the replica's upper. Any extra lube will be "blown past" critical areas such as the BB-feed lips or the inner barrel, both of which will serve no good purpose (more on this in just a sec.). - With your cited failure, yes, it could very well be that you're just knocking out the last BB that's still lodged in the inner barrel. That first BB could have misfed by slipping out of the feed lips ar the end og its chute in the mag (often caused by excess residual lube from "blow-by" gas as cited above). The other most common mistake for beginners is that the magazine is not truly full of gas, but instead, a lack of fill technique has caused excess "gas reflux" at the feed nipple and caused you to think that the mag is full when it is not. Don't worry, filling the mag is a mechanical skill that will just come to you as you practice and build up proper muscle memory. Again, remember how the valves work. Both the bottle nozzle and the mag fill valve "open" when depressed -- during the fill, you must bear down both straight enough and hard enough to completely open BOTH sets of valves. - Yes, you can lube the main upper exhaust valve in the manner you described. That will help address any seal problems integral to the internals of the main magazine outlet valve (ie. valve stem to valve port interface). If you are having trouble with the external valve-to-magazine-body seals, though, this technique will not work. Hope this helps ! Allen aka DumboRAT

ITB: Your owners' manual should cover, with universal pictograms, the areas of your GBB that requires lubrication. But yes, silicone sprays, oils, or gel/grease is typically used for the rails as well as the pneumatic components. I tend to favor keeping things easy, as I'm a simple man -- I use "Associated Shock Oil," which is a brand of Radio-Controlled car (R/C car) shock (just like the shock absorbers in your real car!) oil. It's 100% silicone, readily available at your local hobby shop, and CHEAP (a 4 to 8 oz bottle will literally last you 1+ YEAR). Available in a variety of viscosities/"grades," I use 5 or 10 weight as a general cleaning solution and also to lube the gas feed/delivery system if using "alternate" gasses, also for the colder winter months to prevent "gumming." For summer, I favor using up to 35 weight (ONLY FOR !!) for the rail-to-slide interface and other "hard-contact" points to help keep the lube in-place and from "running" in hot weather. This makes it tremendously easier than also putting greases on the hard-contact points, just keeping around two bottles of oil. Allen aka DumboRAT

Limitless and All -- I did say that/write it on Arnie's, but that's with respect to using the replica with the specific end-goal of airsoft gaming/use. In terms of the replica being used as a real-steel pistol substitute with either FoF training or IPSC/IDPA or safety training in-mind, the minute differences seen/to be expected in terms of durability decrease over the life of the replica can be said to be a factor that's much less worth considering. Why? Well ---> For little kiddies who just want to sit in their bedrooms "dry shooting" their new GBB toy, no, it would not be worth it to gamble the potential for damage with the amount of "enjoyment" they'd get out of the replica..... Better off spending a coupla bucks on a few thousand BBs. But for mature users who are looking for a training alternative, the risk-to-benefit ratio and risk-to-dollar ratio for this analysis goes to a different point on the scale, and it becomes rather more tedious to worry of such issues rather than to just use the replicam and deal with troubles that arise *_eventually_* (and which, it stands to note, will eventually arise either with or without BB use). The sad fact is that airsoft GBBs are self-destructive in their action, be they discharged with or without BBs. How damaging the differences may be between using BBs and not becomes a situation that is highly dependent on the views and values of the tool's user. And the difference between an airsoft hobbyist's expected use of these items versus that of a IPSC/IDPA sportsman/woman's is significant enough to alter the equation. Allen aka DumboRAT PS: shred, a $10 "airsoft" or "softair" BB-net trap from your local WalMart or large sporting goods store will easily solve your casa's BB problems. And like I said above, hey, it's good practice for minimal cost !

Don't worry about airsoft. If you've got one, you might as well just spend the fraction penny to load it up with BBs and get in a bit of hand-eye coordination practice as well. It is *_highly debatable_* as to whether "blank firing" (using only gas to cycle a the replica with no BB discharged) a GBB airsoft pistol will noticeably degrade durability of the replica, and CERTAINLY such "blank firing" will -NOT- degrade the replica's critical selas, etc. any more or faster than if BBs were used. Using an airsoft GBB in this manner as a training aid should not at all affect its durability *_substiantially_*. Limitless, I welcome an open discussion of the full technical relevance of this issue on this thread to calm any fears or address any concerns that you or any other real-steel shooter may have, if you so desire. Any durability concerns for the airsoft replica is not similar to "dropping the slide without a round chambered" as you previously cited. Allen aka DumboRAT

InTheBlack, Unfortunately, I've purged those e-mails.....sorry, no sources easily at-hand. I've been out of the airsoft discussion Forums for the past few months to both cleanse and renew myself as well as to pursue my other major hobbies (flashlights and knives), but when I do return, I will see if I can't dig something up for you. Again, apologies. As for fueling replicas that were originally designed to use the higher-pressure gasses with gasses of lower pressure, this is not recommended. Although damage is extremely unlikely, operational problems may be pretty darned bad. As a certain amount of pressure is required to properly cycle the replica, if you don't achieve that minimum pressure, you're going to obviously have cycling problems regardless of the fact that your GBB may or may not have spit out a BB downrange. It'll do little good for either "Airsoft BB-IPSC" or cross-training during the off-season/down-time for real-steel IPSC/USPSA/etc. competition if your replica won't cycle properly. Additionally, one of the main reasons that certain replicas may require the use of higher-powered gasses (aside from those which have been mechanically modified so that operation with lower-powered gasses is not feasible/optimal) is that they may be models which are less gas-efficient. Typically, this is an issue with the cheaper Taiwanese/Chinese/Korean-made GBB replicas. For whatever reason -- such as looser-tolerance fit at critical sealing areas -- these replicas may simply require more gas pressure to operate, and in these cases, the switch to a lower-powered gas may again provide insufficient operating force to drive these replicas. However, please remember that when speaking of operating pressure, although the demands of most replicas range between 50 to 100 psi (an accurate figure is not possible as, currently, no-one has yet to quantify this value in a "matched-chart" sort of way, i.e. X replica demands XXX psi, Y replica demands YYY psi, etc.) and that this is a "set" value, ambient temperature will affect the observed pressure of the gas you're using. In other words, the converse of what we witnessed with the need to "boost" low-temperature performance with higher-pressure gasses would be true -- at high-temperature situations, it may very well be that the "low-pressure" gas you're using has reached a point on its temperature-pressure curve where its output is now high enough to fully and correctly operate a replica that would normally require high-pressure gasses to properly cycle and discharge. Hope I've not been too confusing ! Allen aka DumboRAT

InTheBlack, Unfortunately, I do not have plans/specs for the adaptor -- I've never tried it that way myself...mainly because of a lack of space in my own small car to tote such bulk fill apparatus around when it's already full of other gear (and also since it serves as my "rolling garage" as I live in an apartment). I'll look up my archived e-mails to see if I have any contacts for you to get in touch with, but I can't promise anything. Be back tomorrow. As for the "rule-of-thumb," it's very hard to get a solid figure down as different replicas utilize gas differently due to their internal design -- everything from the obvious, such as valving and spring rates to those which are rather more subtle or unfamiliar to real-steel shooters such as inner barrel length can drastically alter this data point. However, if an approximation absolutely -HAD- to be made, assuming the use of 0.20 gram BBs, you'll see about a 50 fps (feet-per-second) increase with use of either "Top Gas" or true HCFC22 versus true HFC134a. A second rule-of-thumb to keep in mind is that practically speaking, with even the most gas-efficient high-grade Japanese GBBs, ambient temperatures below 40 deg. F. will require the use of the higher-pressure gasses in order to artificially boost operating pressure to acceptable levels. To wit, HCFC22 shows a temperature-pressure curve with pressures about twice that of HFC134a at any temperature point. Hope this helps ! Allen aka DumboRAT

InTheBlack, Sorry for the link problems -- unfortunatley, Internet URL-links rarely stay "permanent," and at the time that the original post was written, that had been a valid direct-link. I wish that I had enough computer skills and time to maintain a true hobbyist website myself, but unfortunatley, I rely more on the goodwill and ability of my fellow hobbyists to distribute my writings. As for the AirsoftAtlanta gas..... http://www.airsoftatlanta.com/gas.htm Their #1 package should be "traditional" CH2FCF3CH3, with the #2 package being supposedly true HFC134a (1,1,1,2 tetrafluoroethane). However, during my visit to their physical storefront (they're a true Brick&Mortar), neither of these products carried a true "contents" listing showing their chemical/empirical formula. As such, I could not quantitatively verify their contents. The two gasses match, respectively, the two gasses leading the sub-heading for "AIRSOFT Green Gas Canisters" listed here, beginning on the bottom half of this page: http://www.airsoftatlanta.com/ammo.htm The three gasses following the items listed above are even more of a mystery, as their contents are again unlisted -- and furthermore there lacks current consensus from experienced *_and_* "detached" (non-profit-involved) reviews on even the qualitative performance of these gasses. Unlike my other favorite hobby -- high-end knives -- there is an unfortunate lack of serious involvement in airsoft, with only few members of any regional community truly having both the knowledge and experience (not to even mention maturity) to deliver reliable information. Regardless, lacking the ability and knowledge necessary to independently verify the contents of the various "unlabeled" bottles, I agree with your statement in that it is more than likely that the proprietary products can potentially consist of mixtures of various known and cheap commercial propellants. Also, yes, you are correct in assuming that should you be able to rig an adaptor to a simple hose assembly, you can directly siphon fill off a bulk supply tank safely. This actually has been practiced by members of our community who hold HVAC-industry related licenses and are able to purchase bulk propellants (especially specialty gasses of different temperature-pressure curves than HFC134a or HCFC22, thus allowing proper compression/pressure necessary to operate gas-use replicas even in sub-zero ambient conditions). Over-fills should be rare and nearly impossible to accomplish provided that you charge the magazine reservoir properly, cutting off the incoming charge (by simply releasing pressure on the fill valve) once "regurgitation" of the ingoing liquid propellant is seen to spurt back from the open valve. Allen aka DumboRAT

Thanks James ! Allen aka DumboRAT

Eye, Sorry for the late reply -- Are you asking me if I know? If so, unfortunately, I do not know..... But if you're saying that it does work, thanks for the tip ! Allen aka DumboRAT

The XD's used a 30mm tube, correct? If so, any 30mm ring with a Weaver base should be able to allow you to graft the AimPoint to any scope mount which itself features a Weaver top section. For example, with a WA SVI Championship .45, which has an integral sight mount, all you would need is the 30mm diameter, Weaver-based ring to clamp around the scope and allow it to mount to the rail. Just remember, Crunch, that as you choose the actual mount itself and install it, that you be careful about this as our airsoft SV's frames are made of a relatively soft aluminum alloy, and you'll want someone who knows what he is doing to install the mount. Although some of WA's newer race-gun offerings have featured direct-to-frame screws which seem to work well (i.e. do not come loose from vibration, etc., during use) many of the older models, such as the old High-Capacity Series race-guns, show extensive internal buttress and anchor work to help keep these structures immobile. In other words, securing the mount *_may_* require more consideration than just getting your hands on a frame drilling jig and tapping a few holes. You should have a good selection of mounts in HK -- either real-deal or replicas/clones of the real-deal using slightly less exotic materials or with slightly less features, as you yourself have seen is often the case with holsters and other accessory gear. I would think that the rings would be commonplace as well....although 30mm tubes are less often seen on more affordable scopes and sights than 1-inch diameter tubes, it's still popular enough that most of your skirmish-gaming counterparts as well as, more importantly, those stores which cater to the BB-IPSC crowd should carry this accessory, especially now that the various AimPoints are so popular everywhere due to their feature in media programs. =) Best of luck! Allen aka DumboRAT

Much appreciated, Feek! Hope y'all had fun with your first event! =) Allen aka DumboRAT

Thanks for the reply, Jim. Greatly appreciated. And no need to thank me, really -- just trying to bring more legitimacy to airsoft here in the US, and hopefully in the process also help you "real-steel" guys get your hands on replicas that will actually help, instead of trashy toys that are neither durable enough nor realistic enough for your needs. =) Allen aka DumboRAT

Jim, We're trying to get airsoft-based competitive marksmanship contests going here in Ohio, as a part of expanding airsoft's legitimacy overall. I've been doing a bit of research into what kind of audio timers will be tripped by airsoft discharge, and was wondering if you'd be kind enough to leave the name/make and model of your timer here as a reference. Thanks! Allen aka DumboRAT

GE, you're a lifesaver! =) Thanks for that wonderful tip! Now I'm back where I started from, and much happier! Much appreciated! Allen aka DumboRAT

If GE says he can get the extra cell down inside the slide, get it done. Having to lose co-witness of the slide because of its airsoft application is one of the trade-offs that I had to make; thus boosting the sight a bit higher in exchange for a slightly brighter dot with the PowerPak was a further concession that was therefore not as hard to swallow. But had I started with a true "melt-in," I would have done everything to preserve it. One of the reasons the DOCTERs are so liked is because of the ability for you to pick up the slide through the window -- it offers a natural line for your eyes to follow as you get your pistol into the target. With airsoft, it's about getting the sight as low as possible (i.e. the point of GE's unique upside-down C-More mount). Again in my very humble opinion, if I had a way, I'd get the DOCTER as low as possible. =) Allen aka DumboRAT