xpshooter

I use a Dillon size die, i removed a litte off the base of the die to get carbide ring closer to shellplate. No issues even with the reloads fitting in a barsto barrel now.

I just use the dillon sizer, when i was only shooting glocks all was good. Sure the brass had funny shape, i just viewed it as fire formed brass for the bigger glock chamber. I figure it was not good to work the brass any more then needed. However, when i purchased a XDM the brass would not fit, and then i bought a barsto barrel for one glock and the brass wound definatly not go into it. I solved the problem by trimming off the bottom of the dillon size die so the carbide ring is almost exposed allowing the case to get fully sized. Now the brass goes through all the guns just fine. FWIW the fired brass from glock chambers is .432, the XDM is .428, the barsto barrel is .424

After either w231 or 700x discoloring the clear plastic, i now put powder back into original container after each time i am done using press. I kinda like everything all cleaned up ready for next setup. It might be a bit anal to think that dumping the powder into the measure will measure more consistant then powder sitting in the measure for a while as it may have settled a bit.

Thanks for posting the videos Neomet

Hello, As to the electronic trigger idea, Steyr has an electronic trigger for their air pistols. Well actually they did, they have stopped production because the guns were doubling, they are currently working on this issue. The LP50E is a 5 shot semi auto with the electronic trigger. I think they have the mechanical trigger LP50's at Camp Perry and have some sort of competition with them. You can get a 1911 grip for them, along with a "heavy" trigger for bullseye practice. the normal trigger is about 2 oz. I tried to post a link to the trigger unit video and found out that I can not post links yet. So if you search "youtube LP10 E / LP50 E Adjusting the trigger and operating travel - STEYR Sportwaffen" you will see the video. The round silver thing in the trigger group is the solenoid, so it's the part that could push the sear. As soon as they resume production I will get one. Have a Nice Day, xpshooter

Hi, I have reloaded plenty of 40 S&W on my Dillon 550 with dillon dies, I am sure plenty others have too. The stock dillon dies work fine if you shoot the roloads through glocks with the larger chambers. I did not bring the size die down untill it touched the shell plate, because I did not want to work the brass more then necessary. If the reloads will be shot in a glock I feel there is no need to remove the buldge, I consider the buldge like a fireformed wildcat, kind of like a Glock 40 wildcat. The reloads did not look real pretty but they worked good and did not rupture, I have even seen some rediculusly or I should say stupid hot velocities with Longshot & 135gr rainers out of my G24C. It was when I introduced a XdM into the mix that I ran into problems. Not all of the rounds would fully chamber into the XdM. I then trimmed a bit off of the bottom of the dillon die ( I used my lathe ) and turned it into the toolhead so it just touched the shell plate to size more of the case so I could fully chamber the loaded ammo in the XdM. For what it's worth the fired cases from my Glocks (G24C, G22 & G27) measured .431, fired cases from the XdM measured .427 and fired cases from a barsto barrel from my G27 measured .424. The modified dillon die sizes the brass just fine to work in the Barsto barrel. Have a Nice Day, xpshooter

Hi, Yes, the slide cycles. -If I have a another bullet in the mag I will end up with the fired case in the chamber and the slide pushing the unfired round into the back of the fired case. Type 3 malfunction. -If I have an empty mag, the fired case is only extracted about 1/3 the way out of the chamber and the slide locks back due to the empty mag. Thanks for the help, xpshooter

Hi, As the heading states I have a G27 and I have installed a Barsto semi-drop in barrel. The barrel is 40 S&W. I had to file the hood a bit for it to fit. It works great by hand, however when I fire the gun it does not extract the fired case. I have also noticed a mark on the underside of the hood, which I believe is from the extractor. There are also marks on the underside of the barrel (one of which you can see in the pic to the right of the recoil spring.) I believe this is from the locking block. I am wondering if I should just file the spot where the extractor is hitting the underside of the hood? Any other ideas? Thanks for the help xpshooter