Stu Love

PM's sent for spreadsheet info or PowerPoint if available. Will check out the banners also. Older thread here but great info. Many thanks to all!

Thanks guys, I may go ahead with the change to the gold bead sight. I'll call tomorrow and see if they can tell if the rear sight is appropriate as is & maybe check the zero if possible. If something doesn't turn out right, I can always get a taller SDM sight. Must be o.k. to try the .250" factory since it's on some guns.. thanks jkelly.

I have my mod. 625 5" revo (mod. of 1989 version) at S&W for some repairs of internals, and am considering a change from the tall (looks like .300") pinned-in black Patridge front sight to a gold bead. S&W only has the "low-profile" .250" pin-in gold bead and wants to know if I want to go with that one. I haven't had trouble with bullet impacts too high on targets with the stock .300" sight, but I don't want to cause that problem if a switch to the .250" gold bead is likely to do so. There might be a few clicks of downward elevation left available on the rear sight (pretty sure it's the shorter .126" version), but not much gap left between rear sight and the frame to allow adjustment if needed. I might go ahead with the change to the .250" front sight unless any of you guys know if that would cause a "huge" upward change in bullet impact at 25 yds and beyond. I looked through some old threads but couldn't get a good feel for this. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Dang, rwmagnus... that's almost too simple, I'll try that. Sounds a bit easier than the pillow treatment I was gonna resort to. Thanks.

Thanks for the info, guys!

I tried a search on this, but no results. Anybody know where you can get a 6-hole chamber brush for revolvers? These were around about 10 years ago but I haven't seen any lately. Looking for .45 acp variety.

I have an old PACT IV and CED 6000 timer, which don't have any volume control on the buzzers, as far as I know. Anybody know if any of the newer timers have buzzer volume controls? I think it would make dryfire with partimes easier to do indoors without all the noise. I could wear earplugs, but would still be bothering others with the noise.

My 5" 1911 obliterates a buff in about 100 rds of 175 PF .45, with an 18.5 lb recoil spring. I tried shooting it without the buff and had 4 or 5 failures to return to battery. I'm not sure what to do now.. I'd like to get rid of the buff and the potential for jams when the buff gets smashed after 100 rds.

LOL.. Erik, I like your sense of humor.. reminds me of the one where a guy broke down on an old country road one evening. Had to walk miles from his truck, tired and hungry, and finally reached an old farmhouse which he hoped had a telephone he could use to call a buddy. As he approached the porch and knocked on the door, he saw an old beagle nearby casually gnawing on a bone. Soon a little old lady opened the door. He explained his dilemma and asked to borrow her phone. She kindly invited him in and he called a friend to come get him. An hour passed, still his friend had not arrived, and he was getting hungrier. He couldn't bring himself to ask the poor lady for some food since he felt he was imposing on her somewhat already. There was a bowl of peanuts on the coffee table that looked mighty good to him. Finally she asked if he was thirsty, "Oh yes, thanks- water, tea, anything cold." As she went into the kitchen, he grabbed some peanuts and thought how delicious they were, and grabbed several more handfuls. Then she reappeared with the water and he felt embarrassed for getting caught gobbling them. "Oh, no," she said, "You go on right ahead and eat all a' them you can, 'cause I ain't got no teef an' all I can do is suck the chocolate off of 'em."

I have noticed my 1911 5" .45 barrel link pin slips out easily when the barrel is out of the gun for cleaning. Been that way for the last 500 rds or so. I don't see any severe erosion of metal on the link pin or overt sloppiness of the pin inside the link, but I'm wondering if this is something that should not be allowed to continue for much longer. Right now I'm only shooting one local IDPA match a month, so no huge volume of rounds are expected soon. The gun functions fine as is right now. I wonder if the pin is able to migrate side-to-side a little and accelerate wear during firing of the gun? It's an old military national match barrel in a series 70 gun I bought used years ago.. I've put maybe 20,000 rds total through it myself. No telling how many rounds it's seen before that. Are there standard replacement pins that should just press in easily? Any suggestions? Thanks. {edit} merged two threads together at this point

Yep.. the workplace seems to be a haven for those of such ilk.

I believe I saw some Kroil oil at a Home Depot or Lowe's a few months back.. you might try those stores if you haven't already.

I used to get 7-8 hours a night until 1997.. since then I rarely get more than 4 hours a night. Even if I'm able to go to bed a little earlier I start waking up a bunch of times before I want to. Although I can function on 4 hours routinely, I can tell it's not ideal. I hope that changes before too much longer. I have been awake continuously more than 4 days & nights on a few occasions.. once it was while moving out of state and doing all the packing & heavy lifting myself (couches, safes, etc.), putting other heavy crap into storage and then driving 13 hours evening & night through a storm with a big U-Haul (which broke down at 5. a.m. causing a 12 hour delay till repairs were done) and then unloading the truck alone, 2 safes, couch, queen-size bed, etc., hauling it all up 1 flight of stairs & into my new apartment. That U-Haul truck sucked.. none of the interior or dash lights, radio or gauges worked, air conditioning was broken (95 degree heat in St. Louis rush hour standstill). It was a diesel and the damn floorboard was so hot I couldn't keep my feet on it. Whoever had it just before I got it had a huge dog in it that must have peed all over the cloth seats. They must have just hosed the seats with water.. when I jumped in as the U-Haul place was closing up, I was soaked with reeking, diluted (but strong) dog pee and gobs of dog hair on me. But, I was in a hurry. Right before the truck broke down at 5 a.m. just south of St. Louis, some guy in a pickup came up beside me on the highway, leaned over and shouted at me through his passenger window that something was wrong with my car-carrier trailer. I was leary of his intentions, but I got off at the next exit and the guy said it was making a god-awful squealing noise. We went to the trailer and we could feel the sizzling heat coming off one of the axles (brake drums were gnarled up somehow in the wheel assembly).. then something broke in the engine at the gas station. Sorry for the long rant and getting off topic. Looking back it was funny, but it sucked. After about 4 days without sleep I will start to lose some motor skills, and it's just not safe to keep going, especially if driving is involved.

High humidity in either winter or summer is the worst thing for me. It's like having something like suntan oil on under your clothes and then walking into a freezer locker or a hot steam sauna, respectively. Sometimes a 'mild' 35-40 degrees Faren. in the deep South is bone-acheing cold no matter how many layers you have on. I like a very cold, dry winter like those in the Rockies.

I sold a Browning safe once, it was about 1000 lbs empty, I think. It took 6 corn-fed dudes to lug it into my house on a dolly from the porch. I figured it was very unlikely a couple of thieves would be able to cart it off. Well, nobody did, but after having it nearly fall on me a couple of times during several moves, I sold it through the newspaper... some guy with cash in hand showed up with 2 pathetic, kwashiorkor-stricken victims and a dolly. These skeletons slipped a dolly under the safe, wiggled themselves a little and they had the safe onto a lift-gate and in the back of a panel truck in less than 3 minutes. They didn't let out the slightest grunt or sound of any kind. Right then I learned that smaller, quality safes would be best for me, and at least manageable without having to drag my large bowel across the floor when I need to move them. FYI- I learned from from someone who sells safes that you can scoot a very large safe or other heavy object with 2 people and a straw broom... just push on on the side near the top, enough to tip the safe off the floor just enough to get the straws of the broom mostly under the edge. Then let the safe settle onto the broom, have another person push on the opposite side near the top, enough to keep the bottom from dragging on the floor, and you can pull the broom handle and haul a lot of weight across a room pretty easily. It actually works fairly well. Another method is to put short sections of cut broom handles or dowels in succession on the floor and roll the safe wherever it needs to go (this is good for turning tight corners).