blkbrd

What I hate is getting ready to buy a bunch of Berrys then seeing the lead surcharge they add at checkout.

Clean & lube it well, then shoot 2-400 rounds. Clean & repeat. then its match ready. A hint on testing if a load will work in a match. Shoot a couple of tubes of each load from the hip into the berm. If it cycles with that light a hold it will cycle in a match when you throw the gun up with a bad hold. found the same as Homer about wolly world ammo.

I think you have it switched. My MINOR loads are a 147 JHP @ 1.140". My Major loads are a 125 JHP @ 1.160". This keeps them out of Glock mags, and still has enough case holding bullet for reliability and good SD. I use spacers in my mags. If you can find factory published Major loads you are a better researcher than me.

Busy lady.

Could there be a field of flash targets at 350+???? Sure would be nice to know.

Just changed from a Limcat to a CR Speed as I was scaring myself pushing the draw aggressiveness in the Limcat trying to get to my Open M card. I now feel I get a better grip and second shot with a little resistance on the draw. Kind of like how the drop offset guys feel in limited. Slower is faster? Performance over looks? Consistency over sexy?

It doesn't matter as much as you would think. Ballisticly irrelevant. Handle almost the same, although the 20 is slightly more stable on long shots. The 20 moves a bit less also. Close in hosing the time you gain on your second shot is offset by your transitions. I own both a 18" and a 20" JP, both mid-weight and I love both. Lightweight stainless carriers in each. Now set up with and Eotech on the 18, and an Accupoint on the 20. If you shoot any long range, 300 yards +, think about a barrel twist you can shoot Hornady 75's and 77SMK's out of. My 20" 1 in 8 loves both, 1/2MOA. My 18" 1 in 9 is not as happy with either. A 14.5" gun may feel better? What what SCORES better "for you" is what counts. My little M4 is fun to play with, but I have seen the results on timer and target and for me that makes a 20" midweight with a short stock a winning combo. No matter what call up JP and have a long talk with them. Dont fall into the tactical crap trap.

I have seen more malfunctions with Super & Super Comp. than 9mm. It's the explanations that get me. If a 9 malfunctions it was the gun............ When a super malfunctions it was, the phase of the moon, the weather, the lubricant, the sand, the extractor, the ejector, the wife, the powder lot, the grip, the super and super comp mixed brass, the 40 firings on the brass, the 9mm brass you stepped on, the guy that just beat you because he practiced, the extra round wedged in the big stick trying to compete, did I mention the phase of the moon? A super shooter will pick up his own brass, inspect it, clean it, inspect it, roll size it, inspect it, load it, inspect it. Get the picture. Its a machine. If its built it right, lubricated and fed it good ammo it will run.........And run.......And run........Then it will wear out or break. Yes I shoot a 9, and its a sewing machine. Just go me to my M card. Edited to say: If your a top master or GM "you may need" the small advantage in recoil impulse you can get with a Super.

I think I am going to cry

Paul beat both of them.

After watching all the views from the recorded race on the DVR I'm not sure about the tire blowing, the cones & light didn't seem to go under the car but behind it. When they towed the rear chassis away the tires were deflated but intact? The cage split aft of the firewall with the leg portion of the cage and the steering column staying with the forward 1/2 of the car?

Same here with my Bedell. Yes I have had a few case separations and most have been Winchester brass. but the vast majority of the brass I use is Win. once fired as thats the white box stuff the IDPA guys leave laying about. For big matches I have found a supply of once fired one brand police brass fired out of Sigs. I don't think it helps reliability for one brand as my Aftec extractor just don't care, but it does help with Standard Deviation on loads.

First off I get his current limited gun Talked with him yesterday and contrary to popular internet rumors he is OK, just busy.

The thing is, now everyone is going to want to try out somone elses "6 tool" ?? You know to see how it swings and handles.

I thought I was the only one awake. Start at 4.8-4.9gr. and chrono.

Bummed: I had to e-mail Shanon and pull out of the match. Hernia surgery and Monster match wont mix.

Velocity = No change. Think about it, a .007" brass case crimp doesn't hold a bullet worth a darn. Case tension works much better than a crimp for this, and even with good tension and a crimp the primer alone will send the bullet partially down the barrel. Pressure = No change, see velocity Accuracy = More crimp = less accuracy A crimp on a auto loading pistol case is just a flare removal.

I also polish the powder funnel / expander down a couple of thousandths makes the machine work smother. A tight bullet is a happy bullet. The hourglass shape is good, with a tight bullet you get a better powder burn and better consistency from mixed brass.

Spray silicone and a towel works great. Cleans the lube off and leaves the rounds slick with no squibs.

After being corrected "rightly" in another post I started reading and sure enough looks like I'm not buying any more Wolf as I shoot 50 yard steel in many matches. Guess its time to buy a 550 to set up for 223, as brass cased ammo is out of stock everywhere.

You got me wondering so I took a strong magnet to several lots of Wolf I had on hand. I yanked bullets and tried 55 and 62 gr. FMJ from polymer graphite coated cases and found no steel. On some "Military Classic" lacquer coated case 62gr. FMJ the magnet stuck, looks like they are cutting corners any way they can on the lacquer case stuff. Will need to check each batch from now on I guess. Thanks for the heads up. Never had any problems with the Polly graphite cases sticking at all in a match, I can get them to stick in my JP chamber just from being dirty after about 500 rounds but not from heat.

Bad ammo send it to me right away for proper disposal. Really there is no problem, this is just the "classic" wolf ammo packaged in a can, probably even new production. I am jealous you have Cabalas that stocks it. There is nothing really wrong with it for practice and close range matches, just keep your chamber & extractor clean and don't leave a round in a hot chamber.

The only way to find out is to try it in your gun.

Break in = oil and shoot, repeat+++++ Search the springs section. You will find a 12.5-14Lb. "depending on how you like the gun to feel" recoil spring with a shock buff, and a 17 main spring will get you close to the soft & smooth feel most prefer. Try some cheap fast straight Clays with a plated RN or JHP 200-230gr head, depending on the recoil impulse you like. Took alot of work before my Team Match liked LSWC's, and Zero JHP's are super accurate and feed great.