gnhowell1
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Posts posted by gnhowell1
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Correct, I can't get the autoload lifter to work. I feel like something something is different internally around the shell catch design.
I purchased a gen2 trigger housing group, added the autoload lifter and dropped it in my gen1. Can't get anything to work. Won't load at all.
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I purchased a new housing from MGW and it still doesn't work as it should. I wonder if my gen1 also has a different cartridge latch shape.
May try and purchase this as well to swap out...
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I have an early 1301 comp and my trigger group is different and doesn't have a spot for the washer and 2nd plunger on the left side...
Gonna ask J-Kenny what they suggest here. May have to get a 2nd trigger housing.
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Aren't the old DVC Classics a similar design?
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43 minutes ago, vgdvc said:
Thanks for the input. How light of a trigger break can you get with let's say a 17 lb mainspring? Also how would you describe the breakpoint? Crisp?,a little roll, etc. And have you found the units to be consistent compared to each other?
In order to get below about 2.75, you need to lighten the trigger return spring. I put a small screwdriver under the legs of the double torsion spring and bend them a little. 2.25 is pretty doable with a 17lb mainspring. The word of caution here is that it is easy to over bend these legs. If that happens, you have to take it out completely to straighten them back out.
The right amount of crispiness is my assessment.
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I own a few and like them. It's a relatively cost effective way to have the exact same trigger pull in multiple guns.
IMO, the weight can be taken down to competition level. You just have to know what to do to get there.
It's not for everyone but was simple to do and didn't require constant tweaking or disassembly & reassembly to get where I wanted it to be.
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Atlas made some that worked great.
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I was thrilled how mine turned out...yeah, it took a little longer than expected but still way shorter than others and they put a nice little note in the box which will keep me coming back.
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What about temp sensitive powder in your ammo that could run slower/lower PF in cold weather?
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He clearly wipes his lenses after the first stage...
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So, I saw a video a while back for the Nighthawk drop in modular trigger unit. I gotta say, it's a pretty slick concept and it turns out that the guy who came up with the idea is local to me and shoots some of the same matches I do. I bought one prior to this COVID mess, however, I haven't had a chance to mess with it until recently. I decided to stick it in a .45 ACP single stack that a local guy put together from Fusion parts several years ago. It wasn't a great trigger, so I installed the Nighthawk parts, which was way easier than expected. I had to do very minor fitting of the thumb safety, but nothing else. The trigger was crisp and better than what I started with but definitely heavier than I was looking for (3.75#). After about 200 rounds, it seemed to drop by an ounce or two, but was still heavier than I wanted. Likely great for a carry gun but I'm to lighter triggers. Normally, I would start bending on the legs of the sear spring but the Nighthawk supplied leaf spring only has one leg on it, and it only controls the grip safety.Looking at the unit, there was a big gob of red tamper paint covering what looked to be the end of a set screw. That had to be pushing on the back of a spring that put pressure on the sear. Since pretty much everything to do with guns has to be messed with a bit, I got out a can of acetone and a q-tip to see if the paint would come off. The paint came off, and there was a set screw underneath. I put an allen wrench in it, but no love, it wouldn't budge. I assumed that Nighthawk had probably Loc-tited the screw in place, so naturally I baked it for 30 minutes at 300 degrees. After it cooled off, the screw moved. I stuck it back in the gun and checked the pull weight after backing out the set screw a bit. Sure enough, the pull weight had dropped to just about 3#. I backed the screw out a bit more, but the pull weight seemed to bottom out around 2.75-3#. After a bit of fishing around in my parts box, I found a bag with an #18 hammer spring. After I replaced whatever heavy-ass spring that was in the mainspring housing with the 18, the pull weight was somewhere in between 2.5# and 2.75#. It felt good and seemed to work pretty well at that weight.After a range trip since I messed with it, I like what I ended up with even if it did take a bit of messing around. I like the idea of being able to put this in other guns that I have and get a consistent trigger between the guns. It also seems to be pretty much fully adjustable now. I also like that since it is all housed in one unit, the placement of the hammer and sear pin holes in a bad frame probably won't affect it as much as traditional parts. It is definitely more expensive than just buying a set of parts, but it does avoid sending your gun out to a gunsmith. I think it is a pretty good option for someone who doesn't want to take the time to learn how to mess with traditional 1911 parts.
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The one I posted pics of is a 512C. I'll post a pic of the side shortly so you can see the model # on it.
The 512C is the aluminum model, the 512T is the titanium model. Not much difference otherwise.
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7 minutes ago, Bwillis said:
I don’t know if you’ve looked at the weather for Noveske but it’s all rain. You’re lucky to have the 512 . The last time I used my 510 in the rain it starburst on me multiple times. I prefer my 510, but the forecast has me thinking I should use my mro.
It's my understanding your exact scenario formulated the 512 and the 509.
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Coupled with the 509, it may be the perfect short distance carbine optics combo.
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My apologies for the poor quality phone pics.
Trust me when I say it's clearer than the 510 because it's sealed and purged. 3 reticle choices; 65 MOA Circle, 65 MOA Circle + 2 MOA dot, 2 MOA dot.
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2 minutes ago, BiggMike said:
Thanks for the info. These two models are news to me. I'll look them up.
PM me an email address and I'll send you a pic of a prototype that I'll be shooting at the Noveske carbine match next week.
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27 minutes ago, BiggMike said:
I tried the 510C, green, on my GMR-15 and will there was absolutely noting wrong with it; it just was not the one for me. It was light weight, clear and rock steady but it was just something missing. I went back to my Vortex UH-1 which I shot all last year. The one thing I will miss is the ability to switch between he circle and the dot.
If you like that style, wait a few months for the 512c (aluminum) or 512t (titanium). They're sick!
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3 hours ago, tha1000 said:
I guess I’ll have to send it in.
If you haven't taken the battery out, wiped down the inside, then put it back in, try that. Worked for one of mine which was an early version.
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Smalley CS100-M11, I believe.
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7 hours ago, CookieTheSwede said:
How is that working for you? I thought about putting a spacer where you have the wave springs. Maybe I’ll put a wave spring between them.
Wave spring is the way to go. Shortens the stroke while also reducing the recoil impulse then getting the weight back moving forward as quickly as possible.
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Jason Edwards is the only person I know running one on his PCC. Shot with him at 3GN Nationals and shot the gun some following the match. Definitely lightens up the front end.
He seemed to be very pleased with it and had no issues with the 4" plates at 100 yards.
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Having both a tricked out MPX and a JP, I'd have to recommend the JP if you don't always shoot the exact same ammo. The MPX is more finicky feeding different profile bullets of differing lengths, however, it does have a more manageable recoil impulse.
You can really tame the recoil of the JP by going to a cut down 223 recoil spring, all the tungsten weights and stacking 2 wave springs within the SCS.
Both are viable options and have won major matches.
I'm personally of the opinion that the factory guns are a better/more reliable option than building your own. While shooting PCC at numerous major 3 gun matches over the last 2 years, I have seen very few home builds make it thru a major without serious issues. The factory guns with maybe a different trigger or handguard seem to perform far better.
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3 hours ago, 2scoops said:
Where did you buy the CS100 spring ? Do you have a photo of the setup ?
cheers
Free samples from Smalley springs.
People still waiting on Honchos...
in Open Pistols
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I'm running heavier springs in the .40 major so it wouldn't surprise me if the same happens with 9 major.