dan45hk

How long did you wait for a reply? My last email was answered in about 3 weeks.

The indexing ball spring can be cut, washer/bearing used on the shell plate, and indexer block adjusted. There are a bunch of threads here explaining what to do for the fixes.

Going from memory... you want the biggest rod that will fit inside the cases you are reloading. Weigh out the powder charge and pour it in the case, when the rod enters the case it should not set off the beeper. However an undercharge or overcharge should set it off. You can simulate an undercharge with an empty case or no case. It takes a little playing around to get it just right, make sure you don't stress the beeper tab too much or it can break. There is a nut on the rod you need to to tighten so the adjustment doesn't come undone. The actual instructions might be on Dillon's site under the 650 manual.

The Uniqtek creates a void over the charge bar. So the bar always has the same pressure on it to fill the cavity. The little bar in the Dillon measure does nothing like that. The Uniqetek only helps with poorly feeding powders. Unique, and Rifle powders. It will do nothing for you good feeding powders. Is there any data that supports this like the previous poster with before and after measurements?

That's where a chargemaster becomes helpful. I don't know of many that have accurate Varget drops with a Dillon, using a chargemaster with an AT500 die and funnel is the only way I know of to get consistent charges with Varget.

From another thread on here the 1050s are backordered about 10 weeks. This was apparently verified with Dillon.

Yeah that's pretty much what I did, get a full sheet of 4x8 MDF and cut it length wise, use those two pieces on top of each other for the top, then four 4x4s for the legs, and 2x4s for all the bracing. Torx screw heads for each disassembly if needed. Very sturdy, cheap, and can hold a ton of weight.

+1 So what is the intention of that rubber part if the press functions fine without it?

I've also read that if you don't have the trimmer die do some of the sizing the brass is too loose in the die and it will spin when the trimmer tries to cut it down?

I think I found the answer, apparently you can set up the trim/size die on the trimmer to only trim without sizing so you can use the carbide sizer before this step.

I have a MBF on the way for 223. Rick was telling me the cases need a slight flare for the bullet to drop in correctly. He was saying this can be done on the S1050 with the swaging rod although you might have to grind it down a little. So my question is, have you guys successfully used the swager to flare and did you need to grind it down? Does anyone use a Lyman M Die instead of the swager on the S1050 to flare the case necks? Is there any benefit to using one method over the other?

So up to now I have been using my Giraud to trim cases and size separately on my 650. I am waiting on my S1050 that I ordered with 223 carbide dies and the Dillon trimmer. Is there anyway to size using the carbide sizing die and use the trimmer only to trim without sizing? It seems like a waste of the carbide sizing die to be using the regular trimmer/sizing die combo for the Dillon trimmer... Am I looking at this issue correctly or is there something I'm missing?

I have an XL650 and S1050 that I occasionally would like to drop individual charges dispensed from a Chargemaster for some precision 308 rounds. I'm reading I need to get the AT500 powder die and funnel. Do I need the regular or oversized die? Also how does it work, do you drop in the regular 308 powder funnel into the AT500 or is the AT500 standalone? One more question, does the powder drop as soon as you load it into the funnel or does it have to be activated by the case mouth pressing up on the die? I'm sure I'm making this much more complicated than it is

Has anyone gotten the right specs for the bearings? It's a wear part and I'm sure a lot of us would benefit from tighter fitting parts.

I got the parts in, Thanks Skip!

I just used the tool on my 650 after the plastic indexer broke. I have no idea how the primer system could not line up right. I tried it without the tool and I can't get it to not line up right. Maybe I'm missing something, it seats primers perfectly, no issues with the dies being misaligned either. The screws that hold it in place won't let you misalign anything.