WhiteDingo

Something a little different; this one was rebuilt for a local customer and friend of mine. It's his primary ESP gun now.

Great folks to deal with. Like Pat says, very slippery.

I have one 10/22 style marbles sight and one GI 1911 sight with a U notch on different guns.

Wait, people don't dress like this anymore? I missed that memo. I believe I have some old photos of a nice "souped" Beretta from a guy I went to school with, I will have to track them down.

I guess it depends on the optic you're going to be using. I used the US Optics single ring mount with a SN4S for a few years on an AR that got beat pretty good and didn't give a second thought to the scope. No issues with any bending or damage to the scope even strapped to a pack getting banged up on rocks and trees in northern AZ.

Here's an old photo from when I lived in California; I still own all the rifles, but they've morphed fairly significantly since this picture was taken: Front to back: Trued R700 6BRX, #3 Brux barrel at 20" w/ Ops brake, McMillan HTG Trued R700, 308 Win Match, PTG bolt, 25" Hart barrel MTU, McMillan A4 Trued post-64 Winchester 70, 280AI, 25" Krieger M40 contour, McMillan A4 stock Custom single shot (7075 receiver w/ pressed in 4140 barrel tenon/lug seat, uses 700 trigger and modified firing pin assembly, Savage bolt heads) .30-338 Winchester Magnum with 24" Schieder fluted barrel in a McMillan/Robar SR90 stock.

The follower comes up higher with the feed lip adjustment, you can always trim the ledge on the follower slightly. I've run into that a few times tuning Caspian mags

I have a 19 in my open gun, but only because of the SVI QB hammer. It will go 95% of the time with a 17, but I prefer some breathing room.

I settled in to a specific set of pants without really meaning to. Once I caught on to the fact that I picked the same pair of pants for every match, I bought a few more pairs. They're the Mountain Hardwear Piero pants. They're a slight stretch fabric, have well placed belt loops, are lightweight, and gusseted and reinforced in all the right places. Not a ton of pockets, but they are a 5 pocket pant (2 front standard, 2 rear standard, 1 right side zipped small cargo) and I've never had any problems with a lack of space. They're also water resistant, which has been a plus. http://www.mountainhardwear.com/mens-piero-pant-OM4879.html?dwvar_OM4879_variationColor=203

You can also adjust the disconnector slot using a woodruff cutter, if you have a mill available. It's a bit faster than using the scraper, and I will use a cratex wheel when finished and polish the slot and transition. I don't know that it actually does anything productive, but people like shiny.

Drill your initial hole undersized and then drill-ream with a straight flute carbide drill at high RPM; or use a reamer for that matter. You can drill-ream with a standard HSS or Cobalt (depends on the barrel steel; most factory Glock barrels will destroy standard bits) bit and it will work OK but I like the surface finish the high RPM carbide gives.

Were there any other BE members at the Lewistown Pistol Club Patriot Match (Lewistown, PA) this year? This was my first sanctioned match after getting back in to the sport and we all had a heck of a time. I did get to do some filming, but it's not the greatest quality. You'll have to excuse the guy behind the trigger, I'm still getting back in the groove. It'd been about 4 years since I shot action pistol regularly; I've got about 5 months of getting back in the swing. I did take top CDP Marksman, and scored well overall I thought. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLrQ5B37hiI

I don't know about anyone else, but I tend to lock my elbow when shooting single handed; and not when freestyle.

Joe, that's fantastic. I will shoot you a PM to discuss options

I was wondering if we had many other shooters still using Safariland's "Levitation" belt/pouch system? I realize it's been discontinued, which led me to wonder if there were issues with it, or was it just not popular? I have my belt setup from a few years back and wanted to update some pieces, but am having a heck of a time even finding the belt plates any more.

I had already ordered the c -series, I did 2 passes on it with no problems, mags still drop free and BCG has no tolerances issues. This is my first time spraying cerakote and honestly it was EASY, really the 'hard work" is the prep. I plan on using this as my competition rifle for 3 gun so its going to be tossed around. Curious to see how it holds up. I will update this thread occasionally... also that stock was just laying around my new one is suppose to be delivered tomorrow Gonna leave my Nordic 18" 223 Wylde alone kind of diggin the contrast because it matches my WMD NIBX The H series is a little pickier on application, especially if you're using it with a low hardener content (matte finish). At the higher sheen ratios it sprays much more like the C. What HVLP gun did you use? Just curious

Looks good. A small tip for the future: If you want to do a quick re-assembly on the C-Series, it can be quick cured using the same heat/time ratio as the H-Series. I've found the lower/longer heat ratio cures the C-Series a little better. Did you end up with the C or H for your application? As to rhebert's comment regarding the "1 pass coating", I've had no issues with multiple passes in the same coat, or with multiple coats with a flash cure in between (mostly for stencils, but it can be used if you want to add film thickness for whatever reason)

Generally there's a range for fees. Some gunsmiths will charge more than others. The charge for just finshing a pistol barrel chamber probably isn't something most smiths will have on hand (usually there's a lot more steps involved, so they'll have a price for a complete barrel job). To install and headspace a short chambered barrel on a rifle runs about $100 (from what I've seen), so probably around there for finishing the chamber/headspacing for the pistol, I would think. It couldn't hurt to just e-mail a few smiths and get their pricing to get an idea.

It depends on whether or not your bluing setup uses a neutralizer tank. If the bluing salts have been properly neutralized in the tank post-blue, then spray/soaked in a water displacing oil, then there's not really a reason to let it "cure". This method has worked quite well for me. I've reassembled a number of guns less than 1 hour out of the tank with no issues at all (at my instructor's recommendation). Ed, I was wondering if you might be able to expand on your "soft" comment? I'm not sure what you mean; which part of the finish is soft, exactly? I've heard this a number of times before, but everyone who tells me can never properly verbalize what they're referring to. I don't mean to sound confrontational, I'm genuinely curious. Edited: because I can't spell.

Novak makes an adjustable rear sight (Extreme Duty or something like that) that will fit their standard cut with the additional of a small shelf (~.100" IIRC) in front of the dovetail.

I ordered from them earlier today. If anyone's looking at those contract overrun recon rail receivers, Seth said they've got 2 left (I got one) that has the front strap already checkered to 30lpi, for the same price! Can't beat 3 frames for $250 as far as I'm concerned.

The tolerances of your average piece of brass aren't going to be even close to what you want to hold to when you're finish reaming your chamber (sure, you might get lucky, but do you really want to risk excessive headspace?). You really would need to borrow the go/no-go guages with the reamer. Technically speaking with proper headspace, a cartridge should actually sit a small amount below flush with the barrel hood; depending on the length of the hood in regards to the breechface, that is. If the hood is excessively short, then no, it won't sit below flush. But with a hood with the minimal/appropriate gap, then it will most likely sit below flush with the rear of the hood.