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WhiteDingo

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Posts posted by WhiteDingo

  1. I've used a Safariland USPSA kit on standard BladeTech spaced holsters like the GX by just drilling the appropriate holes for the posts and screws to pass through on the hanger's mounting plate. Alternately, GX could make you a holster with the Safariland UBL/QLS blocking and holes.

     

    The Safariland has the ball joint arrangement.

  2. 9 hours ago, engineerjet said:

     

    I tried mounting the fork to the pouch on an angle but the holes will not line up and if i force it, it starts to strip the screw.

    PXL_20210821_144809906.jpg

     

    You're right, I'm sorry. I went back and looked at my angled pouches on the belt. I swapped screws to a smaller head rather than the large pan head that Safariland sends, and elongated the slots slightly to allow for more cant. I had forgotten I did this, sorry to lead you on.

     

    Though AHI does have a point; I wonder if you could line up the lower tension screw point and run a regular post and screw arrangement that way, in conjunction with one of the standard mounting holes?

  3. As I recall from previous posts, on here or the Facebook GP Group I cannot recall, the hammer and sear of the X-Calibur is different from the X-Trim. They yield a lighter, but less crisp single action pull. 

    I do recall from the Eagle Imports (when they were the importer) site that the X-Cal hammer and sear were different part numbers.

    You could always call Global Ordnance and ask if the parts are different

  4. I'm curious if their grip texture is actually effective at all; I feel like there's a ton of alternatives that would be significantly more grip than the small dimples with lots of space between. Definitely curious to see what you think

  5. On 1/5/2020 at 3:45 PM, Cam73 said:

    Update-

    I was able to find a local shop willing to cut the slide to accept the CZC rds plate and window the top of the slide. Price and machine work was good. The result, no so much...

     

    With the plate installed on the windowed slide, magazine brake re-installed, plastic guide rod, Lok thin bogies, 17rd mag with factory plastic +2 base pad and Holosun 407a the gun is .3 oz overweight. The gun is .1 oz under with a flush base pad. I'm using a cheap scale I don't trust without some margin. 

     

    Hindsight, I should have assured the machinist he wouldn't break through to the firing pin channel and requested he mill the plate deep like CZC does.

     

    I think plus 4 base pads are in the 1.0 oz range so I'm on the hunt for another 1.1-2 oz of weight reduction...

     

    Anyone have some diet ideas? I'm leaning towards milling the dust cover area of the slide over putting more windows in it for  cost/complexity sake. 

    Thanks

     

    I bet there's still some weight to be lost in the slide under the red dot plate. 

  6. I did not lose any round count in the mags, but seating the last round became slightly more stiff, because you remove some room from the rounds stacking laterally. I adjusted until the top cartridge in the magazine was directly supported underneath, with multiple cartridges in the magazine.

     

    There are threads I used for reference:

    (Jim Anglin's post in the last thread was a godsend)

     

    Here's a thread on the control/transition rib on Czechmate mags, which have a similar issue:

     

  7. If you insert the just magazine tube, does the catch protrude into the tube when locked? I have not experienced that phenomenon.

     

    I use two round brass rods in the control ribs and squeeze with a bench vise. The body springs back a bit, so you'll likely need to try it a couple times to get the adjustment correct.

  8. 6 hours ago, mpom said:

    much easier to take out trigger bar, remove some material from bottom end of candy cane "slope" so candy cane can be closed further than it currently is. Same result as removing material from sear, namely delaying contact with sear until striker safety block is lifted more, hopefully.

     

    Mark

     

    Except his trigger is already bottomed out on the frame, so closing the loop any further will prevent the gun from going off at all, unless I mis-read.

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