WhiteDingo

I've used a Safariland USPSA kit on standard BladeTech spaced holsters like the GX by just drilling the appropriate holes for the posts and screws to pass through on the hanger's mounting plate. Alternately, GX could make you a holster with the Safariland UBL/QLS blocking and holes. The Safariland has the ball joint arrangement.

You're right, I'm sorry. I went back and looked at my angled pouches on the belt. I swapped screws to a smaller head rather than the large pan head that Safariland sends, and elongated the slots slightly to allow for more cant. I had forgotten I did this, sorry to lead you on. Though AHI does have a point; I wonder if you could line up the lower tension screw point and run a regular post and screw arrangement that way, in conjunction with one of the standard mounting holes?

My receivers are mounted vertically. I'll take one apart today and see if I did anything to them, though I don't remember. I know the more angled pouch is mounted on the upper and left hole, rather than on the left and right holes of the fork.

I have 773 pouches mounted canted on ELS forks on my Limited rig just fine, one at about 45 on the front of the belt and the next one in line about 15 degrees from vertical. What's the trouble with yours? We can work through it.

As I recall from previous posts, on here or the Facebook GP Group I cannot recall, the hammer and sear of the X-Calibur is different from the X-Trim. They yield a lighter, but less crisp single action pull. I do recall from the Eagle Imports (when they were the importer) site that the X-Cal hammer and sear were different part numbers. You could always call Global Ordnance and ask if the parts are different

I have a set. The sound quality is improved. Mine have started giving me an intermittent problem in that they won't turn on until I take the batteries out and reinstall. Doesn't happen all the time, just enough to be annoying.

Pretty sure he was shooting 9mm

What's the bottom of the comp rubbing on, on the side there?

I believe Eagle sold all the parts to Global, but I may be mistaken. The regular K100 backstraps should fit, I believe

The aggressive texture, if you like the feel of machine cut 20LPI. If it's too sharp, you can always hit the points with a little abrasive and round them.

I have seen more removal in the past. Double check your measurements, but it's not out of the realm of possibility

Are you anticipating modification to the holster to clear the optic and mount?

Cut the rear dovetail to a flat pocket and solder/braze in a Bo-Mar style base, or something like the Wilson no dovetail sight https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Lo-Mount-Adjustable-Rear-Sight-Standard-Blade/productinfo/428W/

I'm curious if their grip texture is actually effective at all; I feel like there's a ton of alternatives that would be significantly more grip than the small dimples with lots of space between. Definitely curious to see what you think

So, basically, you had the bushing installed. I've seen responses from at least one AD on here that they wouldn't even question it at a match.

I bet there's still some weight to be lost in the slide under the red dot plate.

Just saw one come in recently at a local store; I was told they waited a while for it to arrive, 8+ months

I have yet to see it listed there. The first batch they got in was only 10 pistols, I think. They posted on social media that they had some in stock at one point, but I don't think they have any standing inventory yet.

I did not lose any round count in the mags, but seating the last round became slightly more stiff, because you remove some room from the rounds stacking laterally. I adjusted until the top cartridge in the magazine was directly supported underneath, with multiple cartridges in the magazine. There are threads I used for reference: (Jim Anglin's post in the last thread was a godsend) Here's a thread on the control/transition rib on Czechmate mags, which have a similar issue:

If you insert the just magazine tube, does the catch protrude into the tube when locked? I have not experienced that phenomenon. I use two round brass rods in the control ribs and squeeze with a bench vise. The body springs back a bit, so you'll likely need to try it a couple times to get the adjustment correct.

I ended up having to compress the control ribs on the mags to feed on the 9mm case; might be worth exploring how the rounds stack at the transition, even with the SC

Lok now makes grips for the standard large frame guns, you just have to select the "long" length

I finally had a chance to measure the TF extension. With the "hump" removed in the back, the interior measures 1.215" front to back, roughly. It can be opened up to about 1.290-1.300" before I'd start to be concerned about wall thickness near the locking screw.

The FP lifter doesn't prevent the hammer from dropping, only the firing pin from moving forward. So if the hammer is not dropping, the lifter is only incidental, not a cause. Do you have an overtravel adjustment on the trigger that is perhaps set too long?

Except his trigger is already bottomed out on the frame, so closing the loop any further will prevent the gun from going off at all, unless I mis-read.