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Wayne

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Everything posted by Wayne

  1. I like my Supernova Tactical for many of the same reasons you want to look at Benelli. I changed the stock to the Mesa Tactical, much shorter, and with the Nordic extension, it is 7+1. With the Mesa stock and 18.5 barrel, it is pretty compact. Actually my M2 Tac is setup identical.
  2. I just found that out myself, as it does not mention that on the web site. But after talking to them, the ones they call Versamax actually fit the newer MXT Nordic. I was able to get 2 +1 caps for the price of one on their out of business sale.
  3. FWIW, Lancer Systems is making CF extension tubes for some shotguns. They usually do not make junk, so I would guess CF tubes are feasible. I am looking at one for my M2 tactical to save some weight over the Nordic I have now.
  4. Thanks Duane. Since I always shot revolvers, I really never paid much attention to what the pistol guys were doing. I like the "Barney Mag" name. After all Barney Fife is are hero, always did his job, or at least gave a try!!
  5. 25, actually, since you start with a round in the chamber. Whether having two less rounds in-gun will be a disadvantage depends on course design. I've shot matches I swear were designed around a 9-shot handgun. Good point, I forgot to ask. I was trying to remember. Can you load the gun, remove the mag, holster the gun, put the extra round back in the mag, and back in the gun for 9, or some other legal way to get nine in the first load ?? Thanks,
  6. Hello, I have not been here for quite awhile, and also have not been able to shoot IDPA for awhile. But would like to get started again. I always shot revolver, and will continue. But I would like to shoot a pistol or two in SSP. I would like to shoot a CCW gun like my S&W 4053, 8 round .40 S&W. Now I understand I will be short on mag capacity per mag., depending on the COF's, but with 3 mags, I'm still at 24 rounds, which should always be enough to finish ? Worst case scenario I have an extra mag change in some cases ? I'm not really concerned about overall times for myself, with an extra mag change. But am I missing something here that will mess up the system if I have only 8 round mags ? Thanks,
  7. Duane, The only thing I noticed was the Comp III's were a little hard to set, I hope they "break in" a little.
  8. Hello, I have never done IPSC, but have shot IDPA. If I were shooting a 4" 686, using speedloaders, what kind of a class would I shoot in, and what other types of revolvers would shoot in it? Thanks,
  9. Everyone, Here is what I finally tried. I got 2 Comp III's. I have just had a few minutes to "play" with them. Regarding the "spring" type reloaders, I have never tried the Jets, but have a lot of experience with SL Variants , and now the Comp III's. What I find is the Comp III's seem much smoother then the SL Variants. What I mean is that when you eject the Comp III's, you eject all six equally off 1 spring, plus the base off the Comp III bottoms out equally against the cylinder on the 3 prongs. All 6 rounds shoot equally into the cylinder. The SL Variants have for me on occasion, especially during speedy reloading such as in IDPA, will have a round hang up and get stuck in the SL Variant. The stuck round will then sometimes actually fall with the speedloader to the ground. This does not happen as long as the SL Variant is perfectly in line with the cylinder. But with 6 individual springs(one for each round), and trying to keep the SL Variant straight on the cylinder(center ejection post on SL Variant only balancing on cylinder center pin) it is easy to have the SL Variant cocked slightly. Then you can have the problem I described above. I have read this same problem from others. But, as long as you keep the SL Variant straight, and apply even pressure when pushing down, it works just as cleanly as the Comp III.
  10. Gary, I still might, but just thought to give the Comp III's a try since I can get them for the L frame I'm going to shoot. I always uses N frames before for IDPA and the like, and used SL Variants. PLUS the SL Variants are much harder to find and more expensive. any info for me on that subject ?
  11. Neal, thanks for the info. I usually use SL Variants and N frames. I'm going to start using Comp III or Jet Loaders with an L frame. I thought having to worry about touching the cylinder on the Jet Loaders rather bothersome.
  12. Is there anybody used both of these, and can tell me any differences in how they work ? Reading the Jet Loader instructions on the Buffer Technolgies website, they claim you must not touch the cylinder while ejecting the rounds. I assume that is because the whole body of the speedloader twists/turns when the spring is unlocked by pushing the Jet Loader in. It sounds like it will not unlock and eject the rounds if it and the cylinder cannot turn freely. Does the Safariland Comp III work the same, meaning you you also allow the cylinder to turn freely when ejecting ?
  13. Thank goodness Bill, all is well in the Universe.
  14. Bill, I just happened to read about the Model 25. NO, No, please don't turn to the dark side, and swith to a clipper. Your the King of Revolvers in my book, you should have been champ shootin that Model 10 !
  15. It's funny as I read through the posts here how this is really a personal preference. Maybe my experience is different because I shoot all revolvers. But all I know for sure, is I have shot various lead bullets, and then the plated Berry's, the Berry's just simply shoot cleaner. Call it dirty, sooty, whatever. My hands, the inside and outside of my revolvers, and the air around me, is all much better with plated bullets. The air most notably shooting indoors in Winter.Personally I always thought most caused by the lube, but what do I know. But this is my experience, your may differ. BUT while we have so many of varied experiences, here is another question. What about barrel wear from lead vs. plated vs. jacketed. Is this a big issue ? I sometimes worried because it is not always easy to find a replacement barrel for some revolvers I used in IDPA. I understand the West Coast bullets have more plating than Berry, are they worse for a barrel ? Any info ?
  16. Snorkid, Ok we are on the same wave length, just cheaper to buy West Coast for you. Here in Ohio, mostly find it cheaper to use Berry.
  17. Duane, I never even got into the issues of just the exposed lead, but since you brought it up, that is another reason. But I do not like cleaning lube out of the dies either.
  18. Duane, I used Laser Cast a few times, and can say they don't really lead much, but they are still lead and lubed, and messy to reload, and while they don't lead much, the lube smokes and leaves residue, that does not happen with plated. Smoke is a real pain shooting Indoors in the Winter in Ohio.
  19. Snorkid, OK, I give, plated to expensive, you don't shoot lead, what is your secret ?
  20. I would say they are more expensive then lead, but for me they are just so much cleaner to load and shoot, it's worth the extra cost.. I guess it really just is a personal thing.
  21. Several of us around here have used a lot of them. I mostly used them making 44 special. As far as a revolver and reloading goes, I love them. Nice clean reloading, and shooting compared to lubed up lead.
  22. Steve, thanks for the info on the 3" 686. I saw one once used for sale, do not know if it was the CS version. I did see a new unfired 3" Model 10 yesterday that was real nice.
  23. Steve, That is a interesting sounding load. Is this from the book, or a little experimenting ? Also since you brought it up, how hard is it to come by a 3" 686, pretty rare aren't they ? Thanks,
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