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About facelessman

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    Sees Target
  • Birthday 06/04/1974

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    North Hero, Vermont
  • Real Name
    Brian Manges

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  1. Like I told you over on LABS, gotta work on your trigger pull. No double taps. Two aimed shots. 15 yds just means you need a little more attention paid to the sights, but no less attention paid to the trigger pull. All kinds of ideas on what's happening between targets 1, 2, 3, and 4... but that doesn't fix the problem. If it's the first two targets you need work on, then work on the first two targets. Make sure your grip is consistent through the shooting process. Crappy grip out of the holster can certainly affect the first target or two, and as the grip settles during the drill your shots improve. Crappy grip after a reload can affect an entire clip worth of shooting. Perhaps there's a slight case of beeper lobotomy during the first few shots, then as you settle, the shots start falling into place. I've spent a lot of time working on grip establishment. On the draw, after a reload, entering positions, etc... Grip being the support system for your trigger pull, which is what it all really comes down to.
  2. Switching hands Handgun. Non-issue. Dominant hand, dominant eye. Line up the sights, start shooting. My old instructors did me a huge disservice by making me think that it mattered anything more than that. Switching hands, eyes, crazy talk.
  3. facelessman

    Light strikes

    Had a buddy that was having light strike malfunctions, but way more often. Long story short, the tip of the striker had been worn down from it's normal triangular shape, to a rounded shape. Might be worth comparing it to another known good striker. FWIW
  4. Sometimes your stage plan is better executed by reloading early. I've shot a few stages where I burned two rounds and reloaded. Just because the dropped mag is empty, doesn't mean there isn't still a round in the gun. ...and it's only risky if you aren't confident enough in making the shots you need to make.
  5. The vast majority of reloads you're going to be taking atleast a step, in which case the slide lock reload isn't that big of a factor. However, if you're left with a standing, slide lock reload, you'll have already cost yourself way more than 1/2 second, and given up any perceived competitive advantage you might have had over other competitors by slam charging the gun. Then you're doubly screwed if/when it malfunctions because of said slam charge. It would make more sense to practice those things that would leave you in that situation in the first place. I'm not saying don't practice that, but where a slide lock reload is really a disadvantage, is usually caused by some other problem, like misses.
  6. Check that area of your slide stop. If it's rounded off any, it could cause the slam charge to happen more frequently. Might be time to change it (it's never a bad time to change it, except when it's too late). Check the feed lips of your mags as well.
  7. So slam charging works 100% of the time, except for the "rare occasion" when it doesn't work... got it. I'd hate for the rare occasion to wreck a major match. Cutting (clearancing) the slide stop does nothing to stop them from breaking. It's so that the longer different profile bullets don't hit the slide stop causing the gun to lock back prematurely, and causing feeding issues. I have 3 Shadows, at one point had 4. They work a true 100% of the time by using the slide release, and I don't think the speed of the slide lock reload is holding me back. ;-)
  8. This. I only separate because loading the crimped brass I need to use a little more caution seating the primers (550). I HAVE had issues with bulged brass, in which case I had somehow flipped the seating die over to the round nose from the flat nose side while loading MG JHPs.
  9. This is why you don't want to rely on the "autoforward / slam charge" or whatever you want to call it. It doesn't happen reliably 100% of the time. I've seen double feeds, stove piped live rounds, or when the slide doesn't drop, the shooter smacks the mag again rather than hit the slide stop. The guns were not designed for this to happen. The forceful slamming of the mag into the gun jars the frame enough for the slide to slip off the stop and go forward. It's only faster until it doesn't work, or causes and malfunction. Realize that it can/does happen, but don't practice it or count on it. Practice using the slide stop/release.
  10. Thanks for everyone who replied. Huge help.
  11. Someone messaged me about this thread. So here's a little update. The Bear Creeks I just couldn't get to work at all. Not with N320 or the Clays I had. 147s, 135s, 125s, Round nose, cone, .356 or .357. .378 - .382 crimp. Not through either of the two SP01 Shadows I had or my G17. I got a sample of BBI 125gr and tried those. They worked great. Back to back, same gun, same mag, 5 BCs, 5 BBIs, world of difference. It's now a year or so later, 5,000rnds of BBI 125s, through all 3 of my SP01 Shadows, they run and shoot awesome. No fouling of the barrels, not sensitive to crimp (.378), powder or charge weight (Clays, WST, N320), or OAL (1.08 - 1.11). Very pleased with the BBIs through my guns and my loads.
  12. Those are the bronze grips from CZC.
  13. facelessman

    Slide stop mod

    That's pretty much what CZC does. As long as there's enough material left to contact the mag follower and lock the slide back, you're good to go.
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