pries81

Thanks for all the work you put into this article! I found it very useful as I'm going from a Glock 24 to an STI 5". I'm going to try a .90 front and leave my rear sight as is (.115). I've done a lot of experimenting with fiber vs black, and found I prefer black, serrated. Any thoughts on ramped vs partridge, though? Thanks again!

Are there any forum members near Round Rock, Texas that might know of Mooney's Firearms? This is my first time purchasing a pistol from an out-of-state dealer, and I'm a little nervous. Everything seems to check out, but I was hoping some fellow members in Texas might have some personal knowledge of this place. Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to see what comes up for sale here at the end of the year.

Buy both! Fantastic idea!

I had a 6" AET in a custom STI. I shot Rainier Ballistics plated FP 1.18 COL, with .421 crimp. They were extremely accurate (well, for my shooting that is) 1.5 inches at 25 off a bag. I wonder if the Rainiers have thinner playing? Did the barrel being 6" have anything to do with it? Good thread!

I'm trying to make the same decision, DVC vs Apeiro. Would someone just tell me what to buy, lol.

Where can I get that price on a set of Apeiros? They're beautiful pieces! How do you find they shoot compared to an Edge? Thanks

So...I put the entire 24 slide on my 34. No change: 5-6 inch groups. The 34 slide on the 24 frame still shoots great groups. So, I have come to the conclusion that it must be the slide barrel fit. Between the Lonewolf barrel and the original barrel there is really no change. Why, however, did my friends stock 24 barrel work well? BTW, I stand by Rainier Ballistics plated bullets. I would put them against any other bullet for the accuracy I need for USPSA/IDPA competitions. I can shoot a 2" group out of my STI with them all day long. If you like I could get a sample sent to you to try out. Send me a PM. And thanks again for the help here.

So here's the update. I got a new Lone Wolf barrel and tried it out-I saw a small improvement. The groups are still about 4.5-5 inches at 25 yards. This was not the solution I was hoping for. Why did the barrel out of my friends stock 24 work, but not this aftermarket one? So it must be something else. I think I'm going to investigate the differences between the barrels. Maybe I should put my barrel in the other gun. Crazy stuff. I think I'll take up gardening...and drinking (more).

Nope, I will cheat!

....And you have first hand experience with this gun. It's not just the shooter/opening poster.

This problem has been a very big issue for me lately. I appreciate the help.

I'm open to examining that further, but it hasn't been my experience so far. I'm sure I've eliminated the ammo as the culprit.

Like I said above, I tried a different stock barrel and it solved the problem. This would tell me that it's that barrel (right?). I called Glock and of course the only thing I could get out of them was, "send the gun in to us..." Anyway, whether it's the lock up, the crown, ammo, the economy, or el Nino, I need the gun to shoot matches. :) I ordered a new barrel and will send the old one off to Glock. If nothing comes from that because I didn't send the whole gun in, well I'll say a few curses on Glock QC and move on. Thanks for the help here guys.

Thanks for all the input guys. I installed a stock barrel from a friend's Glock 24 and instantly shrunk my groups by half. So,it is the barrel. What can I do? Doesn't this seem like a factory waranty issue? What is a crown on the barrel? Thanks

14 lb recoil, 4.5 striker

I would like to try it sometime. I'll be at Renton this weekend. I think I'm gonna try a friends stock24 barrel to see if there is a difference. Any ideas what I should look for in a bad barrel? P.S. I wish I won every match I shot.

I don't remember all the factory ammo. The last one I shot was a Federal 180fmj load. My hand loads are: Rainier 180hp, 4.5 gr titegroup at 1.14 col Rainier 180hp, 4.6 gr titegroup at 1.13 col I also tried some 165s. The above two loads were the most accurate. When I changed the load the group seemed to get larger, never smaller. I'm really puzzled because I have had great success with these loads in: 2 diff. G35s, my STI, my XD, a G20 w/.40 barrel, and my G27. At this point I'm thinking it's the gun. I know differnt guns will "like" different loads but this seems off to me.

I've been a Glock shooter for most of my USPSA/IDPA career. I've argued that the stock barrels are more than accurate enough for...well...anything. Recently, I purchased a G24 NIB for USPSA Limited. From the beginning I seemed to have issues calling shots and hitting steel at distances. I did a glocktriggers.com trigger, magwell,recoil spring and Sevigny sights to spruce things up a bit. After some time getting used to shooting the pistol,I saw no improvement. Offhand groups and groups off the sandbag come in at 5" at 25yards. I'm used to teaching the bottom of a soda can a lesson at 25yards with many of my glocks. I've also had a former Bull's Eye shooter and a sandbagging USPSA Master shoot the same abnormal groups. I have tried a staggering number of different hand-loads and factory ammo, all with no change. What do I look for in a bad stock barrel? If something is wrong with the stock gun, will Glock fix it on warranty? Do I need a drop-in or fitted aftermarket barrel? Thanks in advance :wacko:

That's great!

I would deck out the Vespa. Would the Mexican midget albino mongoloids zombies still catch me?

Yeah, that would be like somebody buying a fast street bike. How practical is that? No reason for all that power. Go for a Vespa, or a Beretta. I might even buy a Beretta if Dave Sevigny were to shoot one though.

I agree that it is a small amount of time. But the amount of time it takes to get an accurate follow-up (controlled pair, split) shot is very important when observed across an entire match. Splits are important and should correspond to the difficulty of the target, therefore they can also be an important training tool. If a shooter isn't using his recoil (or controlling it) properly, the follow up shot will usually not be accurate or timely. This corresponds to transition time too. The split should be about the same for a close target. If the split is that much slower, techniques need to be changed or the shot taken faster for better efficiency. A shooter who does this well will have a good cadence on an array, with good hits.

All things being equal, I don't see why splits wouldn't be important. My splits are consistantly 11 ,12 with my G34 5-7yds.

Wow this is great stuff. I tried the Atkins a few years ago and it did wonders. I just can't seem to get rid of the pizza, and beer, and bread...oh boy all of it. This is inspiring though. Think I'll jump on the wagon. Right now weighing in at 210 at 5'8. Would like to get down to 180. I'll see how it goes.