jimbullet

Hi, I just wanted to check some thoughts on the rules here. We had an instance during a match that the RO declined the shooter from switching to his back up pistol to continue the match with. The situation was that the competitor was using a gun during day 1 and on day 2 swapped over to another gun which is identical except its finish. The main gun was still functional and was not broken in anyway but the competitor just wanted to switched to the back up gun. My thoughts were that there was no material difference between the two pistols except one was an STI Edge and the other was an STI DVC model. Thoughts please? Can a competitor switch guns anytime during the match?

I kinda still have 500 rounds of these and it would be pain to use the bullet puller for all 500. So Im thinking to just shoot it since its been really accurate. In saying that, I dont want to blow up the pistol...

I did, and max says 984 fps using xtp 180gr projectiles but that's for a OAL 1.124. Loading longer would alter psi and there is no info from there.

I have read the pressure should not exceed 33,500 psi - but I am no scientist to ever know if Im exceeding that. My OAL is no longer in the reloading book - as we all 2011 shooters load long anyways. I run 13 lb recoil spring with shok buffs

Im running Win231, 180 grain CMJ Extreme projectiles. OAL 1.160 - I kinda like the recoil impulse, snappy but then I was concerned whether I am just running the gun to death. Recoil spring 13 lbs.

Just wanted to get your opinions. Im running 180gr, 40 S&W averaging at 1,027 fps to 1,030 fps. Is this too hot out of a standard 5 inch STI 2011 pistol or should it be fine? Its accurate in this setting so thinking to keep it at this level but not sure if this is ok.

Yup, that's the path I am headed to, hand filing the thumb safety.

I'm not lucky enough to be in the same continent. I would be more than happy to send it to DonnyGlock in a flash to have it looked at but its impossible when you're just across the globe with limited pistol gunsmiths here having a turnaround time of 8-12months, just to look at it - I'd prefer to "fix" stuff if they are simple enough....Its not a choice but a necessity.

Thanks for that - I actually tried it the same way as you did with the gun pointing horizontally (not vertically down). I just couldn't take a video of it this way as I dont have a phone stand but I did this exactly as what you shown in the video now and its behaving exactly the same. Loose when its out of battery and tight (won't rotate) when its in full battery. At least that rules out that the fit is correct then which is awesome as I am hoping that there is nothing majorly wrong with it.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate all the inputs. I think I will file down the thumb safety as suggested by donnyglock- easiest for me to do and sounds like I won't break the gun by not touching anything around the slide stop and the barrel feet. I'll watch for any marks and scratches. I guess the worst possible outcome is the slide stop breaks and I'll keep a spare with me.

So I did this test - and the slide stop seems to be "loose" when its out of battery. Slightly tight when slide is fully forward.

Would this not cause a bigger issue when I start grinding on the barrel feet? The pistol shoots very accurately so I am hesitant to grind things that might impact on its accuracy?

Hey that is an excellent idea - will do that, thanks

I've always used shok buffs and have not noticed significant short stroking that makes the pistol fail. Have used them for years and my rule of thumb is to replace them yearly - because I shoot a lot during the year. That way, they dont cause issues if they are heavily beaten. Besides that's only a few cents each as an insurance for your frame.

I tried to put the slide stop back when the slide is a fraction forward and it won't. So yes, the feet is not allowing it to do that but when fully assembled, the gun shoots amazing groups. and yes the barrel slide and frame fit is tight. Is it going to be an issue? Or do I leave alone? I dont have gunsmithing skills to grind away the barrel feet which is scary.

Hi there, Any gunsmith experts please? I got a used STI Edge 40 S&W fitted with an aftermarket barrel, KKM Precision. I shot it about 10-12 rounds and the grouping is pretty amazing, doing almost one hole out at 12 meters. The fit is tight, couldn't find any movement with slide and frame fit. Then I notices the thumb safety engages kinda differently with my other STI 2011. Its not like going up fully. But if I take out the slide stop and try to push forward the slide a slight fraction, the safety goes up fully. see video. My question is - the gun appears to really shoot great, so thinking of letting this be - but I am worried if I do that, will it, in the long run cause any issues? Any thoughts would be appreciated? Can I just leave it be since it functions or is there something off? What do I need to do - hoping its an easy fix for me to do a bit of DIY?

Hi, I just came across this thread and I am wanting to achieve a 3 lb pull or very close to it without going lower and preferably with the least mushy feeling. I can see that you have achieved this! So what exactly did you install? GG sear, retained factor sear springs (both or just one) and the GG trigger spring - while using original trigger?

Forgot to ask, any reason you didnt use the reduced sear springs in this instance?

ok at least I know I'm not going crazy...the exponential increase must then be the winchester primers then. Quite amazing how a change in primers could result to excessive pressures. Since standard division PF is 170, I am trying to get close to 175 (settled at 178) which I did before and a change in primers just got me to dangerous levels of PF 185, which is going 1030 fps on a 180 gr projectile.

Thanks - I'm just after a little bit lighter coz 2kg is roughly 4 lbs and I'm hoping to get really near a 1911 trigger break, which I know is not going to be exactly but make it close enough.

Out of curiosity, did you by any chance try one stock and one reduced sear spring (as there are two of them)? Did you get lower than 3.5 lb (say 3lb)? With your current set up, is there any noticeable creep or is it a crisp break?

I suddenly had a couple of thoughts and not sure if these work: 1. I found a Max Mitchell competition spring set for the p320 which has reduced power springs. Anyone use this and how was the trigger pull weight? 2. The other thought is - I believe there are two sear springs. What happens if I remove one of them, that should reduce the tension enough to reduce the trigger pull weight right? Anyone tried this? Terrydoc, appreciate your inputs earlier. I'm using mine for competition and wanting to get really close the 3 pounds if I can without going lower.

thanks for the inputs. "component stacking"? If I am using the same brand of powder, why would new lot of powder be faster? If I am using the same powder brand, then it should generate consistent and the same pressures right?

I have been reading a lot about different competition trigger systems for the P320 x5 legion that reduces the trigger pull but so far I have not seen one that can easily reach the minimum 3 pound pull needed for IPSC production shooting. Has anyone had success on aftermarket parts to get the trigger to 3 pounds but not lower than that? Grayguns seems to be a nice option but the issue is that trigger pull goes down to 2 1/2 pounds which is not production legal. Any help/ input would be appreciated

Does anyone know if using different primer brands would yield different power factor results? I had a load for major PF on 40 which gave me a PF178 a couple of years back. Moved to a different recipe for a while due to supply issues of projectiles. Now I managed to get reloading components identical to the old recipe I had with the exception of changing primer brands. I previously used Fiocchi small primers and switched to Winchester small primers (not the magnum small primers). When I chrono'd my load, this resulted to a PF 185! I made sure my OAL is the same, crimp specs, same, new starline brass....so is it possible for a change in primer brand to have a huge difference in power factor? The powder I have used is still the same brand, Win231 which I have also just recently bought. Would appreciate thoughts please?