jimbullet

What was the best that you got? How did you like the trifocals? Progressives are expensive so keen on what you think as if they dont work, I'd rather stay away.

I'll patiently wait for him to return.... I've been struggling as the optometrist I went to told be I can't have a a distance focus on the non dominant eye and near on the dominant eye. My astigmatism is doubling up the horizontal lines so in essence its messing up the sight alignment. I tried distance focus with astigmatism correction but the difficulty is the sights are extremely fuzzy. I tried reading glasses with astigmatism correction and that made the sights very crisp but really fuzzy on the targets and crappy at trying to get steel plates at distance.

I'm fairly similar to you. So in essence the dominant eye would be focused a bit further out from the front sight when you have your arms extended. Would you know if it were about 1-2 feet further away from your arms extended? (where your lenses are focused) I was initially told by an optometrist that I can't have a distant focus on one eye and near on the other. Maybe your set up is the way to go.

I'm still trying to hang on to standard division. Lasik is not an option unfortunately. With a fuzzy sights, that doesn't hinder you from engaging steel targets?

I'm looking for some thoughts from those that may be wearing prescriptions. Having a blurry vision mostly at distance and astigmatism, making me near sighted, do you guys recommend to wear corrective glasses making the target sharp but doing so, I just find that the sights get blurry but I can still see hazy iron sights or should I just have the glasses focus more on the sights but then it makes the targets blurry. Those that wear prescription, what do you guys do?

The trigger of the Edge is crisp with no creep and breaks at 3 lbs. I guess I could just try to bend the sear spring away from the sear. Always used 17 lb mainspring because when I used 15 lbs, I get light strikes. re: sear spring...will this not break if I try to move it by hand?

Do all 2011 internals interchange with one another? I've got an STI DVC Limited 40 which I think has a great trigger pull and I have an older (like 10 years older)STI edge 40 with a new Schumann barrel in it which is very accurate but the trigger is on the heavier side (compared to the DVC). I know I could just buy ignition parts and get a great trigger job but looking to save some $$ in the meantime. I'm thinking of doing a Frankenstein by putting some of the internals, sear, hammer, disconnector, strut and MSH into the STI edge which will allow me to have a great barrel and great trigger in one gun and dont have to spend any $$. My question is has anyone done this and will they basically work like drop in? The 2011 frames appear to be very identical so I figured they should just be drop in. Thoughts? Also, got an older SVI Infinity and from what I have read, there are some proprietary designs in an infinity. I suppose I can't put an STI DVC ignition parts into an infinity can I?

Atlas has a new thumb rest available. I haven't tried it yet and so I am also watching that space on how good is it or how it compares to the Nitrofin

The installation of the front sight definitely had space between the bottom of sight and top of the slide and because the sight was long, it slightly overhanded on the DVC slide cut/ port.

Thanks for explaining that. I liked the Brazo with its bright fibre optic. My sights are tall at 180 but I was contemplating on getting a shorter Dawson unit you mentioned that yours broke due to having less metal on it.

I use a Guga Ribas so there isn't anything snagging the front sight.

Did they give an explanation as to why it is happening?

Interesting...this got me thinking which could then mean its a fitting issue

Its during shooting for both times. It just flew off and not even hitting any barricade or anything. My recent one was when I was in the middle of the stage (first part it was there and then the next thing, its gone). The stages that I was shooting when it flew off didn't have any ports or whatsoever that I needed to stick the pistol through. Also it was way clear my pants as the start was standing as normal and my pants were fairly tight (not loose) that it couldn't obstruct under a normal standing draw.

Nothing in their warranty suggest that they would replace it, besides if this keeps happening, I wouldn't want to have it on my pistol. I'm just trying to understand if it is a fitting failure or product failure. Dont want to have a third time.

I had two front sights shear off within just one year on the same spot and in both instances, I was not shooting any ports nor have knocked it in any barrier whatsoever. They simply flew away while normal course/ IPSC shooting. Both Brazos front sight appear to have sheared in the same place. Has anyone experienced this or can anyone shed light on why it is happening? Both were Brazos thin front sights and I am beginning to think that the metallurgy might be weak. The round count since I had a gunsmith install the second one (currently on the pistol) is less than 2k rounds major loads. I like the sight picture of the Brazos front sight but because it has happened twice, I am now hesitating and thought to ask around for your experiences or any professional gunsmith here that could share their views would be appreciated.

I've been using nitrofin for over 5 years and it has been great, keeping my support hand placement consistent as long as you dont use it to put a downward pressure which then alters your grip. In saying that, I am in two school of thoughts because with the nitrofin, the palm part of my support hand thumb isn't making a strong grip on the pistol so I am rethinking if I should remove it and that will allow my thumb to be parallel with the barrel and have more palm touching the gun.

Im having the same issues - better with irons but not with optics. Can you elaborate as Im confused - where do you put the black tape - to cover the optic so it covers the dot?

This looks fab - I especially like how the muzzle has been done up. How does it shoot - accuracy wise with that kind of muzzle cut?

Thanks everyone, this gives me some peace of mind that I can still compete with it for hopefully the two upcoming matches and shoot it a little more after that. - Im not sure of its round count but I'd guess I'm near 20k of 180PF rounds through it and yes, I keep the gun lubed with break free on the rails, lugs and slide stop. I thought 2011 STI pistols should have a 100k round mileage before serious breakage could occur. At least thats what someone told me - sounds like thats all wrong info. I never thought that area was a possible stress area until now.

This is my best quality photo which hardly captures the thin crack which I encircled on the picture. Its a hairline crack which does not show on the outside of the slide. Is there anything I need to do to stop it from spreading or I'll just have to see if it does?

Just getting your thoughts. If a 2011 slide, which in this case is an STI 2011 40 s&w slide appears to have a hairline crack just underneath the extractor. Just wanted to confirm my thoughts is that this is a non critical area and therefore I should be able to continue to shoot it. Is that correct? I have also read somewhere that, to reduce the possibility of cracks on the slide, I should file down sharp edges to 90 degrees, Is this correct? Its just that the ledge near the breech face appears to have a sharp angle underneath which I have just noticed and thought to file this down just to minimise the risk.

Hi, New to the X5 legion and I have been searching in this forum for information on the GrayGuns competition kit so yeah I know there has been a long winding topic out there already. I'm on the cusp of getting one but before spending on it, what I want to know is - because the kit comes with multiple sear springs, is there a tried and proven combination of those springs that would achieve a trigger pull no less than 3 lbs to meet IPSC production rules. I know the trigger system is able to achieve +/- 2.5 lbs but can it actually achieve 3lbs without the need to buy other parts? My concern is I buy it and work out the combinations on it and it turns out that it will either be too heavy at 4lbs or too light (less than the IPSC legal limit of 3lbs). Or is it better that I just tinker with polishing the sear and probably reducing the firing pin safety spring tension (as I think this also contributes to the trigger weight). The x5 legion I have is at a 4.5 lbs from factory... huge pre travel but "post-travel) is spot on without any over travel once the trigger breaks.

IPSC Yes he informed the RO about using the back up gun and there was a debate about it but in the end the RO declined.

ah got it. That makes perfect sense now. Its about whether the original gun used is still serviceable / functional. Thanks for that clarification.