jimbullet

agree, and I dont have anything against those that are self taught. You are correct, some do become proficient being self taught but unfortunately the specific person in our area I am referring to is rather far from being an expert from what I have seen with a very few that he has worked on. I would likely go down the road of trying to install the flat trigger, pulling the tabs back, and might do some very minor polishing on the disco, will alter the flat trigger but not to the extent of shaving metal on the DVC itself. If I break the flat trigger, Im relaxed about it as I can drop in the original again and buy another flat trigger and definitely will not alter much the original parts of the DVC itself. I will just have to muster up some courage again to disassemble the pistol and try to install one more time... Thanks for all your help. It has given me a few things to consider and to look into.

This has been invaluable. Got to the range and tested this out and my shots have become tighter especially with my controlled pairs. The pressure of my shooting hand appears to be loosening and has become inconsistent so with this, I got a bit more focused on the grip pressure not to let go immediately and holy moly, its like magic!

its probably easy to find a reputable pistol smith in the US and in Asia, I get that.

there is one and I don't trust him as his a self taught so not really qualified. And another one is a gunsmith for rifles only. The closest is a 6 hour drive and the wait time is long.

If it becomes complicated I will but trying to not have to send to the gunsmith which even a simple work around my part of the world will take at least 6 months lead.

Thanks I’ll give this a try on live fire over the weekend

Thanks for the advice. By smoothening out the disco do you mean sanding it?

Oh that makes sense now. I put the tabs out ever so slightly to reduce pre travel slack take up but if the bow is longer, that would explain it a lot. in your experiences have you managed to get it to work without altering the bow itself? I’ve been disassembling reassembling trying to figure it out and given up put the old trigger back and tested and hammer never followed on its original sti trigger

But that won’t work if your doing ipsc shooting and won’t want that to happen during a stage.

It at this time but my sti dvc is factory and haven’t done anything to it except changing to an atlas trigger.

I’m shooting irons. So if it’s tension of the firing hand which is right hand for me, what is a good tension? Strangely sometimes I call it to be a good shot with sights aligned and logos lift when it breaks but actual shot placement is way off to the left.

Isn’t that adjustment for post travel ? When I back it up there it’s only stopping the trigger from being pressed further after the shot?

So I installed a new atlas trigger on a 2011 DVC. At first it was doing fine on dry fire. Tested and with round and racking and releasing the slide, every often the hammer will now follow. What is wrong? Some tests and inspection, I noticed that the pre-travel is shorter on the atlas compared to the factory trigger but still has some slack or pre-travel before hitting the wall and able to break the shot. Someone told me that it may be trigger bounce which means vibration makes it pull the trigger. My question is, does the pre-travel (not the post travel) be the reason? Is that correct?

So have had some issues of shooting left but not low left. Some drills that I have uncovered this is at about 7 yards doing fast two shots on a target from draw, the first goes alpha and the second is horizontally at Delta. It's not low or high at all. after 3 reps, it is consistently doing that. Another rep from low ready, same thing. Tried at 12 meters and controlled pairs same thing. Im focused that my trigger finger always lands on the same spot. Would appreciate thoughts as its weirdly that my first shot is always centre but the second is always left.

Thanks for all the inputs which is really valuable. I haven't really thought about the barrel hood affecting timing of the gun so by having that slightly longer could affect how it feeds and cycles.

Thanks for all your inputs. I suppose I was hoping that they were swappable which I could return back to each pistol when I wanted to. So far what I have found (without firing it) and I will use Sfinney's terminology, - visual inspection seems to show that undersized barrel has its lower lug feet (below the barrel that has the link)not touching the bed of the frame which I believe is good (when its linked down - out of battery) - visual inspection both barrels rest on the frame vis where it should be. - measures the lugs (that connect to the slide of both the undersize and oversized barrels and they measure identical, to my surprise actually, One thing I noticed is the undersized barrel which I was hoping to drop into the STI DVC, (and is successfully going into battery) has its barrel hood (which I measured from the first lug to the end of the barrel hood measure 1.313 inches whereas the oversized barrel which I was intending to remove from the STI DVC measured only 1.305 inches. While there is a difference, hand cycling it shows that both barrels when installed in the STI DVC - both achieve a full battery lock up. Did the test on pushing the slide to a table and see if the slide stop would - shall we say float freely and when on full battery, does the slide stop have resistance. In both tests they have done the same. Performed test on pressing on the barrel hood down and no movement which means its not riding the link (at least that is what that test is for I think). My question does the barrel hood difference matter being a 0.08 inch longer which I understand will be slamming on the slide breach face much sooner ever so slightly? Im keen to try to shoot the DVC with the swapped out barrel as I might just be lucky that measurements are very similar to each other. I wouldn't shoot the STI edge with the swapped out barrel only because it didn't go into battery (for some reason). Any thoughts on the barrel hood with a slight difference?

thanks for your replies. So if they fit well, why then when I swapped them out the DVC Tin barrel won't go into the Edge? It's not going into full battery leaving about 1/4 inch. Is this usually due to contour on the lower lugs or something else?

Can a barrel that is fitted in a 2011 pistol be swapped and interchanged with another 2011 pistol? I appreciate that the 2011 platform is mostly fitted uniquely on individual frames, barrel and slide fitting but I am curious as I have a 2011 STI edge 40cal and got also an STI DVC 2011 40cal. A thought occurred for me to put the Edge barrel into the DVC firstly wanting to see the finish (chrome/ silver instead of the Tin barrel) and I quite like it. At first I was skeptical but then I can see that it appears to fit well. I haven't test fired but feeding dummy rounds, racking and into battery seems to be good. So I was wondering if this was ok to shoot and if Im causing any problems that I haven't thought of. The interesting thing is that I tried to put the Tin barrel into the Edge and it first seems to have fitted but to my surprise it does not go into full battery and it hangs approx 1/4 inch that it would close the slide and thought this is really strange that the edge barrel fits the DVC and not the other way around. I did notice that the Edge barrel under lug cut (where the barrel link is) is longer horizontal while the DVC appears short and not so horizontal. Some would say bring it in to a gunsmith but unfortunately this is not an easy option where I am at and the wait times to a well known gunsmith here is 8 months. Besides I wasn't planning to buy a new barrel and instead just use what I have. By the way some may ask why do this for pure aesthetics. Well its not as the Edge has been fitted a few years back with a match barrel. Would appreciate thoughts?

the reason you are having shots to the side is because you are not pulling consistently to the rear with the support hand.

How do you think the 244 performs compared to the 231? Was the recoil more snappier? The Lyman book which I referred to previously (can't recall the edition) designates 231 to be highly accurate at its maximum velocity and when I used that, true enough it was hitting really accurately at distance at that. Does the 244 have any load specs that designates it potentially most accurate load/ charge?

I think this technique needs to be a consistent push pull

Definitely either an OAL issue or a bulged case. I usually use a separate case gauge to ensure rounds are in spec and if there is even little resistance, it needs to be remedied.

Looks promising then for my intended 40 load, thanks.

Im looking for some info on those who have used Win244. I understand it's close to a Win231 (which is my go to) and it is supposed to replace the Win231 being cleaner they say. TBH, dont care about it being cleaner but what I want to know if it has a good ED/SD and can reach major PF without excessive pressures and be as accurate as the Win231. Load data is mostly for the short 40 S&W but given we standard/ limited shooters load the 40 longer, I was wondering if that impacts adversely the powder. I would expect velocity will slightly drop and I can increase the powder charge but does that affect accuracy, consistent SD/ED. How is the recoil impulse - sharp or soft (which I know can be relative) Open to all of your experience and inputs on using this powder. Good or bad for 40S&W 180gr FMJ seeking to achieve 980 fps and maybe 1000 fps

Im looking at the Nitro fin 2.0 to be fitted on an STI DVC Limited. It says the nitrofin 2.0 has a much wider rest area for the thumb as they wanted this to address requests made by open shooters. Has anyone used this on a limited gun and since I compete in IPSC standard, will that still fit the IPSC box even with the wider thumb area? I could not find any specs on how much wider it has made the new nitrofin so I can't really tell from photos.