unclebob

How do you go about bending the wire?

If you look at post #76 and #75 I would say he took my idea and produced them with a slight modification.I use a baby wipe box under the strong mount that the primers go into. Only need to empty it once or twice a year.

I use a deep well socket to tighten down the lock rings instead of a wrench. Have not had one come loose since I have been using the socket. Put a piece of vinyl tubing ½” inside diameter about 5/8” inches long over the end of the primer chute or ski ramp. No more primers going everywhere.

Another trick to lower the 650 case feeder and turn it too the left is get the SL900 #17124 shot post. Cut some of the tubing from the top to make it 21 3/8” tall. From my table top too the top of the case feeder with strong mount is 36 ½”. I wanted too turn the case feeder so it was easier too get into the cabinets behind my 650.

I do not have a LM, but I do not see why it would not work. As long as you have the old style powder measure using the powder bar return springs. Or modify the fail safe system were you can use the spings with out the fail safe rod.

I take it you have not bought rice lately.

Putting an ECW die in station 3 on a 650 well depend on what powder measure you have, the old style with the powder return strings, or the fail safe system. If you have the fail safe system you would have to modify it too use the return springs, The ECW die as far as I can tell resizes just as far down as the regular Lee sizer die. It just sizes the case .001 smaller in diameter. I did an experiment I sized 500 cases using the ECW on a Rock Chucker press then loaded them on a 650. Leaving the Dillon sizer die in place. I still had the same amount of rounds that would not gage check as I did with just using a standard Lee sizer die or a Dillon sizer die. IMHO all you are doing in using the ECW is overworking the brass, in turn sooner split cases.

I have a RCBS Rock Chucker press. I use the Hornady Lock N Load bushings on it. Once the dies are set up it is just a matter of turning the die about 1/8 turn pull the die out, put the other die in and turn it 1/8 of a turn and you are ready to go.

Use a small telescoping magnet, the kind auto mechinac use for fishing out bolts and nuts that fell around the engine.

Lowe's do not carry these knobs only Home Depot. They are in the plastic bins by the bolts and nuts.

Look in the 2005 May issue of the Blue Press. It has a very good article of the Arizona Junior Rifle Team on how they load ammo on a 550 and 650. If you use a powder that does not meter well or bridges, get the Dillon AT500 powder Die and funnel instead of using powder measure, works quite well if you like to weigh every charge also. phil conrad if you do not have or can not find that article. If you would like PM your address and I well be very glad and make a photo copy of it and send it to you.

Go to www.glocktalk.com then go to the reloading section do a search for bulged brass. then look for( 1.05 solution to bulged glock brass). lubing the cases helps also.

I can not find the part #13997 you are talking about. The spring you want to cut is #14118 #17 index ball spring on page 53 of the Platform Assembly diagram.

This is what I did for the Spent Primer Catcher modification. The way I made it I took a business card, laid the Primer Cup Bracket on the card and marked the two screw holes on the card. I then used a leather punch to cut out were the screw holes go on the card. Using the two screws that comes with the primer cup bracket, attach the card on the press. You have to cut the card down to make it fit in the space. Remove the Station 1 Locator and take a pencil and go around the inside of the hole were the spent primers fall out of. Remove the card and tape it onto a piece of 3/4" wide aluminum bar stock. It makes it a lot easier to drill the holes befor cutting the bar stock to length. Using a center punch mark the two screw holes, and the center of the primer hole. Drill the 3 holes 11/64 for the screw holes, and 23/64 for the primer hole and waddle it out to .369. or until the insert will fit, In this hole, I used a brass 1/2" O.D. insert for plastic pipe, (plumbing section in the hardware store). To this I attached 11" of 7/16 OD X 5/16 ID Vinyl tubing. Attach this piece of aluminum, insert, and tubing in place of the primer bracket. You have to use longer 8/32 screws. I could only find 1/2" long screws which are too long, so I used two washers for spacing. I think this might be optional, but on the strong Mount, on the right side I attached a 3/4 wire bundle bracket. This is used as a guide for the tubing. I used a 4 inch angle corner bracket cut up to hold the bracket in place. I found this works better than using the 3/4" bar stock. It helps move the bracket more to the right. You also have to bend the bracket up to give it a better angle for the tubing to slide through. Under the Strong Mound I placed a Glad food storage container to catch the spent primers. After about 1500 spent primers, I have not had one not go in the tray. I have not tried it, but I think you could use the 4 inch angle corner bracket also for the mount instead of the 3/4" bar stock. This is what I had on hand when I started. The corner bracket came later. To me this seems to work better than trying to stuff some thing up in the hole were it will stay and with out falling out.

To know how many rounds you have loaded count the number of empty primer trays you have gone through. To know how many primers you have in the primer tube, on the follower rod depending on which one you have the new one or old one take a felt tip pin or use paint and mark the rod a 25, 50, and 75. I use green to mark the large primers and yellow for the small primers. The same color as on the pickup tubes. If you are like me and still use a single stage press for odd jobs. On my Rock Chucker I installed the Hornady Lock-N-Load. Works great, a fast way to change dies. On the 650 primer ski jump on the end install a piece of 5/8 vinyl tubing 7/8 of an inch long the primers will either go under the vinyl or hit the inside end and stay there on more live primers going everywhere. To remove the primers under the vinyl just slide it off and remove the primers and slide it back on.

I have not done it yet on my 650. But on my 550 that I had, on all of the 7 places that the linkage moves, I drilled and taped and installed grease fittings. When I called Dillion and asked them about this, the guy on the other end said they used a grease gun and a needle tip. The best grease I have found is Valvoline Dura Blend wheel grease, I have tried just about all of them, this is the only one I found that was thin enough to work. On the main shaft I use 30 weight motor oil. What Dillon says to use. Lately I have been trying STP, It seams to work, I might try 30 weight oil and STP mix. If you put on the grease fittings you have to make the slots on the side of the main ram higher, for the 2 grease fittings on the Crank to clear.

I put my finished rounds in the 50 round plastic trays from ammo boxes. I visualy check using a lighted magnifying glass. then I have a 31/4 X 61/4 by 1/4 inch thick piece of lexon. I put the lexon on top of the try flimp it over and put it on a table remove the bullet try and wiggle the lexon. If you have any high primers or anything not right you will know it. Then I put the bullet try back on flip it back over then take a magic marker and run a line across each base of the brass. This way at the range or match you know which brass are yours

On the so called live primer ski jump. I top a piece of 1/2 inch ID vinyl tubing and cut a piece 7/8 inches long and slide this over the end of the ski jump. Have not had one come off yet with this idea.

I like it. I use the Dillon pickup tubes though. Take off the white primer pickup part, hold the tube in the hole put it at an angle like the directions tell you and pull the trigger. The tubes that came with it I think are undersized and the primers keep jamming. But have had no problem with the Dillion tubes.