teejay

I have two Fort Knox gun safes with Sargent and Greenleaf 6120 electronic lock. Sometimes they fail to unlock on first attempt. I've considered making two thread topics: one for the safe container boltwork and another for the lockbody. However, they lock and boltwork must be an integrated single system. 1) The lock is pre 2013, thus is not certified for EMP resistance. The specified deadbolt motor retraction force is 50g (about 50 paper clips). If there is any tiny amount of side load on bolt, it will not retract. I removed the 6120 from the door and attached a 100g weight. I let the lock cool down out side at 44F to weaken the battery strength. The lock did lift this weight thus surpassing the mfg's specification. My conclusion lock by it self works fine as long as nothing touches the retracting bolt. The locking bolt has alot of side to side movement with minimal finger pressure. Bolt's width is 0.90" 2) The safe's boltwork has a disk with geared teeth and a cut slot for the boltwork to insert and block disk's rotation. This slot is 1.05" Boltwork has two adjustable hard stops so that locking bolt can be centered into disk slot. Depending which orientation i let the handle rest, sometimes the locking bolt touches the slot and prevents unlocking. This annoys and frightens me. My solution: I wanted some type of detent that would hold the container's boltwork off of the lockbolt, thus ensuring an unlock every time. I considered adding a spring loaded detent, cable with mass, or magnate. I eventually decided to use some 1"diameter 100 pound force magnates to pull the boltwork all the way to hardstop. After multiple iterations, i found a location to install a bracket that has no pinned linkages. The pinned linkages have too much backlash for the magnate solution. Once I settled on my bracket location I reinstalled the lock only to discover the side to side movement of bolt was still too much in the slot. Phase two was to remove the disk, hold in my bench vise and grind the slot to 1.09". Now when boltwork is close enough so that lockbolt engages, the magnates will pull the slot into perfect alignment with zero contact ensuring my safe opens first try. The handle always returns to the same position after I remove my hand. It was quite the project while learning. I expect the second safe to be modified in less than 4 hours. I hope this info inspirers someone to tune up their safe. Life's too short to put up with preventable failures. I would like to upgrade my lockbody. I had seen the electric battery free Kaba Mas Auditcon 52. The "generator aka power star technology" had my interest. These have a wide temperature range, but no EMP certification. The vertical deadbolt with manual retraction spindle would work. I'd like the automatic re-lock feature of a swing bolt, but my safes have left handed boltwork and I can't get an answer if the swing bolt is reversable and allows a relocker plate on front side..... So now I'm thinking, I want to install the SecuRAM Extreme (mechanical and digital). It has a swing bolt (auto relocks) and an adapter for left handed boltwork. Does anyone have experience with this or another model of electronic+mechanical redundant lock? Honestly I'm not woried about EMPs, but want the redundant unlock feature. This lock has a mechanical spindel that will allow much more than 50g of retraction force if needed. (Maybe the hardstops go out of adjustment some day). p.s. Admins, if this topic belongs elsewhere, please move it.

Can that 9mm chell holder plate be ordered? That seams like the perfect fix for nasty ultra small Norma flash holes.

Heck yes, I'm following this as a fun project in my spare time. Keep the posts coming. I've got some AI classwork and lots of Matlab Python experience.

How would the shooting community go about adding action Shooting event to Olympics? I'd love too see the 4K slow mo replays with brass raining down, mag changes, commentators, oh man that would be exciting to watch.

I ordered a Revo July 2021. It was difficult to call in and talk to sales. Machine arrived in October 2021. Has a powder measure wire with one connector and free wires on other end. Press won't run without powder measure. Called, got wrong replacement cable shipped. Called got correct replacement cable. Then tried to make some ammo, but primers wouldn't pass the upside down kickout slots. Called, was promised an overnight replacement. I didn't get the overnight replacement bowl until I spent next 4 business days calling. This tells me my machine was not tested before shipping. I returned a trimmer that I didn't use. Took 2 months to get a refund, again took multiple phone calls. They need a different phone system and email system. Equipment is great.

I think it was gun candy pigment added to Cerakote.

I got the rollsizer Decaper and processed 10k of 9mm brass. It only jammed on Norma brass with extra small flash hole. The primers would decap but the case would be pulled up to the die, then case would be pressed down onto next primed case. The sound was easy to hear a difference then the machine stopped. A vice grip on the stuck case with a hammer cleared the jam. I'm feeding the machine with a Hasgrok feedinator. I mostly wanted to decap my brass for faster and more complete drying after wet tumbling. I now realize the benefit of decapping separately from my progressive loading. Some primers take more force to remove. Also not having debris in cases during loading and the extra small Norma flash holes with respective jams, that smooths out progressive reloading. You do need to be in same room with Decaper. I cleaned my PPC while running Decaper.

I saw a JP5 article in the USPSA magazine September/October page 58. I'm wondering which coating process and which color palette was used? It appears to have some metallic flakes in the royal blue.

Has anyone used the Hasgrok Feedinator 1000 with rollsizer? I can't find any reviews of the Feedinator. I would like to run rollsizer at full speed unattended. I'd like to walk around the house doing other chores and check back in once every 15minutes or so. The Feedinator advertises anti-jam feature that auto reverses case feeder plate. Perhaps I should ask this in a separate post focusing on Feedinator feedback.

CHA-LEE, Can you give some details about the roller bearings for rollsizer? I see your bolts are zink plated, different from original. Did you use a larger bolt and turn it down on a lath? McMaster Carr's roller barrings smallest bore diameter is 0.5inch which is much larger than OEM bolt shafts.

Bought a used MPX, I noticed first 3 to 5 inches of bore has yellow brass colored fouling. Not the normal copper color. No idea what it is. Maybe shooter before me was firing brass bullets, or maybe its brass from a cleaning rod. Doesn't matter, I want to get it out. Tonight, I attempted to clean the bore to barrel metal and ran into several issues. I think there are two options. 1) Ejector restricts in-line axial cleaning. I have to bend cleaning rod or the rod is gouged by ejector. Do most people remove ejector? Ejector is held in with 2 torx screws that aren't in the normal set. What size torx should I order? It's between T10 and T15. How much would you torque these to upon reassembly? Is it a bad idea to remove these every cleaning? 2) I thought about removing the barrel to have easy breach access, but was concerned with red dot zero shift, I'd rather not have to re-sight in or worry about my zero every time i want to clean barrel to bare metal. Has anyone checked for zero shift with a barrel removal and reinstall?

Do surefire 60 round mags fit the Lancer competition magwell?

I hate breaks, I've had ringing ears since age 18. So I have been very careful ever since. I plug with 33dB and wear the Pro ears with another 33 dB of protection. A hat and safety glasses will break the seal of the muffs on your head. I tried a Quicksilver Titanium suppressor for a few matches. Running a suppressor has pros and cons. Pros: 1.) My ears rang less after a match or range session. 2.) Lots of comments and NFA discussions while pasting targets. 3.) RO's will thank you. Cons: 1.) Timers didn't pickup the shot so I dropped the idea. 2.) Burn and melt carpet in dump barrels. (think about doing a reshoot after a 50 round stage) 3.) Increased bolt velocity, thus recoil. That is despite adjusting my gas block. 4.) Multiple "put him in open" comments. 5.) Nasty dirty mags, ammo, and gun. 6.) 13 oz at the end of the muzzle is a very noticeable change in handling. 7.) Reduces my sight picture for my TR24. 8.) Gas blow back in my face. 9.) CTR upper rail holes for ACOG attachment caused my scope to be eroded by blow back gasses. I'd like to try a smaller mini suppressor like a 4" long one, but I'll wait to try someone else's before buying and paying the tax. Generally smaller suppressors have more back pressure. I think breaks should be in the open division only. Do a stage with 20 tube style ports, you'll hate any compensator after that. Best of luck saving your ears in 3gun.

Does it come with the extended zoom lever? Some call it a cat-tail. And if not do the Gen1 scope levers fit?

Thanks ya'll for the laughs and encouragement. I have the HD video and can easily see that the pistol grip can't reach the barrel lip due to a shallow barrel and longer shotgun length. After being DQed I tried the barrel several times with an ECI in gun. It was VERY easy to get the bounce back. I think most competitors used a different discard barrel due to stage strategy. 2 matches ago I learned that my AR with the big stick won't fit into discard barrels so I have been unloading AR's on discard. Handguns are very easy to unload in a hurry, so I'll add that to my list of things I do. Shotguns aren't easy to fully unload. I usually have an extra shell and don't run empty. The other part leading to my rushed discard, was 1 match ago. The match had a shotgun shot to activate a quick mover that had to be engaged with a handgun. The speed transition paid off that time while encouraging more speed in the future. I am now thankful and much the wiser. I should have been stopped as soon as the gun hit the ground. I also broke the 180 picking the gun up. I was going home for sure that day. The RO's due their best. I think I surprised them with speed during the pick up and replace. That left them speechless, lol. I think the name for the barrels should be discard barrel instead of dump barrel. This may encourage a warning about the higher risk portion of a stage. Take care.

I had a decent match going until my disqualification. The stages looked challenging, but I missed out due to my DQ. Watch my short match video and think about discarding shotgun techniques. The DQ happens on the third stage. Are there any grounding in barrel techniques I should follow. The gun was empty with bolt locked back.

Awesome thread! My first IDPA match I shoved a 8 round mag into the officer sized STI Guardian. The Ejector bent up and prevented the slide from riding home until my week hand forced it closed. I bled like crazy from the rear sight contact. The gun finished the match with two more shots. Now I have a STI VIP, it's a double stack 40 S&W with officer length grip. My gamer mags and backup carry mag will be 140mm. My two questions are: Do double stack STI's have over-insertion problems with long mags? Does anyone make mag spacers/selves similar the XD design? I prefer slide lock on SS and limited guns.

Does your thumb get caught in the (now larger)gap between the mag tube and lifter? I see you have a welded up and extended lifter. I'm considering this modification as well. After 20 minutes of reloading practice my thumb is sore from ramming into the mag tube edge. I use the pad of my thumb not the tip.

The black base pad is the Wilson 47DE ground to fit in the box with my gun. The silver base pad is the Dawson no-gap for Wilson ETM. Full ETM mags seat with the same force as an empty mag. It's that good perception wise. I also considered using the ETM mags with plastic glued onto the original base pad. This upgrade took me from the no-gap to the gap Dawson Ice mag well. And I like it! It is expensive to order 6 mags and base pads. This will enhance my speed slightly, but my main goal was to save a botched reload. Bring on the table starts!

I've got a Kimber Team Match II with Wilson 47DE and Chip McCormick Mags. I have a single Wilson ETM. The ETM mag tube is longer, thus seats easier. I'm going to try a dawson precision extended base pad on the ETM. I think this will be the best set up to reduce effort in seating full mags. I've used my 5 wilson 47DE mags for the last year with out many issues. Just looking for more of an edge.

My 2002 Benelli M1 lifter has been modified by Jeff at C-Rums to prevent the Benelli thumb when week hand reloading. After 6 months, I noticed the lifter was dragging in 3 places. 1.) The long end near the old forks was dragging on the left inner wall of the reviver. 2.) The Bolt release lever was rubbing the shell lifter. 3.) The lifter was rubbing the trigger housing on the ejector side. I'm not blaming Jeff at all. I appreciate the work he did on my lifter and trigger! I'm letting everyone know what I found after having reliability issues. By removing metal and polishing these areas, my lifter gets out of the way easier when it's time to reload. I also notice when emptying my practice shells when continuously holding the shell release and cycling the bolt, the shells release far sooner than before.

I have a Benelli Super 90 purchased in 2002. Inside the shell tube (approximately 2 inches from loading port) there is a ridge, .005 to .010", that causes after market followers to hang up in the insertion reloading direction. My factory follower works ok, but as I speed up week hand reload I can feel the catch. It happens on the shell's rim and the follower, maybe even the crimp. The Dave's Metal works and the Teflon Nordic followers both catch noticeably. I've used my bore scope to look at it and it appears two different metals are coming together here. My question is 2 parts. 1.) Does it unscrew? 2.) Does anyone have a suggestion how to radius or smooth out the ridge?

I just got a borescope for Christmas. I've scoped 20 different bores so far, mostly precision long range barrels and precision smallbore (Anschutz). My JP CTR02 18 inch and CTR02 22 inch as well as my DPMS AR10 .260, all 3 copper foul from the gas port to the muzzle. So spend extra time cleaning there. I've got a Les Baer 24inch Ultimate Varmint which is the best barrel I've ever scoped or cleaned. The Les Baer is hand lapped and looks like a mirror. It cleans up with no copper fouling on patches in under 10 minutes after a 500 round hunting trip. I've tried Sweets 7.62, Butch's boreshine, Bore paste, Hoppie's #9. I use tipton nickel plated jags and nylon bore brushes to prevent false indication of copper fouling (not needed since I have the scope). If you want to get all the copper out use Butch's and let the chemical work over a few hours while you do something else. Don't leave Sweet's in for more than 10 minutes. I've seen my friend's corroded 264 win mag barrel. Patches quit showing copper fouling when the scope still reviles copper on the lands and in the groves. My Les Baer will group 5 shots under an inch at 450 yards with 60gr vmax and just over an inch at 500 yards. My JP AR only has a 1-4 so, I don't worry about cleaning it perfectly. All the mentioned cleaners work similarly. The barrel quality and use will determine if you should try to hyper clean it.

I've seen similar problems with under sized brass. The full problem didn't occur until the brass was fired (mild loads). Some times camming over a single stage press won't be enough. I'm not sure I would try to cam over a progressive machine. Get a Dillon or JP case gage to check your sized brass and finial ammo.

I've got the Zeiss Victory 10x45 rangefinder. My friend has the Leica Geovid pre-HD. The Zeiss stomps the Leica into the mud. Check out my excel notes. The victory has amazing reading speed and return rates from small objects. If a deer won't return a reading I can laser the ground or crops and get a return. The hardest part is finding long range in the hills of Ky. I'm still waiting for the weather to cooperate so I can test rain effects. The release button significantly helps with steady aim. I've ranged a water tower at 1800ish. Date Time Target Range [yd] Support Position Notes 7/21/2010 16:30 South Campus Towers 1455 Standing C5 parking struckture to towers, if aiming up higher an addition yard was added, mirrage not always returning a distance 7/21/2010 18:00 Standing Horse Broadside 781 Sitting in truck bed easy to duplicate, aim off of horse and get different reading 8/3/2010 21:10 Terminex Sale's Man 191 kneeling off mail box Used Horus Raptor at 10x, assumed average hight 69in or 1.75m*1000/10mil=175m=191yd, first time to mil a target 8/3/2010 21:15 Flying Air Plane C-130 1008 standing drive way no clouds 8/3/2010 21:15 Flying Air Plane C-130 1642 standing drive way no clouds 9/27/2010 17:00 Flying Helium Ballon 319 standing clear evening