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I don't think One Shot gets as sticky as the lanolin-based lubes when it dries, or at least maybe doesn't get stickier and stickier over time if the rounds end up hanging out for a while... For me with the lanolin/alcohol stuff it was kind of like a science experiment going back to the ones that had sat the longest: I had loaded like 6-7k, not all at once, but over the course of like 2 weeks or less, maybe 1000 one day, 2k a few days later, so on and so forth... but due to the way I had stacked my ammo cans I've inadvertently been shooting them "freshest" to oldest, and as I got into the last 2k I'd made my guns started acting up in strange ways I hadn't experienced normally: running perfect than an unexplained FTE, perfect again for a while, random FTE, etc. But, then I had a day where my MPX pumped through ~200rds like a sewing machine, but after I had cracked a couple 100rd boxes that had been sitting and reloaded my mags at the same session it started faking up every other round for a bit and I just happened to put 2+2 together because I had noticed when loading mags that the rounds were sticky as hell... Anyways, moral of the story is: when your guns are running great, putting a coating of glue in your chambers will make them not run so great lol. So now if I think the rounds might sit, they're getting tumbled.

Resurrecting an older thread here because I've changed my opinion slightly: I used to totally be in the "no need to clean off the lube" camp, but now I've got to amend that opinion a little... Now I'm a believer in tumbling off the lube if the rounds are going to sit awhile: I cranked out a buttload of rounds a couple/few months back, and then somewhat recently started to get some intermittent extraction issues in my Shadow 2 and what was weird was about the same time I was experiencing exact the same thing in my MPX... at first couldn't really track down what was up because everything concerning the guns seemed just fine, so I started looking at the ammo: only after stumbling upon some old reloading thread somewhere mentioning that the dry lanolin-based case lube can get stickier and stickier over time when it sits, I found my problem. I had been getting into some rounds the had been sitting awhile and they did seem stickier than usual. I checked my older ammo boxes, and sure enough, the longer the rounds had been sitting, the stickier they were. I threw them in a vibratory tumbler with corn cob media for 20-30mins to clean them up, and presto: no more problems. So, I guess my amended opinion is this: with pistol rounds, if you're going to shoot 'em up in a week or 2 after you make them, don't worry about cleaning off the lube. But, if you're loading a batch where a bunch might sit for awhile until you'll be shooting them: yeah, tumble off the lube.

Awesome, let us know how it goes/what you think... As far as the ammo shortage: maybe if you can scrape up enough rounds to hit a match, you could try and offer some cash $$$ to one of the guys who's sitting on 80k primers from the last election cycle to make you some rounds, there's always a couple of those dudes out there, maybe someone will hook you up hahaha!

Well done You must've missed all the threads discussing MPX's because everyone knows they don't run... What camera are you using (I'm looking into one and don't know really where to start)..?

Don't forget about us guys that aren't rushing to go deaf lol!

I'm super curious about the new 6mm ARC... Seems to me that it's sorta like the "new hotness" in the same way the 6 Dasher has/had been recently, except, with Military adoption and the big push by Hornady, a bunch of manufacturers are already jumping in both feet which hadn't really happened with the Dasher........ I put together a 6mm Creedmoor that I've been playing with and had pretty much decided I'd move to the 6 Dasher when my barrel is cooked and it became time for a new barrel, but now it's starting to look like I might need to take a hard look at the 6 ARC if it can do much of the same but is more widely adopted... IDK. Anyone shot one and have an opinion versus the Dasher..?

The SRO is pretty sweet because the body disappears and the 5 MOA dot is nice, but you're not missing much running the Holosun... Honestly, the Holosun is probably clearer glass, the SRO still has tiny bit of magnification to it and is a little distorted around the edges. It's the SRO's small footprint/relativly big window that is nice on the PCC.

Might sound weird, but what about switching eyes? Your shooting both eyes open anyways and your other eye is already offset lol. I couldn’t find an offset sight/mount I liked so one day I just ran some drills while consciously telling myself to use my other non-dominant (left in my case) eye. It felt super weird and slow at first and I didn’t think it was going to work... but on a whim I stuck a paster on my glasses right in front of my dominant (right) eye and ran another 100rds of the hard lean drill... I was getting good hits so I ran it some more... after a bit I took off the paster and now it works for me, weird but not that weird lol. I still have to coach/remind myself to switch eyes before stages with tough leans, but when I do it, it works Now IDK about headbox shots at 25yrds, but closer in, especially on hoser targets, it works great.

Practice, practice, practice lol! Seriously though, it can be a pain if your hand slides up the mag... I just grab the mag like I’m squeezing the life out of it while I jam it in. I like Nolan’s idea about using some tape, I used to work in the music biz and am pretty sure I’ve got a couple rolls of Gaffer’s tape kicking around somewhere so I might try that... Looks like DAA have a new widget that may help?: https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/pcc-mag-grip

Both are nice guns, I'd probably be happy with either but I've been shooting CZ's for longer so I know them better. Both OR versions are tough to find right now. The Tanfo's aren't as hard to shop for as far as upgrades as they once were... but that said, the DA pull on the Tanfo's is kind of weird. Don't know if it matters to you, but talking the OR versions specifically, you can shoot the S2OR in Production with it's fixed rear-irons plate in place if you want, not sure if you can do that with the Tanfo...

I'll second/third the comments that most reliability issues with the MPX in its current form are owner induced. There is truth in that the earlier ones (pre-"Gen 2" PCC RMPX-16B-9) were indeed kind of a s**t-show... as is common Sig practice these days, whether their guns or dots/optics, we as the consumers are the beta-testers it seems... The newest one is sussed out though (we all can probably thank all the guys that had to ship their Gen 1 MPX's back and forth to Sig too many times). I've got over 10k through mine without an issue of any kind and I don't baby it, I've only tore it down twice to completely clean it, wiped down and relubed the bolt a couple times in-between those cleanings, but that's it, and I haven't even needed so much as a new extractor spring yet. I DO however run mine wet as hell, I treat it kind of like a 1911, if there's not a little lube coming out then it's too dry lol. I never oil/lube the gas end; it's meant to be run dry. Yes, it's more of a b**tch to clean than a blowback gun, but it's not hard. Really with any good PCC that sees a lot of rounds, cleaning lead out of the comp takes longer than the whole rest of the gun. I've watched more than a few blowback guns (including a couple JP's) choke a bunch of times at matches during the time that mine has been solid; and while I know some of that is luck, it's also that there were changes made from the older MPX's so now they run and aren't the gamble they once were a couple years ago. That said, guys fak them up all the time lol. They're already softer shooting bone stock when using factory FMJ at 145-150pf than blowback guns that guys are pulling out all the tricks on (short-stroking, playing with different buffer setups, pulling/adding bolt weights, etc) and are loading to 125pf. Mine shoots like a Nerf gun using my pistol load that is around 130pf out of a Shadow 2 (so somewhere above 140pf out of the 16" barreled MPX), and the MPX being a gas-piston, I know I could get it to start faking up if I tried to load down to 125-130pf out of it. But that's what guys do, that's the game, so they have problems. Then they try to fix it with playing with springs and before they know it they're in uncharted territory beyond the perimeters where the gun was designed to operate; some get it to work, some go back to a "normal" power factor load, some give up because they can't help themselves from playing with light loads that are too light for it and go to a blowback gun lol. There's a tipping point with the MPX where when a load doesn't make enough gas the gun just isn't going to work reliably, there isn't any magic spring combo to counteract that. Thing is, I can totally relate to guys chasing that magic 130ish pf load out of an MPX because when they're ridiculously fun at 140+pf, I mean who doesn't want more "more" lol? IMO it's counter-intuitive for guys in this sport to stop themselves from looking for "more/better", especially if they have experience loading for pistols or other blowback PCC's, that's just how it is; but, with the MPX it's almost like they should come with etching on the side of the receiver that says "once it's softer than anything else, just leave it alone" lol. As far as already having some Glock mags, doesn't everybody already have a bunch of Glock mags kicking around hahahaha? The MPX mags are pricey yes, but they're also made by Lancer and are great, and IMO are just plain better than Glock mags for a PCC/sub-gun, they were designed purposely for it. When you take a an OEM Glock 33rd mag and add a +10 extension, you end up with a $80 41rd pistol mag that is sketchy-tight to load and usually runs perfectly if you've filed/sanded in the right spots and have a fresh spring, an MPX mag and an extension (41rds too) will run 100%, loads easily and is really only $20 more.

I haven't shot my MPX in USPSA for a while now (concentrating more on pistol these days), but PCC brought me back to competition shooting after putting it down for a few years due to how fun it is! And IMHO, the MPX just takes what's already fun about PCC and makes it a total blast! I put together a couple different AR9 builds before I bought the MPX, one going very budget-minded with Foxtrot Mike stuff (still the best stuff out there for the money IMO) and then one a bit more high-dollar running mostly QC10 stuff with JP guts, and beyond that I've put a bunch of rounds through buddies' fully Gucci'd-out GMR-15's and nearly bought one... But (and I know I might catch heat for saying this because I know guys are fond of them), IMHO the JP's are nice, but they're just another AR9, albeit a well put together one with "the name", there is nothing really special about them as compared to any other good blowback PCC that takes Glock mags. After shooting pretty much all of the PCC's out there, there's the MPX, and then there's everything else, full stop. With how things are these days, and what MPX's are currently going for, I know I could sell my MPX and get every cent back I put into it and then some (and maybe/probably should due to accidently getting into PRS rifles lol), but I still pull it out for UML matches, steel sometimes, and just for laughs, and it's so much damn fun to shred with it that I just can't do it.

I belong to an MPX group on FB and it’s the timmys driving up the prices on them... apparently they’re the hotness on Insta, John Wick’s gun bruh lol

Not to steer the thread off course, but I put the new Hiperfire disconnectors in my MPX’s with 24/3G’s and they work great. My main gun had ~10k rounds on it and the original disconnector came out fairly squished, maybe 2/3rds normal/original size and starting to look a bit wonky... My backup has only maybe ~500 rounds on it so its disco looked fine. Neither gun has ever had a stoppage or malfunction (hope I’m not jinxing myself lol), but it was pretty easy to see my main one’s disco was on the cusp of misbehaving. The new disconnector and spring fixed up the trigger-reset in my main gun a lot, feels much better, I hadn’t realized the reset had been getting weaker, it’s nice and quick/positive again. Put about ~1000rds through the main gun with the new disco and fresh spring and pulled it apart just to check it out and the spring looks good as new, no change, so far looks like Hiperfire sorted it out. Incidentally, I barely shoot the MPX’s enough to justify having 2 complete setups, if anyone is looking for an MPX, getting my feet wet in PRS is getting expensive quick so I might throw one up in the classifieds soon IDK... They’re so faking fun to shoot though, I don’t really have anything that provides as many laughs!

R3XL is a no-go on a Shadow 2 OR, the footprint is too big (too long at the front of the sight). I don’t have a P10 so I’m not sure, but P10’s and S2OR’s use the same plates, so unless someone can chime in saying otherwise, pretty sure an R3XL would be a no-go on a P10 too.

Being that you’re just looking for a “truck gun” and not a competition PCC like most of us run around here, given the choice between the 2 you mentioned, I’d go with the Scorpion for sure. The Scorpions have been around for a while and are a proven platform that’s known to be good. Also, for really the opposite reasons, I’d stay away from the Tavor, they’re an unknown quantity and probably not worth the headache of living with such a “unicorn” type platform, especially for what they cost. As someone who bought a Tavor in 5.56 years ago right when they hit the US market; they’re cooler in pics and vids when they belong to someone else lol, they look cool but actually kind of suck. I’d recommend just putting together an AR9 pistol that runs off Glock mags, they’re not the unreliable things they used to be, now they run quite well and is what most guys run in competition. If you’re even looking at a Tavor, cost probably isn’t an issue, so I’d recommend an MPX if you want something more Gucci.

I totally agree, for a shooter, the good ones IMHO are are/were some of the best 1911's made, and not just "for the money". I was out shooting one of my Trojans yesterday with a buddy who was having his first time out with a new-to-him older low round count DW PM9... While the PM9's are great guns too, it just didn't feel "right" to me... then it occurred to me that no other 1911's really feel as "right" as my STI's and I think it's something to do with how the older STI 1911's have their trigger-guards undercut. Lots of 1911's advertise as featuring an "undercut trigger-guard" but IMO the STI 1911 undercut is really the only one that was actually/truly undercut where the frame and trigger-guard is relieved/scooped out. Been shooting them long enough now that other 1911's without that feel strange...

Lol, Trijicon is very proud of their stuff, and apparently lots of guys are too... I mean they’ve been selling “1X” MRO’s for years that had magnification on day one and still do now, they just never really fixed it. They’re the H&K of the optic game maybe? I stripped a screw once on a fairly cheap Vortex dot a couple years ago and sent an email asking for a new screw: a week later a package showed up with like 3 complete sets of screws, 2 lens cloths, stickers, and a new hat for my stepdad lol

Lol I don’t think any of the 3 SRO’s I bought came with a cleaning cloth... you’d figure at ~$500 they wouldn’t forget to throw them in the box

+1. Honestly, while maybe not as aesthetically pleasing, the “big Trojan” ones were being made when STI’s catalog and output was smaller and while they offered fewer different models in their line... so maybe it could be argued that the “big logo” ones got more TLC than the later “small logo” ones? IDK, but I’ve had 2 “big logo” ones that were awesome and I never should have sold... and I replaced them as soon as I could, and now own 2 “small logo” ones that are awesome too that I’ll never sell. I’ve had and handled more expensive 1911’s, but none really better.

I’m using 3.4gr Sport Pistol + Blue .356 135gr TC at 1.115 OAL, just enough crimp so rounds drop into the Hundo = 130-133pf out of a Shadow 2, 50cent-piece sized groups at 25yrds if I do my part.

If you're going to go blowback/AR9, just build your own... Max L is probably the best in the game and he's using a $40 upper mated to a $150 lower lol. If you don't want to tune a blowback, I have an MPX PCC "3rd Gen" which has run like a top for a year without ever malfunctioning and it shoots as soft as a Nerf gun. I've shot 3 different JP's and 1 MBX, and honestly IMHO for what they cost I wouldn't do it, at the end of the day they're just blowback AR9's, they're just put together correctly. There's nothing really special about them you couldn't add to your own build for a lot less.

+1. If you just plan on shooting local matches, your gun going down on you and you missing a local match won't be a huge deal other than being a bummer... but if you were traveling to a match and incurred all the costs that go with that, then if your gun were to go down, that could be a HUGE bum out. Thing is too, in Carry Optics, might not be the gun that fails, but your dot might (that's arguably more likely)... If you swap out springs and a slide-stop once a year, and aren't unlucky, you may never need the backup... but like is said: better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.. Plus, the S2OR's are pretty hard to get a hold of right now, maybe you should grab another one while you can?

Well, IMO the big one that jumps out is the Redding Competition Seating Die... there's a reason why it seems like everyone uses that one and why they are often sold out and sometimes tough to get a hold of at times... Unlike most everyone else's seating die, the Redding die goes completely down to the shell plate and grabs the whole case while it aligns and seats the bullet, so the bullets come out seated straight every time, the micrometer to control seating depth is just an added bonus and makes it easy to seat to the exact OAL you're after without having to guess. Plus, the Redding die is a seat-only, most of the others' add a roll crimp if you adjust them down too far, IMO it's better to not even have to worry about that happening. The Redding die isn't cheap, usually $80-100, but worth every penny because it really is the best one out there IMO. As far as the sizing/decapping die, there's more than a few out there that are great, with lots of them sizing further down the cases than the Dillon sizing die. I went with a Lee standard sizing/decap die because it seems to be what most people say goes the furthest down the cases, and replacement decapping pins, if/when ever needed, are cheap and easy to change out (I was also able to get some aftermarket super-hardend pins from Squirreldaddy that are supposed particularly hard to bend/break). The Redding Carbide sizing die is supposed to be really good too, but it's pricier than most. In .40 lots of folks go with the Lee U-die undersized sizing die because it delivers good case-neck tension being that the .40 is a straight-walled case and sometimes needs it. FWIW a Lee standard sizing/decap die is like ~$20 For crimp, if you're going to be shooting coated or plated bullets it's best to stick with a regular taper crimp die, and seems just about anybody's will do. I have a Lee, but a Redding, Hornady, Lyman or whatever should all be about equal because you're not really going to be adding a huge amount of crimp (in fact, it's often better to think of the taper crimp die as a "bell removal die" because that's all it should really be doing). You can usually find a 9mm Taper Crimp die for ~$10-15. The Lee Factory Crimp Die (FCD), because you're going to hear about it, kind of requires its own paragraph lol. Lots of guys use the Lee FCD, because it can post-size rounds after seating and sometimes "fix" rounds that might not otherwise pass the case gauge, but, it can be sketchy with most bullet types other than FMJ, especially with coated and plated bullets which are soft on the inside. IMO if you've got everything set up right you shouldn't really need a Lee FCD. I decided early on not to use one because my bullet width (.356) plus 2x the case wall thickness (like .012) equaled .380, and the carbide ring in the bottom of the Lee FCD measured at .377-.378 so I was for sure going to be swaging down my bullets/rounds which messes with accuracy big time. Sure, they'd all pass the gauge probably, but they might also keyhole or make baseball-sized groups instead of golfball-sized groups lol. There are plenty of guys out there who claim their FCD doesn't mess with their bullets, but just because they can't see it leaving a mark doesn't mean it's still not messing with their bullets/rounds, most times it just means it's only squeezing the bullets between where they sit in the brass. IMO an FCD doesn't "fix" anything, it just hides problems. Even without using an FCD, I have only maybe 2-3 rounds per 300 or so that do not perfectly fit in the gauge by a smidge (unless something is really wrong with them*) but those rounds all still plunk in my chamber and work just fine, it's just that the gauge is unforgiving, it's supposed to be. *That's another thing: it's a good idea to invest in a Hundo so you can case gauge all your rounds easily without it taking forever... the Hundo is pretty much always more cruel and discrimintory than any gun's chamber, so if they drop in there they'll work in your gun. Plus, it catches problems and pays for itself; I've caught 3 cases over the last 3000rds I've loaded that were cracked/splitting near their extractor rings, if they'd made it into my guns they probably would've damaged the guns and/or damaged me. They're like $100 which seems kinda expensive for a piece of metal with holes in it, but a single-round case gauge is still like $20 and you'd probably never gauge every round because it would make you crazyy going one at a time lol.

As a fairly new reloader myself, I can totally recommend the XL750. The 750 is plenty of press for most of us and caliber conversions are affordable, it's a good solid machine. If/when you add a Mr Bullet Feeder there's almost no point in getting any more press unless you can afford and are ready to go up to an MK7 Evo. My advice for getting an XL750: Just get the press and case feeder (and caliber conversion stuff if needed) from Dillon, skip the Dillon dies/accessories. The aftermarket offers more/better choices. For example: Inline Fabrication's Ultramount is WAY better than the Dillon strong mount and their Ergo handle is better than the Dillon roller handle too IMO. They're almost the same price as the Dillon stuff, but the Inline Fab stuff is just A LOT better. For dies, the Dillon dies work and are ok, but again, the aftermarket offers more, usually for less. There are a lot of guys out there with Dillon stuff collecting dust on shelf because they just bought the Dillon stuff with their press but ended up going to better other stuff... You don't have to get the Dillon ball-end hex wrench and holder kit, but you will need the ball-end hex wrenches near your press more often than you think, so either get the Dillon kit or plan on picking up an alternative to live arm's reach on your bench. Buy (or start saving for) a Mr. Bullet Feeder, because after getting one you won't know how you lived without one or were loading like a caveman lol.