Will_M
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Everything posted by Will_M
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A friend bought one of the VersaMax competition models with the green receiver. The feed latch is so stiff that the shells will stop dead once the brass on the shell hits the latch. We've relieved the latch some and it helped a tiny bit (maybe not at all) but it's still so much harder to load than any other gun I've tried. I legitimately thought it was broken when we took it out of the box. Does anyone have any idea how to make loading the VersaMax easier? It's not a technique issue, the gun just stops shells dead.
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This was very helpful. I got it fixed last night, thanks.
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Where the heck are the springs for the feed latch supposed to go? I took a friend's gun apart and the springs popped out before I could get a good look at it. I thought they went around the post that the bolt release went in to but it doesn't feel right and the springs fit through the hole in the receiver.
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I'm in. -
What shells are recommended for match use? Specifics, please. Shot size, velocity, brand, etc.
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What's the estimated max range for this match? Is it recommended to have some 69-75gr stuff for some of the targets that don't react as well to 55gr?
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Full length sizing. Die is adjusted according to Dillon instructions. I'm concerned about the consistent scratches on the bullet. Is that normal?
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I'm loading for an AR15. Brass has been trimmed to 1.750". 55gr FMJBT bullet. 2.235" OAL. Stag 3G barrel, Bravo Company Mfg BCG, Palmetto upper receiver. Loaded rounds keep getting stuck in the chamber and require mortaring the rifle to get the loaded round out. All rounds extracted have a similar helical drag mark on the bullet. It's most visible on the round on the left. All rounds pass the case gauge easily. Any ideas why my reloads keep getting stuck in the chamber?
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I agree. I have no problem turning the safety OFF but I want to be damn sure I put it back ON.
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What exactly does C-Rums do and how does it help?
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Is anyone else getting their thumb caught on the lifter? It might be a technique issue but the corner of my thumb where it meets my thumbnail is getting shredded by the fork on the lifter.
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When my local matches start back up I plan to shoot a match with the rifle can and my suppressed 9mm limited gun. Quietest 3 gun match ever. And the fastest since the shot timer mighty not pick up your run. You say that like it's a bad thing.
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When my local matches start back up I plan to shoot a match with the rifle can and my suppressed 9mm limited gun. Quietest 3 gun match ever.
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Did they measure the brake? Am I pushing my luck by having this brake on there or is it likely a non-issue?We are all gun guys. I ask about the comp on my gun, and get a "no problem" before the match. Never had an issue after that. That's my plan. Email the MD's before I sign up for a particular match and let them know. If it's an issue, I'll swap it out. If not I'll continue to run it until it is. I like the ability to mount my can when I'm not shooting a match or don't want to be obnoxiously loud.
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Did they measure the brake? Am I pushing my luck by having this brake on there or is it likely a non-issue?
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Here's a picture of the brake. The actual ported section is well under an inch. The ratcheting portion is 1.1"
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Is the requirement for the diameter and length of a brake/compensator measuring just the ported section? I have a SilencerCo Specwar brake on my rifle currently, but the ratcheted section that my suppressor mounts to Might be over 1" in diameter. I'll know for sure when I get home, but I'd like to know how the measurements are taken. Is it the diameter and length of the brake if it was removed from the gun?
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This'll buff out, right? Never felt it break, the last two primers were just very "mushy" going in. Last one wouldn't seat at all and then I see these massive ductile failures. There right side didn't fare much better.
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Tom will give you "the works" for $325 or so. It's a steal.
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Where specifically is a shotgun's taint?
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Thanks for the compliment. Is there any concern with functionality or reliability when taking the loading port forward? I see you took it basically to the first "E" in STOEGER. That's going to be my indicator.
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Ok thanks.
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I will gladly put my die grinder and dremel work against your file work. You just need to know how to use them..... Your loading port did turn out nice by the way good job. I will post a pic of what Tom is talking about. I watched your video and was definitely impressed with the way yours turned out. Unfortunately I don't have the hand for this delicate of work using a power tool. Files were a way to slow me down. I wish I had your ability with a die grinder. And I've continued bringing the left hand side down further. I'm going to drop the serial number down just a hair more and then polish it up and see how it loads. How does it look so far besides the roughness from the files? I haven't brought the loading port forward at all. How far can I take it? Or should I bother moving it towards the mag tube at all?
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Are you saying put a small chamfer on the magazine tube and blend it to the receiver? I'm trying to figure out where you're saying I should put the cut?
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I was determined to use files only and not butcher it with a dremel. Best advice is to put the shotgun in line with your file strokes. I braced the butt of the gun on my stomach and pushed the files straight out away from me. It made it much easier to keep the cuts level. It took me at least an hour or so of steady filing. The aluminum receiver is actually pretty easy to file. I was just being extra cautious.
