timothy
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Posts posted by timothy
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Well I got notified that they are shipping my order to me. Same original price which is great. I see that Starline updated it's website so that these are now available for order.
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meaning a bullet of smaller diameter than the barrel, would be detrimental to accuracy.
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I went ahead and ordered some AA #7 and some 3N38. Hopefully my experience with them will be like yours ZZT and they will provide better performance than HS6, and at a lower power factor.
ZZT, you mentioned
On 8/10/2022 at 10:19 AM, zzt said:The next thing I would do is slug your barrel. 38S barrels are nominally .356" dia. STI probably used the same blanks for 9mm and 38S, but it pays to check. If your barrel is .356", then .355" bullets are not a good idea. You might even try some 124gr .356" HAPs just for fun.
by any chance do you have any personal experience trying/experimenting with different bullet diameters and all else the same, and reaching any conclusion as to what provided the best accuracy? So for example, if my barrel slugs out at .355, would bullets of .355 or .356 or even .357 diameter be best for accuracy? Certainly I get that a bullet of smaller diameter would be detrimental tot accuracy. -
Thanks for the replies so far.
I'm not likely to switch powders anytime soon as I have over 5 lbs of it now. I was reluctant to try the VV given its price and my perception that it typically is less readily available. Maybe I'll give it a try after my powder supply has dwindled. Mainly I wanted feedback on the 178PF concern. Hopefully more chime in.
ZZT, thanks for the detailed input. One thing you wrote that intrigues me is " If you can't put all the shots into the same hole at 14 yards, or in a 1" circle at 25, something is wrong somewhere....". You can regularly get a 1" or better group at 25 yards with an open gun? Really ? I'm not sure I can get that with a 22 target pistol. If you can then I guess you're right, something is wrong, and I want to fix it. What should I be looking for with the barrel and comp? A buildup in the comp? What else/what other things should I look for?
I am very interested to hear from others what they can get out of their open guns for a group of 5 shots at 25 yds, either offhand or bench (not ransom rest). Most shooters I encounter don't seem to try to establish a group size at this distance, but maybe that observation isn't applicable on this forum. Either way I'd like to hear from anyone that has established a group size at 25 yds, please. What do you get?
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I ordered 1K on May 23 and have not heard anything. I'm hoping that when they do have them they honor the original price. Don't want to wait months for a price that ends up being more than thru a distributor. Maybe someone can speak to this based on their past experience of having a back order fulfilled.
Not sure how as the manufacturer they are unable to give an indication of when they will have it. Perhaps they take orders until they feel it's worth their while to make a run of production. OTOH if that's the case then why would they stop taking back orders?
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Hi, I bought a 38 super STI Trubor (5" barrel open gun with T2 style Compensator; no popple holes) from the original owner earlier this year. It's my first open gun. I have owned an SVI limited 40 that I have reloaded for the past 20 years. In my quest for the right load recipe for the Trubor I looked thru posts on this forum as well as the Jeff Maas .38 Super IPSC Loads List.
I tried many different bullet type/weight vs Powder charge (all HS6 given that this is popular for compensated guns and readily available) to get something that works for that gun, meaning is accurate and minimizes muzzle flip. For reference I have attached PDF of notes, which reflects some of my testing.
So I arrived at the following for a load recipe:
Zero 115 JHP .355 Dia,
Hodgdon HS6 9.5gn,
COL 1.246
This provides a velocity of about 1550FPS which works out to a Power Factor of 178.
I was speaking with a shooting friend today who owns several open guns and he feels that with this recipe/178 PF I am taking a significant chance of cracking the slide within a few years and I should reduce the load.
So here's my question, I am interested to hear any constructive feedback on whether this is likely to happen. I'm reluctant to alter this load absent additional compelling data/input. My sense is that this gun/comp combination requires a high volume of powder to work the comp and my own testing indicates less accuracy/consistency with a smaller powder charge. I also have the impression (from above cited sources) that although 178 is obviously > 165, that it's not out of the stratosphere. Of course I could be wrong and need to keep an open mind. Hence this post. I'm particularly interested to hear from others with the same or similar gun.
Chronodata STI Trubor 38 Super 20220507 and accuracy notes.pdf
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Kevin:
If I understand your April 6th post correctly by "how to adjust the amount of case insertion into station 1" you mean how to adjust how far the case travels into the shellplate right? As opposed to how far the resizing die goes over the case.
If I'm understanding you correctly then I think you should consider adjusting the 3/8" diameter, vertically oriented, black metal rod (plunger) that contacts the black plastic ramp. The ramp I'm referring to is the piece that pushes the shell into station 1. One end of the rod contacts the ramp (which is spring loaded)the other end is threaded and has a nut on it. Adjusting the elevation of the rod adjusts the travel of the black plastic piece (and of the shell). Tighten the nut down after you adjust the rod to hold the adjustment. If I understand Dillon's March 28 post correctly, you should have a primed shell in station 2 when making this adjustment.
I also use a Lee undersized die in station 1 for 40 S&W. I don't have a problem with the amount of case insertion. I think that since the dillon die has more of a radius at the mouth it probably is more forgiving of a shell that is off center relative to the resizing die. But if you tweak the insertion adjustment the lee's smaller radius shouldn't be an issue.
Hope this helps.
By the way have you fixed your problem of the primer being offset relative to the shellplate? I'm still having an issue with it myself.
Regards,
Tim
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Yes the shoulder screw is in the center. I'm not suggesting you torque it down significantly otherwise yes the shellplate won't even rotate from the friction. I'm just saying that I tightened it ever so slightly to affect by a tiny amount the position of the shellplate when it indexed (not so tight to make indexing a problem). Remember also that there is a brass tipped set screw that holds the position of the shoulder screw. You need to loosen it to adjust the screw then re-tighten it after. This shoulder screw adjustment only helped me a little and is not correcting the root cause (whatever the root cause is).
Yes the adjustable stop (probably not the right term) is to the left of the shaft/cam under the shellplate (if you are facing the machine. It is steel, about 3/8" wide, 1/4" thick, 5/8" tall (estimates from memory not actual measurements), if memory serves its tip has a curved profile that mimics the curve of the black plastic cam it contacts.
Anybody else out there experience this problem? If so please enlighten us to the most robust fix or at least your experience trying to correct it.
Regards,
Tim
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I think I have been experiencing the same problem but to a lesser extent. I've loaded around 6000 rounds of 9mm and not had the problem but shortly after starting to reload 40 (all of this also on a 650) I started having the same problem at a rate of about 1 out of 25 rounds.
I can see that the shellplate is slightly too far clockwise (ballpark estimate of .030"). I would end up distorting a lot of primers unless I caught it quick enough. Same problem as you in station 1.
I called Dillon and their input was that perhaps the metal stop that contacts the black plastic cam ramp needed a little bit of adjustment (it's position is adjustable horizontally). The ramp is the part that moves up and down with the ram/main shaft. The metal stop is to the left od the shaft, it's mounted to the frame. Anyways I adjusted the stop but it didn't help me (perhaps it'll work for you though, who knows). It seemed to effect the point in time that the shellplate started to rotate but not where it ended up angularly.
One thing did work slightly for me. I tightened the shellplate shoulder screw to just the exact right amount such that shellplate would come to a stop at a slightly nearer location. It was almost impossible to tweak the shoulder screw to this position. But this is a mickey mouse fix and someday I'll get around to calling Dillon again.
Kevin, what caliber are you having the problem with? Have you / do you have the problem with other calibers? Please let us know if you figure it out as it doesn't take much of a glitch for one's throughput rate to go down fast.
Anybody else out there have any experience with this?
Regards,
Tim
2011 grip safety not working
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
I realize this thread is 8+ years old but am having the same issue and am hoping someone out there can shed some light please. I have a STI Trubor and the grip safety recently stopped working. I took it apart and see that the tab is broken the same as the original poster 3djedi . I believe his gun is also an STI, as is that of peterthefish.
What I don't get is how could this break. I'm concerned that if I replace it that the same thing may happen again.
Can anyone shed some light as to how this part, that seems like it shouldn't be stressed, could break? Anyone have it break and replace it? If so in what gun and replaced with what manufacturer part and how did it fair long term? Anyone recommend a good replacement?
Thanks