kjshum

I've got a 22lb spring main in my 10mm Stock and a 15lb hammer spring and I get primer swipes. Had the same issue with a 18ib main and stock hammer spring. Happens with full house or low power (not FBI) ammo. Soft firing this gun is not!

If Henning is going to make new parts, the roller could be moved the trigger bar and have the flat surface on the plunger head. I think a "C" shaped leaf spring (pivoted on both sides)from the plunger to the trigger bar could also work and would elimate the 2 mating surfaces.

Thanks for the tip guys. I've got an idea for replacing the plunger altogether, will post once I get it drawn up.

As yes, the pin was 'persuaded' out of its channel! I cut off another 1 coil, but I can't detect much difference and am reluctant to cut any more off just in case. If there only was a way to reduce the friction between the shoe/plunger head and the trigger bow. Are you sure it's pinned in? It should be a small rounded metal dowel/pin that locks everything together, but sits loosely in the post. See parts 3.8 through 3.10 on this diagram: http://www.tanfo11.com/limcusHC.pdf Beware the high risk of losing parts when disassembling the plunger, particularly part 3.10.

I've come to the conclusion that the filure to reset/binding problem in my gun (Stock 10mm) is that the factory plunder spring is way too strong for the Henning trigger/Egw sear/Hammer combo. If you relieve some of the pressure by pressing it down a little, you'll find that the trigger bow will easily reset and that the mechanism will be as smooth as can be. So I decided to try cutting off a coil or two off the spring. As the plunger spring is pinned in and the coils are so tight, I had to use a cutting disc on it. Even then it was an awkward diagional cut AND I wasn't able to remove the portion I cut off. I actually cut off 1 1/2 coils, but due to the fact that I couldn't get the excess piece out, the effective shorting was somewhat less. The result is that I do get more reliable resetting now, but the action is still a bit bindy when the gun is not cocked. I think, I might cut off another coil and see what happens. If someone ;p could make an adjustable plunger....... Here is my rendering of what it could look like.

Ground off the high spot at the location circled. Locating high spots is easy, there will be impact spots on both the breech and the chamber face. Also in my case, by pushing in on the muzzle (while action is closed) I could feel main spring pressure. Ie. by pushing on the muzzle, the high spot on the chamber end was actually pushing on the breech and moving the slide minutely back, thus the spring pressure felt. Grinding off a little material at a time, I eventyally managed to get to a point where there was little or no contact.

I'll take the pics and post later today. My Match is exactly the same, even with the rear site all the way up, it's still low. I would recommend though that you loctite your elevation screw once you are all the way up. Mine flew away as I imagine it was too far up and came out of its threads. I have yet to be able to get a replacement elevation screw from EAA and now they are saying I have to send the sight in for service. OK. way cool! Would you mind posting a pic of specifically where you dremeled? With my skills, I'll dremel and my match will then shoot to far left. . . . thanks in advance.

Well I finally fixed the "too low" problem. It seems the chamber surface were the breech contacts wasn't completely perpendiucular. There was a high spot in the 12 o'clock position and resulted in the breech pushing the barrel slightly downward when closed. A few passes of dremmel fixed the spot and instantly the problem was solved! My Match is exactly the same, even with the rear site all the way up, it's still low. I would recommend though that you loctite your elevation screw once you are all the way up. Mine flew away as I imagine it was too far up and came out of its threads. I have yet to be able to get a replacement elevation screw from EAA and now they are saying I have to send the sight in for service.

I've benched it, one hand, two hands, different ammo, different shooter and it is definately shooting low. I've seen a website where the shooter center punched two indentations on the slide at the 8 and 4 o'clock positions below the barrel. I suppose that would work, but I'm looking for a less 'ghetto' solution.

Hi guys, I've got a Stock in 10mm which shoots really low. To get it to hit the bull at 33ft, I've got the rear sight cranked almost all the way up leaving it held in by only 1-1/2 turns of the screw. Since there isn't a bushing, is there another way of tilting the barrel up?