jetofoz

IPSC Standard Division prohibits compensators. A compensated gun ends up in open/modified division.

My Limited (Large Frame) started off as a 38super. I bought a 9mm barrel, drop it in, no worries. Got the 9mm barrel reamed to SIG, drop it in, no worries. I now shoot my limited with 357Sig and 38supercomp just by changing barrel and mags. So in effect, it is like shooting 40cal and 9mm on the same slide. You already have the 9mm barrel. Just go to Henning and grab some 9mm mags, extractor/springs and have a go at it before spending $$$ on a new slide.

http://www.henningshootsguns.com/shop/barrels.html

FYI... You can run a 9mm/38super/40S&W on the same platform. All you need is a barrel change, recoil spring of your choice and appropriate mags for caliber chosen. It will all run on the SAME (large frame) slide/frame/extractor! edited: add 38supercomp too! edited2: use 38super extractor for all the caliber

I also shoot minor loads .38super (135gr LRN @ 970fps) When I started shooting, I tried almost anything on my Limited. From 6lbs to 10lbs Wolff springs, Sprinco with 6-7-8lbs Wolff springs. Now that I'm over it, I settled on 8lbs Wolff spring. I did use Sprinco for over a year and in my opinion, it will be more suitable for major loads.

I am just giving some input about the issue. Have a coke and a smile I agree that we cannot base the design of the new trigger with altered sear. We are on the same page here. What I am pointing out here has got nothing to do with the sear. (My prepped EGW sear IS NOT altered) It's the position of the trigger bar with or without the sear housing. The optimized location/angle of the trigger bar pin hole is where the trigger bar sits when installed without adjusting the pre-travel screw. It should match the trigger bar location of the stock trigger installed with adjusted pre-travel screw against a stock sear. Now this is an option if you want to base it on a factory stock sear or an EGW prepped sear. I would suggest that its based on the latter. As Henning mentioned, the only way to find out is to try.

Awesome work CHA-LEE! The hole have exactly the same distance between the factory and the new trigger as CHA-LEE proved, BUT it doesn't mean it's in the optimum position. As mentioned on my previous post, this just solves half of the problem/issue/bug. If the hole of the trigger bar is moved 0.08" towards the back of the trigger without disturbing the distance to the other hole, this will allow the adjustment of the pre-travel screw further out and pushing the trigger further back without bottoming out the new over-travel design. This picture provided by CHA-LEE and edited by myself shows where the new hole should be. The red mark is where the new hole should be and the black lines are the distance, again which should not be altered. This will then put the trigger bar in the position where it was, before the stock trigger was removed. No disturbance of the trigger bar/plunger/sear = a perfect drop-in trigger! I guess the repositioning of the trigger bar pin hole is more cost effective than getting sets of new springs. This will also eliminate grinding stuff to make the new trigger work. I just hope Henning is willing to try this out. Version 2 flat trigger perhaps? People will ask where did I get the number 0.08" and why move the trigger bar hole that much even if I haven't got a hold of the new trigger? Well, ladies and gents, Jeff686 provided that answer on his previous post. (post#4 of this thread) Jeff686 tackled the problem by adding materials at the end of the trigger bar. So, by moving the trigger bar hole that much, not only it will solve his problem of the bar reaching the sear, it also puts the trigger bar in its original position. It's not spiraling out of control, just my thought about the issue. I also think that repositioning the trigger bar pin hole is an easier solution than grinding, welding, new spring design, etc...

IF the pin hole locations are a direct match from the factory, then we have solved half of the problem already. All we need to do is measure/mark where the trigger bar pin hole sits in the frame. Let me explain... Install the stock trigger and mark the trigger bar pin hole against the frame. Now install the new trigger and see the difference. I am confident that it will look like this. The red circle marks where the stock trigger bar pin hole sits. This explains why the new trigger doesn't work with altered sear leg. It is being pulled away from the sear and if you notice, 0.04" is far enough to do this. The white line indicates that the distance of holes should still be the same.(stock and new) This will give the correct angle and height of the trigger bar. This will keep the sear, trigger bar and plunger perspective the same. As if we never changed the trigger! =) This picture shows where the trigger bar pin hole should be moved... around +/- 0.08" difference. Remember, the white line indicates the factory holes distance. It should never be altered! Again, the best way to measure this is by marking the frame where the original hole sits. Install the new trigger and make sure the trigger has a 90degree angle against the frame/trigger guard. This is preferably done with the new trigger WITHOUT the trigger bar pin hole. Blank or no hole is easier to mark. Once this is all done, I can guarantee that even a 14lbs trigger return spring will be sweet and still give a 100% positive reset.

Just my OWN OPINION. The issue between the trigger bar and plunger. First. Is this because the distance of the holes of the stock trigger and the new trigger different? I am guessing that the new trigger have more distance between the trigger bar pin hole and the trigger frame hole. Can someone actually measure what the difference is? If they are the same distance then it's good. That's one problem solved. Second. The distance of the trigger bar pin hole must be adjusted to the new over travel and trigger return spring while maintaining the distance on the trigger frame hole. By the looks of the new trigger, there is enough space for the trigger bar pin hole to be moved around. In theory, if you get the right distances of the holes, the plunger/trigger bar will not be affected at all. Like any product on the market, there are always bugs that need fixing. I had this experience when the first EGW hammer and sear went out 2 years ago. They have different angles against the stock hammer. I have broken a sear and 2 hammers until I got the 3rd one a perfect fit by grinding some angles.

Great product and nice video. Just a quick question. Are the distance of the holes between trigger bar pin hole and trigger frame pin hole of the new trigger and the stock trigger the same?

I shoot ONLY minor as well on my Limited Custom 38super. Recoil spring - 8lbs from Henning Hammer Spring - 13lbs from Henning No need for a buffer. Other bits: Extra long firing pin from Henning - a must have if you will run a 13lbs hammer spring. Sear and Hammer from Henning - I won't shoot my limited custom without it! I also use Srpinco Guide Rod (just personal preference) Also, if you are planning to run 6lbs recoil spring, ammo and mags must be finely tuned for reliability. I recommend 8lbs for peace of mind (specially for IPSC matches) I only use 6lbs shooting steel. Slide Glide LIGHT for our Limited Custom. I use 125gn - 140gn Lead Round Nose projectiles (stick with round nose!) 900-1000fps I hope this helps. FYI - you can't shoot the Limited Custom in production. Cheers

Old thread... Has anyone actually fitted this on their limited? Does it fit the IPSC box without any mods? Feedback would be great. Cheers