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.308" is the bullet diameter +/- .0005". Land diameter on a .308 barrel is a nominal .300", custom barrels can be .001" tighter. Bore diameter is .308"

Your math on the illustration isn't accurate but that's probably irrelevant to the conversation. Unless you are shooting bench rest you need neck tension. I use .003" measured by the difference of a resized case neck prior to seating a bullet, compared to the neck diameter of the finished round. You need .003" for semi-auto, .002" for a bolt action. You can increase neck tension by spin polishing the expander button in a power drill. I use 400/600 grit wet/dry paper to reduce diameter. 1000/1500 for final polishing. Go slow. Remove only .0005" to no more than .001" of material at a time and retest by resizing some brass. .306" expander ball will usually net an internal diameter of .3055" to .305" because the neck will spring back a little after the ball passes through. You can buy pin gages and I have an assortment for the different calibers I load. A set of .3045", .3050", .3055", .3060", .3065" .3070" or simple .001" increments would allow you to measure actual internal diameter of any resized case (.30 caliber). .305" internal neck diameter works well for me across all of my bolt actions and semi-auto .308's. No crimp is needed or wanted.

Too many things can contribute to a loss of accuracy and a rifle that was shooting under 1/2" groups normally doesn't go belly up in under 200 rounds. Thoroughly clean the barrel. Use a copper fouling remover, Sweets, or something similar and follow the directions. Follow it up with oil and dry patches to stop the chemical reaction. Make sure your scope base, ring screws and action screws are all torqued to spec. I bump the shoulder on my bolt action rifle rounds -.0015" (+/- .0005") from their fired measurement. If you don't full length resize, you should consider it. Without shoulder bump gages (Hornady Lock-N-Load, RCBS micrometer, Mo DeFina micrometer, Sinclair International) it's virtually impossible to know what you are doing. Gages provide measurements that can be repeated. Unless your magazine will allow for long loads, you will be reduced to loading rounds one at a time if you exceed COAL" by a lot. Finding an accurate load that feeds and functions from a magazine is a win/win, allowing you to make quick follow up shots. Consider the following bullets too: Sierra 123 grain Match King Lapua 120 grain Scenar-L Lapua 123 grain Scenar Lapua 136 grain Scenar-L Berger 130 grain (VLD, Match, Hybrid) The lighter bullets will shoot great using Varget and RE-15 saving the H4350 for heavier bullets. www.accurateshooter.com has a lot of load data and conversations in their forum regarding 6.5's of all types.

What's the fix? It appears to have subsided. I know things don't fix themselves. Obviously it's at the ragged edge of some stacking tolerances. I'd like to do whatever is needed.

I think it passed every test. Even the Series 80 firing pin block test which let me know it's a Series 80. I did the click test, the first of the series, at least ten times. Once or twice I thought I heard a very faint click. I don't know if it was the hammer reaching the end of the stroke or not. I tried to repeat the click using both my left then the right ear and could not hear it unless I pulled the hammer all the way to the rear. Something must be wrong though. I can pull the trigger and rack the slide and everything works normally. However, if I pull the trigger hard and hold it through the entire action cycle the hammer will follow the slide down. I'm afraid if this happens when shooting things could get exciting in a hurry. I will go to the range today and load one round at a time and see what happens. Edited to add; I just tried holding the trigger back and racking the slide after doing the safety tests and the trigger is holding now. The safety must be at the very limits or this would not be happening.

I installed a thumb safety on my 1911. It had to be hand fitted and I filed and reassamble until it would barely fit going on and coming off. I made file marks at the same locations as the factory trigger (Taurus PT1911) a little bit at a time until it would work. The original ambidextrious has zero resistance when moved, the detent spring was very weak, and I would accidently place the weapon on safe with my high hold by touching the right side safety. The hammer will not follow the slide down if I pull the trigger normally. If I use excessive force and hold the trigger to the rear through the entire cycle of racking the slide the hammer WILL follow the slide into battery. How can I fix this short of buying another safety?