Steel Shootist

Ever run a magnet over your shot? You might find enough steel shot in it to be concerned about shooting in bbls that aren't recommended shooting steel through. I picked up several hundred pounds of reclaim and have ZERO confidence in it when shooting trap. It has lots of flat spots and dimples. My scores drop noticeably. I save the reclaim shot for when I go out goofing around with a hand clay thrower. Great for that.

Good point! Point taken. Thanks

Thanks you guys! It's great to have a place to ask questions like I did and get some VERY intelligent (and helpful) answers. I have some questions of my own that I will be asking him. Not sure of all the details, but I agree that it probably should be taken to a gunsmith or at the very least disassembled and thoroughly cleaned. I'm sure it will be fine but it deserves some attention before something happens. If I find out more details, I'll write back. I have a variation of this rifle and it makes me more aware of some of the potential problems. Sounds like a great time to take it apart. Thanks again!

I loaded up some moderate .243 loads for myself and a friend. I gave him 20 rounds to take to the range to try out. He shoots a Sako bolt action (I think a Frontier model). He starts loading and shooting them one by one. He told me that the rounds were a little stiff going into the chamber (yes I checked for OAL and resized full length). About the 4th round, he his closing the bolt and as he's closing it and when it's nearly closed, the GUN GOES BANG!!! He ended up shooting the rest of the reloads without another 'incident'. He's a new-ish shooter and was sort of making it sound like he suspected something may have been wrong with my reloads. From everthing I know, this probably had NOTHING to do with the reloads and had EVERYTHING to do with his gun. The primers were all seated and were Winchester primers. So, anyone have any input or things to look for in the future? We are planning on going on a pig hunt with several other guys and he is going to use the same gun and we are both going to use the same ammo. Last thing I want is another AD!! or worse!! Your thoughts and input are appreciated. Thanks!

I gave up on my case gauge for my .38 super (and all my other pistol rounds) quite a while ago. I couldn't get many to fit in the case gauge but nearly ALL fit into the chamber of my gun that I would be shooting them out of. As long as they fit in your chamber, that's what really matters. It's way easier if you take the barrel out of your gun (you take it out to clean it anyway) and just drop them in one at a time. Your case gauge may be a little undersized too...that won't help them fit either. Just my 2 cents....

Sheesh, now you guys have me kind of concerned. I just loaded up 1000 with Federal Small Rifle Match Primers. I know that Federal's Match grade pistol primers are way softer cups than regular Winchester cups. Should I worry about these Match Rifle primers being soft? I've yet to shoot any through my AR...but that will all change next week. I'll try and update with the results.

I only use plated Xtreme Bullets http://www.xtremebullets.com/ because the price is good, the owners are great and they sell a good product. Since changing over to plated from lead, I can easily shoot twice as much and clean my gun half as often as when I shot lead. Also, the smoke from the lead and lube cost me big at a major match when the sun was coming up over the berm--I could not even see the targets after the first two shots. From that point on, it was plated for me.

How much are you guys paying for 6000 or 7000 bullets? How do Montana Gold Bullets stack up? Thanks

It wasn't my first 25 straight, but it was my first at this new club. Sure felt good to be back shooting!!! I did it twice with two different guns that day. I will gladly sacrifice another hat at 50, 75 and 100 straight! Small price to pay for the feeling you get! Rob

I have noticed that nickel plated brass splits much quicker than brass. Nickel is easier to spot in the dirt, but if I were to go out and buy brass(I don't see THAT happening), it wouldn't be nicklel plated...life expectancy just isn't there. In any case (no pun intended), I shoot them 'til they split. They are easy to pick out when you are handling them....they have a 'bell' sound to them when they're split.

I didn't realize I was so cheap until I saw the prices for electric case trimmers. Has anyone ever made an electric case trimmer and have it work? How much did it cost you in materials? Thanks

Well, I'm still not sure what to do. I offered him $150 for 6000 and he's ready to sell. But, not sure if it's worth it at this point.

Anyone ever shot this kind of ammo? I'm possibly buying 6000 rounds of it but know nothing about it. It is .22 LR from Russia. The price is reasonable. Any suggestions? Thanks, Rob

Winchester Brass, Small Pistol Primers/Winchester, the primers are not going into the brass. I was able to remove a couple of them by hand. I don' see anything binding up Check to ensure the right (small) seater is installed and that the primer slide is adjusted to properly to center the cup under the opening in the shell plate as it indexes. From the SDB manual: "If the primer cup is not centered under the shellplate or snaps into place when the handle is raised it may be necessary to adjust the primer slide travel by turning the slide stop adjustment screw (#13961b) in 1/8 turn increments. It is located between the primer slide and the coiled spring (#13798) on the front on the housing. (see pgs 3 & 4.) If all is good there, remove the primer slide and check that the seating stem is within spec. Measuring from the underside of the primer slide to the top of the primer cup it should be 1.410", +/-.005". If it's greater than this, use a clamp or vise to compress spring & reseat the stem and then retighten the set screw. It's been a long time since I reloaded on my SDB but you may want to check the main allen head screw that holds down the shell plate. If that is loose, the primer could have a hard time seating due to the slop in the shell plate. Or, something (obstruction) is preventing the handle from going up all the way and that is the part of the seating process.