cookselk

How sensitive is the Dillon powdercheck system? I am using an RCBS lock-out die on my Hornady LNL AP, while it works I am concerned that its sensitivity using this powder is less than what I would like. I'm loading 4.2 grains and it appears that its range of detection is +/- 2-2.5 grains. While adequate to detect a no-powder or double charge situation, I have had a couple of semi-squib situations where the bullet barely exited the muzzle. I'm not really a fan of Titegroup for this reason but in light of the present component shortage and the fact that I won a 4 lb container last year I will use it until its gone. I prefer bulkier powders. I've seen a couple of videos on you-tube on how to adapt a Dillon powdercheck to the LNL and the idea intrigues me. No need to tell me that I should have gotten the Dillon 650 in the first place guys, the thought did cross my mind several times. The LNL has its issues, and I have loaded on the 650 also, both have their strong points. BTW- I have been the owner of a Dillon 500 (partially upgraded 450) for about 30 years.

Try the Nosler 135 gr. JHP, I load this for a Glock 24C in 40 S&W. I have two loads, 4.7 grs. of Titegroup for a velocity of 960 fps and the other with 6.5 grs. of Power Pistol for about 964 fps. Of course, the PP loading feels heavier than the Titegroup loading. The Titegroup load just trickles out of the Glock and is extremely flat and soft. Both are loaded to 1.130" LOA and use WSP primers. Both of these loads will shoot 2" 10 shot groups from 25 yards from sandbags....if I do my part. Midway has these bullets for $38.99/250 compared to $52/500 for Ranier and $24/100 for Sierra. You probably can find some better deals out there but this will give you an idea of how it compares for price. As always, reference published data before working these loads up.

Thank you for the info Meat. I didn't think about Unique, I have Power Pistol on hand which is about the same burn rate I'll check and see if there is any load data for it. --Just looked, lowest charge appears to be 6.8 for PP and 5.5 for Unique, maybe Unique will be the way to go.-- The report doesn't sound like anything else I shoot, 9, 40, or 45. It has a more throaty deep sound to it. I have noticed that when you load to the light end you get more flash and the odd sound occasionally and I think if I bumped the load up a bit both would go away. I think my load with 231 is in the same ballpark as yours except with the 180, 5.8 vs. 5.3. It is a very pleasant load and very accurate. Loads like this make the 10 downright fun to shoot. I use blue dot for my hunting load and shot a deer with it a couple years ago.

Does anyone have a light load for the 10mm using a 135gr. or 150/155gr. bullet out of a Glock 20. I am currently using 5.8 grs. of 231 and a Ranier 155gr. flat nose bullet. I have a similar load using the 135 Nosler but the muzzle flash is a bit too bright. The 155 load also produces a muzzle flash and an odd report compared to my 45. Do you think this is a problem? I suspect the load is too light. It is however quite accurate. Any other ideas?

These group sizes are the norm for the 24C, I'm sure if it were placed in a machine rest it would produce one ragged hole after another. My old small frame 40 witness limited is hard pressed to do 3-4" groups. Oddly the 3.9 clays load was all over the place with the 24C. The light power pistol loads didn't feel bad at all. My thought was that it would produce more gases and perhaps allow the porting to work better. Haven't shot the different loads side by side to see yet. I think I might try your load of 3.3 grs. of clays, it should be real close to the velocity of the 5.0 grain load of power pistol and might be an interesting comparison.

Trying to develop a minor load for a 40. I shoot both USPSA and GSSF. I think this load will be mostly for GSSF so I might be loading closer to the 125PF threshold than I would for USPSA. These loads are light and in some cases lower than what is published. I did come across an article online at: http://www.handgunsmag.com/2010/09/24/ammunition_40lite_091806/ He had some data using some of my favorite powders, I guess my question is do you think that I might experience problems going so light? One load below resulted in a squib. My RCBS powder lock-out die was installed, in fact I had just reset it after loading the 3.5 clays load. There was enough of a difference to trip it at 3.9 grs. I had some powder in the case, there was unburned powder in the barrel and the bullet exited ( at 132fps according to the chrono). My worry with these light loads is this very situation. Not really sure what happened with the 3.9 clays load, but not really interested in re-living it. Using a ZERO 165 gr. JHP loaded to 1.130" LOA, WSP, mixed brass, fired in a Glock 24C at 25 yards from a sandbag rest. ES= extreme spread, SD=standard deviation Clays 3.5grs 851 fps 34 ES 10 SD 140pf 2.5 " group (8/10) Clays 3.9*grs 921fps 22ES 151.pf 5" 231 4.2 grs 801fps 105ES 31SD 132pf 2.25" (9/10) 231 4.6 grs 880fps 65ES 22SD 145pf 1.6" 231 5.0 grs 953fps 57ES 20SD 157 pf 2.75" power pis.4.6 grs 750fps 45ES 17SD 124pf 1.6" power pis 5.0 grs 815fps 45ES 14SD 135 pf 2 " (9/10, 6 were in less than an inch) power pis 6.2 grs 1009fps 39ES 13SD 166.5pf 2.4" power pis 6.6 grs 1045fps 46ES 15SD 172.4pf 2.6 " (7/10, pulled at least one shot else 6"--my fault) I think I might settle on a load of 4.8-5.0 grs. of power pistol. Shooting off the sandbags and with my aging eyes, I qualify my groups with say 8/10, thinking that I pulled some. The 3.9 clays load was all over and the last power pistol load was recoiling more than I had expected, I pulled at least one shot maybe two. If there is no notation then it is for a 10/10 rd. group. Thanks in advance

I had a 38 super slide crack in the same manner as yours, but it had some 20-25,000 rounds of major through it. Furthermore, in comparing it to my 38 super stock model I noticed that there is a slightly deeper machined "ring" located about where the mouth of the chamber would be, and this is where it cracked. Interestingly, this ring was not present on my stock model but was on the replacement slide.

I need a slide racker for my EAA witness with an adjustable sight cut. Is the sight cut the same as a Bo-Mar? Which ones will fit? I have a Briley mount on the pistol currently but am considering going to a Alchin and C-more set up. The Briley sweeps back far enough to force me to mount my old racker on the right side. It was of the straight variety that mounted in the dovetail. I had it for years but it broke and I have not seen it advertised anywhere and don't even remember who made it. The Briley racker looks like it would work but I don't know if the cut is compatible. thanks

I built a Glock 17 gen 2 with an SJC mount/c-more, lone wolf barrel with a carver 4 port comp. Wished I had gone with the 3 port considering I'm running such light loads but we got it to work reliably. Only issue has been some light primer strikes but making sure that primers are fully seated eliminated that problem. Lowered the ejection port with an angle similar to that which was present on the original slide. Sure seems like a lot to remove but it has held up for many thousands of rounds but I shoot GSSF with it and shoot minor exclusively. I am running a 10 lb. spring and able to shoot very light even sub minor loads in it. Initially after assembly the pistol was very finicky and took several hundred rounds to break in.

Cottontail running left to right with a Stoeger Luger 22, 1 shot at 105 paces (I'm 6'6") so they were long paces. Dad witnessed it. I must confess though, I was waiting for him to stop but he was about to dive behind some brush. Also that same day I missed a bunny at 10 steps.......twice.......while it was still.

I haven't shot production much in several years but I think I will at my next USPSA area match. I was shooting a Glock 34, and still have it but more recently I have been shooting a 17 and feel more confident with a familiar firearm. I have a question regarding the changing out of minor parts, specifically the magazine release and the slide stop on the 17 for Glock OEM parts like that of the 34. I believe that I am ok in doing so but would like to have confirmation. Below is the rule as it is written in the latest USPSA rule book. Exchange of minor EXTERNAL components Sights, firing pins, firing pin retainers, extractors and ejectors MAY be replaced with OEM or aftermarket parts. Any other components which are externally visible may ONLY be replaced with OEM parts which are offered on the specific model of gun or another approved gun from the same manufacturer except as specifically clarified below. Examples of external components which may only be replaced with OEM parts include (but are not limited to): magazine releases, slide stops, thumb safeties and triggers. Special Notes/Clarifications: A factory/OEM magazine release which extends only the length of the magazine release may be used. A magazine release which provides larger surface area (paddles, buttons) may only be used if it is an OEM part available on an approved model of gun. The reason I ask is because I recall several years ago a couple of knowledgeable RO's discussing this subject. I believe they said one item was allowed but not the other. Thanks

Regarding the tipping cases I spoke with Hornady and they suggested that sharp edges on the shellplate may need to be buffed or something and that I should send my shellplate in for warranty. The other thing was to check the channel for the spring retainer, it needs to be fully seated in the grove and the groove needs to be clean. I noticed that Dillon uses the same shellplate with different retaining pins on the 550 for both the 9mm and 40. So I started using my 40 shellplate for the 9mm--no problems since. As for the brass rain I think there may be something to an earlier statement regarding how securely anchored your reloader is. My bench has a top made of 2 3/4" pieces of plywood and a 2x4 laid horizontally beneath. Fairly heavy construction but the press is mounted in the middle of the 50"? span and bounces a little bit during operation. This is very obvious if watching the casefeeder. With the 40 I have never had a brass rain like the few times I've had with the 9mm. The case feeder plate doesn't pick up the brass as efficiently with the 40 as it does with the 9mm and therefore does not overload the funnel at the top should a case not fall exactly as it should. It gives it time to clear itself. Since the tube holds about 30 brass, I turn it on intermitently with the 9mm and I don't have this issue when doing so. I think that as long as the case feeder is bouncing around it will not feed the brass perfectly. In fact the only times (twice) I've had brass feed upside down was in the middle of filling the tube while furiously operating the press. The double feeds in 40 are being caused by the feed tube end, you need a feed tube end with a small opening at the bottom and a large opening at the top to accept the large feed tube. This will also make setup more forgiving. I used a piece of PVC pipe in the bottom of the large feed tube end and it solved this problem although I created a new one where the brass would hang up on the edge of the pvc. Hornady is working on this.

Couuld you expand what you did here. I do not think I follow you. Where did you insert the blue tube and what left over piece. Maybe if you used the names in the parts diagram. Thanks. One problem I had with the case feeder was a (9mm) case would invert before dropping from the black case bowl (part # 1) at the top of the casefeefer into the long plastic tube. I tried adjusting the case feed door (part 37)on the left side of the opening but that did not help. I think the opening they cut at the factory is larger than the picture is in the manual. I ended up taping a half of a 3 x 5 card on the right side of the opening in the Case Bowl that makes the case stay in the Case Feed Wheel (part 54) longer then just drops stright down into the Case Feed Funnel Assmbly (part 8). This works great for me. I inserted the 1/2" blue pvc (pex? it's a tight fit and I sanded the pipe to make it looser) pipe into the "large feed tube end #15" so that it was slightly above the level as the funnel inside and then cut it off flush with the bottom. I then inserted the "large feed tube #13" as normal. Then I dropped the "pivot adapter bushing #51" inside and assembled as normal. I tried using just the plastic tubing without the aluminum #51 but the cases would occasionally snag on the plastic, I did try chamfering the end of the plastic without any success. The above was edited to correct a couple of my errors. As I mentioned I haven't got up and completely running but I can feed the 40 cases through without them snaging one another and tipping over and jamming. I did play some more with the machine and may try to run without the tube in place especially since I noticed that the push rod can be adjusted and will affect how the cases feed. Thanks for the tip above about the case feed wheel.

I just sold a few rifles that I don't shoot anymore to Cabela's. With the proceeds I bought a Glock 17L and received a $150 gift card. So I still had cash and I bought a LNL AP with case feeder to augment my aging (27 yr old Dillon 450). Last year I convinced a friend to buy a 650 rather than the LNL. Currently I am waiting for the necessary parts to set up the LNL for 9mm and 40 so I have not been able to load yet. I have been playing around with adjustments and the machine in general. I am guardedly optomistic about the machine, it has features that I like better than the 650 but some that I don't care for. It was simple to set up and is simpler to change calibers than my 450. I really like the LNL feature-I don't have room for a bunch of toolheads, the powder measure set-up (the bar on the dillon would bind with fine ball powders), the retaining spring (I'll keep an extra or two after reading some posts), and it's simplicity, especially that of the primer slide. My Dillon's biggest issue was primers jamming, or the slide not coming back all the way, etc. I don't care for not being able to confirm the presence of a primer in the LNL slide, and the case feeder's touchiness for dropping 40 cases. I think I solved the problem with the 40 cases in the tube though. I took a piece of blue pvc pipe that is the same inner diameter as the larger upper aluminum tube and inserted it. Then I took the short leftover aluminum funnel piece that is normally used for rifles and dropped it into the long plastic feed tube. Now the cases don't tip over when they drop through or jam. I am a little concerned about the PTX expander in the powder measure whether they will expand the case enough. I only have read about this issue and have not yet received my parts. I may go with the lead PTX funnel once it becomes available. Overall I think I will be pleased with the press, I'll keep you posted.

Are you sure??????I have heard those things go ping when they fall unexpectedly out onto concrete floors when I shot indoor IPSC . Dang, did it again . Oh well I'll just throw another buck into the "magazine vs clip" jar......should have a couple grand saved up so far . I did catch myself the first time I typed clip and then corrected myself but then in the same sentence I did it again. I knew somebody would catch me. Anyway, I did clean the extractor channel before my latest attempt at troubleshooting this thing. I'll focus on the extractor and either try tweeking it or replacing it. Thanks guys.

I am classified in 5 divisions in USPSA with single stack being the only one I lack. I have a Colt LW Commander that every few years I pull out and try to shoot but this time it is giving me fits. I've had the pistol for nearly 30 years and made a few mods to it. A NM bushing to tighten the barrel fit, I think they called it a dwyer group gripper, a shock buff, a long aluminum trigger and a Wilson drop in grip safety. Here's the problem, when firing some "heavier" loads, 5.3 grs. 231 with a 230 FMJ RN it would leave one or two cases per magazine in the chamber without extracting them . Here's the rub, I ran 5 clips of another load through the pistol without a problem using a 4.8 gr 231 load with a 230 Lead RN. Thought the pistol was dirty so I had cleaned it with particular attention to the chamber area and the extractor/slide area. The extractor appeared to be intact and could hold a cartridge in the slide, although I could dislodge it with a light shake. Any ideas guys about getting this gun running, I'm just about ready to shelve it again and go shopping for a new 1911. Believe it or not but amongst several dozen pistols that I have owned over the years this and a para 16-40 are the only two 1911's I've ever owned . Glocks, Witnesses, and Smiths have been my usual thing.

Tried to make it bigger without getting too outragous, I'm still new to this computer stuff.....I'll get my teenager to help next time. Ok.....sorry guys, I guess I don't know how to make it bigger.

Oops forgot to add image

Over the years I've tried to make my own target stands but now that I have a VW and limited space I had to come up with something better. Two pieces of lath, two pieces of pvc (thin wall 160 psi, 1 1/4") 6" long, two 12" spikes. Staple the target to the lath, insert lath into pvc, stand target upright in desired location, insert spikes into pvc and hammer until even with top of pvc. I've tried these in 30+ mph winds and have never had problems with the targets blowing over, although I did break a piece of lath that day. I shoot at a range where the soil is pretty much clay, it may not work so well in sandy soils.

It was mentioned that a lengthened ejector could cure the problem, could it be that the ejector is broken off to some degree? I had a friend who shot a GSSF match and went to the armorer to have him just look over his pistol and he pointed out the ejector was broken and replaced it for him. It was hardly noticable to us rookies. The pistol had been running just fine, but I don't recall the shape of his brass.

Primers look fine, no signs of excessive pressure. I glanced at the Hornady manual and they listed 4.1 grains with their 180gr. lead bullet with a velocity of only 900 fps. That was the reason I was questioning my velocities. I didn't look to see what they were using for a firearm or the length of their barrel but I didn't think that 2" of barrel would gain me 75 fps even if my bullet was 5 grs. lighter.

I am shooting a Glock 24C with a Storm Lake unported 6" barrel. I am casting a 175 gr. Lee TC bullet that seems to cast right at 174-175 grs. Using Titegroup powder I loaded 4.0, 4.2, and 4.4 grs. I used two chrony chronographs set up one behind the other. The one I knew to run about 60 fps. fast, the other I thought was pretty close in agreement when I've gone to the chrono station. My velocities are as follows: 4.0 grs. Titegroup 956 (1016-60) and 956 4.2 grs. 1005 (1065-60) and 1005 4.4 grs. 1050 (1110-60) and 1048 Temp 85F Do these velocities seem right for a 175 gr. bullet and this powder. I was pretty impressed with the consistency of the chronys, the individual velocity readings, once adjusted were within a couple fps. I think I am going to load the 4.2 or maybe a 4.1 grs. load for USPSA L-10 or Limited. My previous load was 4.7grs. Titegroup and a Hornady 180 gr. HAP. I think it was right at 175pf in my Witness. After I had put a seatle slug the recoil felt about the same as my minor load for GSSF. Accuracy with this bullet/powder combination has been excellent. Thanks

Thank you for your replies. To answer some questions, reloads with Winchester or CCI primers. Glockworx recomended either Winchester or Federal. Factory striker. Striker spring does have a 2-3000 rounds on it. I noticed a slight hang up after the striker safety is depressed when the slide is removed from the frame. Also there is a slight hang-up when the striker is fully retracted. When I cleaned it again the hang up with the striker safety disappeared but the other is still there and just ever so slight. My other Glocks don't exhibit this. Incidently I just got back from the range firing some 150-200 rounds through it. No problems.

At the begining of the year I put together an open Glock 17. Although I had some initial problems with it, I think it just needed some breaking in I have been mostly satisfied except one problem. Every few hundred rounds I will get a misfire due to a light primer hit. A couple of weeks ago I competed in a GSSF match and had two misfires which probably cost me a 2-3 place finish. I use the same ammo that I would in my stock pistols producing about 135 pf. The pistol is equipped as follows: SJC C-more mount with C-more LWD barrel and Carver 4 port comp Wolf steel guide rod and 11 or 12 lb. spring Glockworx fulcrum trigger Glockworx competition spring kit Glock 3.5 lb connector Below is a link to our gc's website and a pic of the G17. If you are wondering about the holster, I wanted to shoot open but didn't have the funds to buy a holster at the time so I took an Uncle Mike's holster and went to work with a dremel tool. It holds it securely! http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=4202212&id=157092726011 When a misfire occurs it almost feels like the striker is not impacting with as much force as when I dry fire it. The primer shows a light mark. I cleaned the striker channel but it still happened. If I replace the glockworx striker spring with the glock spring the slide will begin to retract when I pull the trigger--the mainsping is too light at this point. There seemed to be some friction when the striker was moved fore and aft so I replaced the channel liner and spring cups. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I'm thinking about ordering some of the 124 hp from precision delta, does anyone have a picture of what this bullet looks like? Thanks