S&W627shooter

My son will be using the holster in ICORE, and their rule for holsters is: " The heel of the butt of the gun is not allowed below the bottom of the belt." When I get the holster, I''ll have to see if the Safariland hanger is too low or if I have to use the drop offset hanger that comes with the Speed-Beez. Thank you, everyone, for all the good info.

I am planning to use the safariland lowride hanger and a QLS attachment, so I can remove the holster easily.

Awesome. I'll order directly from them. Thank you

Speed Beez on Amazon is $73 plus tax = $78.66 (Here by Feb 24-27) Com-Tac is $78 plus shipping = $75.31 Does anyone know how long Comp-Tac takes to ship?

That is good to know. I’ll call them. Thx

I just checked, and their website does not show any holsters for the 627

My son just started shooting my 627 in ICORE, and I he needs a good kydex holster. I saw the Speed Beez holster on Amazon, and was wondering if anyone had any experience with them? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01JN2NVLK/?coliid=INHNWQ8FX2PGN&colid=U4P8KSA7WLUD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Is there a better option? Thank you, Chris

Cool. I’m going to order two sets of bits. One for the bench and one for the range bag thank you!

Cool. That is perfect. Are they the right profile for the screws? One person gave a negative review that the bits were not hollow ground and would strip the screws

I had to take the side plate off my revolver to replace a broken firing pin at a match the other day, and the only bit in the small Wheeler screwdriver kit in my range bag that would fit the screw bent under pressure. I had to borrow someone's bit. Does anyone know exactly which bit I should get for the side plate screws on a S&W revolver? Thank you, Chris

I used the SDM on my 627 for years, but eventually I had to put a piece of tape on the fiber because it was too bright. It washes out the sharp edges of the sight for distance shooting, like on Far and Near Standards. Now I use a Dawson, and I really like it. The narrower front post gives a little more clearance for better visibility of the target, and it is bright enough for me.

The only downside I can see is using that loading lever like their D60 has. It would be nice if you could use an uplula. Does anyone know what the price will be?

Or, just buy the APEX Tactical hammer and springs kit ($160), and a firing pin ($16); and then put them in yourself. Its not too difficult, you don't have to wait for your gun, and it's satisfying to do your own work! I dropped an APEX hammer into my 929, took out the rebound slide and replaced the spring (with the heavier one in the kit), then slightly polished the rebound slide before I replaced it, and it was a smooth 5# trigger. You could always make the trigger heavier for non-federal primers by tightening the mainspring if needed. https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Category?categoryId=24

One day shoot with a random prize table handed out at registration or at lunch. Short awards at the end.

I put the long one on my 627, and I love it! I do, however, recommend checkering it for a little more grip.

I agree, cutting down Long Colt doesn't achieve much. I know guys who get .38 special cases and cut them down to .9 because the .38 were cheap and plentiful. However, it is much easier to just buy Starline Long Colt, and load with 3.0-3.3 grains of Hodgdon Clays and a 170 grain Billy Bullet.

The Colt cylinder release is just all wrong for competition, but I've shot with guys who used them for Classic Division. Usually it is the skill and training of the shooter that makes the difference, not the equipment.

I have the Weigand sight on my 627, and it is perfect! Back in the day, I mailed my rear sight to Weigand, and they installed the blade and mailed it back to me. Unfortunately, I just saw on their website that they no longer install them. However, they are really nice. They do move when you push down on them, but they spring back into place, and I have never lost my zero.

I tried that technique briefly, but for me, the farther up my finger I placed the trigger, the more tendency I had to pull my shots low left. The front pad is probably the most accurate placement, but for fast double action shooting, first knuckle is the most natural place for me.

Thank you for the info!

I currently have a Harris bipod on my rifle, but there are a few things I don't like. 1. It doesn't pan or tilt, 2. It doesn't have notches in the leg extensions so I have to adjust the legs and then tighten the lock wheel, 3. The legs are difficult to adjust and lock with one hand, and 4. the legs spring inward not outward, so in order to adjust them, I have to pull against the spring tension and then lock the wheel which, as I mentioned, is a pain one handed. I was looking at the UTG Recon 360 as a replacement. I know UTG is not synonymous with quality, but these seem well-made. https://www.opticsplanet.com/leapers-utg-heavy-duty-recon-360-bipod.html?_iv_code=LP-B0-BIPOD-TL-BP03 Does anyone have any experience with these?

That’s clever! I like the simplicity of the design

Very nice! Now I just need a printer. lol

Ok, so here is my temporary fix until I can get a spring clip to replace the tab. I cut out a slot in the tab to allow it to slide out away from the case. I still have to loosen the screw by a half turn, but it does make enough room to remove the case and revoke the primer debris! If I loosen the screw a few more turns, I can life the tab up over the metal channel in which it rides, and rotate it completely out of the way without having to remove the screw completely.

This was solution #2. I was having two problems, 1: the switch housing tube would hold the die up and several bullets would drop at a time. 2: Sometimes the spring would pull the switch housing off the die on the down stroke, and all the bullets would fall out. I needed a way to secure the printed housing to the die as well as add tension so the die would drop only one bullet. I made a collar out of a split 1/2" PVC section so that I could drill a hole in it and thread it for a bolt. The 3D printed plastic was too soft, so the PVC was perfect for threading in a bolt. I drilled a matching hole in the printed switch housing and tightened the bolt against the aluminum die.