S&W627shooter
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Posts posted by S&W627shooter
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I need 5 Sig MPX factory basepads. I am hoping that someone who added +10 basepads to their mags has the factory base pads lying around and would like to get rid of them.
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Thank you for the info!
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Has anyone had experience with the Thrill Gen-2 35-rd MPX magazines? Are they 100% reliable? Does anyone wow if they can accept the Taylor freelance +10 base pads?
Thanks,
CS
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1 hour ago, X5SigChris said:
It looks like you did a really nice job with the cop. I had a really hard time trying to find a magwell for the x compact. Everything I found was for the x carry. The one I did find though says works but I haven’t purchased yet to verify. Link below. Hope it helps.
https://3dprintedgungear.com/product/sig-p320-x-series-compact-magwell-stainless-steel/
I made a terrible first cut with the dremmel. The cutting blade was melting the grip. I smoothed it out with 120 grit sand paper and finished it with 220.
Thank you for the link.
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I recently got an X-Compact P320, but the grip is a little too short for me. I would like to find a mag well for it to add a little more grip for my pinky, but I haven't been able to find one.
So, until then, I decided to modify a spare full-size grip that I had lying around to match the length of the X-Compact slide. I was inspired by a thread that I read earlier on this forum, but I could not find it again to post my results, so I had to start a new one. Sorry for the duplication.
Here are the rough DIY results:
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On 1/9/2022 at 5:49 AM, Toolguy said:
I have always thought it would be better to put the pin at the back and have a setscrew in front. Then it would be much more secure and much easier to change out. Just back out the setscrew, pull one out, put one in, tighten setscrew. I would have low strength Loctite (#222) on the setscrew so it wouldn't work loose. No need for spring and plunger then, either.
That is clever! I bet you could sell some of those--especially if they are cheaper than the LPA front sight. My front sight is so tight I can barely get it out.
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I guess I was using the wrong term. When I think Strong Hand reload, I think of keeping your strong hand on the grip while you use the palm of your weak hand to eject the moonclip and insert another clip. This is what would cause the holes in your weak hand palm.
What I referred to as the Miculek, FBI, or weak hand reload is opening the cylinder and transferring the gun to your weak hand simultaneously, then ejecting the moon with your weak hand thumb and inserting a new moon with your strong hand. This is the position that would cause your weak hand index finger to come in contact with the forcing cone.
I was thinking that the name comes from the hand that is holding the gun, but I see now that it makes more sense to name a reload after the hand that is actually doing the reloading of the cylinder.
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In my 627, I have always used 170 grain bullets with 3.3 grains of Clays in Long Colt brass. It's fairly clean, and there is less muzzle flip with a heavy bullet going more slowly. I also don't clean my gun until the leading around the forcing cone or on the cylinder starts to make it stick. lol
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That takes the "speed" out of speedloader.
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That is an awesome pic from a cool angle! Especially with the backlit smoke!
The guys I know who wear the gloves usually do a "strong hand" reload, and they wear it to protect their weak hand palm when they slap the ejector rod. I have seen a lot of guys get holes punched into their palm from over aggressive ejecting or from trying to remove a sticky moonclip. The other benefit would be to protect against the hot cylinder and especially the forcing cone, but that is only if you perform the "FBI" or "Miculek" or "weak hand" reload.
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I know "drop-in" is a relative term, but I hope that it really does drop in without any fitting.
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On 11/7/2021 at 3:48 AM, DS-10-SPEED said:
I prefer to use something that is harder than lead and softer than the frame to minimize scratching the gun. I make scrapers from spent brass rifle cartridges, I just squash the end flat and file and shape for the intended purpose. I first apply a lead solvent and let it soak a few minutes.
Yes, a smashed .223 case mouth works great for that area! a 30-06 case gives you more of a handle, but I think its a little thicker than the gap between the cone and the back strap.
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I haven't done anything to my Legion trigger, and I don't need it any lighter, but I would definitely appreciate a crisper break and a shorter reset. What kit or trigger should I get for just a crisper break?
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I tried the 17 rd ETS mags in my 320 XCompact the other day, and I got the weirdest stove pipe. Instead of a spent case sticking out, a live round with the tip up to the sky was caught between the slide and the barrel. It happened twice! The returning slide stripped off the round and sent it straight up. It does not happen with the Sig mags.
Also, I found that I had to really press hard to get the mags in because some part of the plastic is rubbing so badly that they don't want to seat.
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Dental picks or an ultrasonic cleaner
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It reminds me of Mark Hartshorne's work from Pinnacle High Performance.
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My 627 "Performance Center" revo leaded up badly all around the cylinder and especially between the top of the forcing cone and the top strap. My gunsmith used a tool to shave off a little of the forcing cone to increase the cylinder gap, and I was disappointed that the face of the cone was not even square with the cylinder until he fixed it. Now it seems to be building up less lead.
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17 hours ago, Sarge said:
BGSL near Lexington is one of the best around.
You can go to uspsa.org and search. It’s pretty easy to find clubs
Thank you! I was at work, and shooting clubs get blocked by the internet filter. I was able to get the IT guy to unblock Enos forums though!
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That sounds awesome. Thank you for the info. I look forward to shooting there.
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I am going to be in Central KY in July, and I would like to find some ranges with USPSA matches. Do you know of any?
Thank you
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In my limited guns, I prefer heavy and slow. I feel a difference in the recoil impulse. A lighter bullet going faster has more muzzle flip. I use a 170 grain bullet in my 627.
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Definitely have a yoke screw or two handy, and replace it before it before the spring inside goes bad. I had to replace mine mid-match, because I was going to replace it before the match and forgot. A lot of unnecessary points on that stage.
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627 because I tried the 929, and it was too much trouble to work up a load, and for some reason, I just didn't like the way it felt in my hand compared to my 627. Maybe it's just what I'm used to. I like having the option of .38 short colt, long colt, special, and .357.
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When my firing pin bushing started to erode in my 627, I had Randy Lee at Apex Tactical press in a new bushing. Better than new!
Thril Gen2 MPX mags?
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
Thank you for the feedback. I plan to shoot the MPX next week at a carbine match.